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  1. 6 points
    Slippery slope. More information than anyone probably wants or cares about. I like weighing and can't fathom doing anything other by weight. Spirits by volume? You are wasting your time and are highly inaccurate. The scale probably doesn't need to be NTEP, but it should be. Non-NTEP scales generally can't be calibrated, and the TTB wants your measuring equipment calibrated. Given this is used for tax determination, it could be arguable that this is a value exchange and NTEP should apply. Dunbar probably has a good handle on this. NTEP scales are typically higher quality than non-NTEP scales. It doesn't mean a non-NTEP scale isn't good, it can be better than an NTEP scale, but generally, NTEP is there for a reason. Generally you don't make a junk NTEP scale, but lots of people make junk non-NTEP scales. Non-NTEP scales are typically sold based on readability - the display accuracy, the number of digits on the scale display. However, you need to realize that showing more numbers on the display doesn't mean the scale is accurate to the digit of the display. This is a massive misconception. Just because the display shows it, don't mean it's so. You could make a 1000 pound scale with a display that reads 999.99 - but it doesn't mean that the scale is accurate to 0.01 pounds. In fact, you have no idea at all if the scale is accurate to that level, because there are no rules to mandate that it is. The numbers after the decimal point could be complete nonsense. You think it's highly accurate because it shows more numbers, but that ain't the case. That's where NTEP comes in. Among other things, NTEP defines the number of "DIVISIONS" that the scale is capable of accurately resolving. Legal for Trade means that the the display accuracy is equal to the accuracy that is defined by the division in one of these classes. NTEP also means that the scale is independently verified to read accurately across a range of voltages, temperatures, and other operating conditions. NTEP CLASS I - 100,000 Divisions and UP (Precision Laboratory Use) NTEP CLASS II - 10,000 to 100,000 Divisions (Lab Use, Precious Metals, etc) NTEP CLASS III - 1,000 to 10,000 Divisions (Commercial legal for trade) Accuracy/Readability = Maximum weight / Divisions So, you can have an NTEP Class 3 scale, 1,000 pounds, with 1,000 divisions. The display should read 0000 (1000/1000 = 1). Nothing after the decimal point. You would assume it is accurate to the pound only. You can also have an NTEP Class 3 scale, 1,000 pounds, with 10,000 divisions. The display should read 0000.0, and the scale will increment in .1 pound steps. 0000.1, 0000.2, 0000.3. You would assume that it is accurate to a tenth of a pound. So what's the difference? The 10,000 division NTEP scale is going to be more expensive than the 1,000 division NTEP scale. What makes scales more expensive than others? Not the total weight capacity, no no no. It's the divisions. The more divisions a scale can accurately measure, the more complex the circuity, the higher tech the load cells, the tighter the manufacturing tolerances, the more substantial the frame needs to be, and the more expensive the scale. That all said, the scale used for a specific operation needs to be suitable for that operation. Lets say you are proofing 50 pounds of 120proof spirit to 80 proof for bottling, that's going to be 28.154 pounds of water for a total final blend volume of 78.154 pounds. If you have a 5000 pound NTEP pallet scale with a 1 pound accuracy, your display weight of 78 pounds is everything from 77.5 pounds to 78.4 pounds. So you add water until your display reads 78 pounds. In proof terms, it means you are anywhere from 79.7 proof to 80.4 proof, you'll have no idea unless you gauge again. If you read 80.4 - you'll need to slowly keep adding water and gauging, over and over, in little steps. A waste of time. If you read 79.7 proof. Sorry to hear it, hope you have more spirit on hand to raise the proof, which you'll need to do slowly, re-mixing and gauging every time. Now, if you had a 150 pound scale with an accuracy of 0.05lb (NTEP Class III - 3000 Divisions, actually LESS ACCURATE THAN THE 5000lb Scale). You would add water to 78.15 pounds. If proof terms, you are going to be better than 79.95 to 80.05. Do you gauge again? Of course you do. But you'll be dead on, no fiddling around with trying to add an unmeasurable amount of water or spirit (proofing by trial and error). I just hope someone bothers to get this far and at least got some bit of useless trivia knowledge out of this. That said, EVERYTHING BY WEIGHT, NO OTHER WEIGH ... err WAY.
  2. 3 points
    Can you tell I like scales yet? Every distillery should have 3 scales. Yes, get out your pocket book, you should have 3 scales: Scale #1 - Sized for the maximum amount of spirit you deal with in Production. Scale #2 - Sized for the maximum amount of spirit you produce in Processing. Scale #3 - Sized to check weight a filled bottle for verifying filling accuracy in Bottling. If you deal with similar weights on a day to day basis in Production and Processing, than the same scale would suffice. But if you are working with totes of GNS in Processing (needing a max capacity of at least 2000lb), and producing 50 pounds of distillate at a time out of your still, you probably want two different scales. What is a good accuracy when dealing with a tote is not a good accuracy when trying to proof 50 pounds of distillate. If you deal with small volumes in production and processing (under 10 wine gallons), keep in mind 19.186 above, this will all but GUARANTEE you need three scales, since you will not find a high capacity scale with enough divisions to accurate read to the hundredth place. Generally, this kind of scale is going to be under 100 pounds maximum capacity. The third scale is for checking your bottle fill accuracy, and it is going to need to be accurate to the gram. We use a 2kg x 1g scale which works perfectly for us (750ml is our largest bottle, and the glass is a little bit over 900 grams), but you are going to need to know your bottle glass weight and volume to determine if 2kg is sufficient or not. You weigh a bottle, tare it, fill it, then check against the table. Allowable fill variation is pretty wide, so 1g accuracy is enough. You can find inexpensive high quality scales for this, and it is significantly easier than attempting to verify bottle fill volumetrically. You can find my bottle verification check weight chart here for 375 and 750ml:
  3. 2 points
    None of the above. Silk is right, testing before permitting is a felony. Assuming you know that, I'd take a serious look at this: https://www.distillery-equipment.com/45 gallon Still.htm Jacketted, modular, and can add an agitator...
  4. 2 points
    While much of what Joseph says is, and always was, true (operating capital management, marketing 101), I don't buy the bubble argument for one second. People have been saying the same thing about craft brewing for 20 years. It's still growing in volume nearly 13% year on year. Spirits are just getting started. Millennials re-wrote the markets for craft beer and wine, and they're about to do the same for spirits. They don't have the age statement bias of their parents. They're not afraid of trying new things (would you or I have ever tried a cinnamon whiskey - bleah!) They also crave experiences. So, putting capital into your location and tasting room may be FAR wiser than into name-brand copper in your stillhouse. There's also the international markets that are clamoring to experience US craft spirits. Know what an ounce of Stranahan's goes for in NL? 25€ The tired old shelf space argument never ceases to crack me up. Do you honestly mean to tell me your local liquor store had 10-12 beer coolers back in the 80s? Liquor stores are in the business of selling booze. If there's a market, THEY'LL MAKE SPACE. There's this absurdly tiny liquor store on my way home from work. Not even 500 sq ft. They are incredibly convenient though. I stopped in looking for my go-to beer (Trumer Pils) about a year ago. Of course they didn't carry it. I just mentioned to the owner that I was looking for Trumer. He said "I'll have it here next Tuesday". Now he didn't know me from Adam, but you know what? He somehow made space. Trumer Pils is always there and I pick up a six every week. 250 types of brown spirits? LOL. Have a look at the wine isle and imagine yourself in THAT market. Oh, and they're thriving. Sure, there will be some craft distillery closures. The days of "if I make it, they will come" are over. For every closure though, there will be 2+ more opening. And some of those will actually have a clue about marketing. FFS, High West just cashed out for $160M, selling whiskey they didn't even make!
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    For most spirits, the small amount of oxygen in the bottle will not have a significant affect on flavor or shelf life of the product. Maybe a nearly empty bottle being regularly reopened can give sufficient oxygen exposure to the remains in the bottle to something like a whiskey to seriously affect flavor, although I think the small drop in proof over time would have a bigger effect. There would be some exceptions for oxygen-sensitive extracts, for example. But most spirits have sufficient amounts of oxidizing organics and dissolved oxygen in them such that the amount of oxygen in the neck at bottling is unlikely to be a significant concern.
  7. 1 point
    I've heard of wineries playing with dry ice for cold soaking whole fruit before crush. Chills the fruit and protects the fruit with CO2 before fermentation starts. Cold soaking pre-fermentation though is typically done primarily for color extraction. http://www.winespectator.com/drvinny/show/id/5337
  8. 1 point
    Moving review from one agency to another, worked for our distillery in a dif way. State Dept of Health got interested in our water usage as hazmat and sent our permit request to the State EPA. State EPA reviewed our processes and commended us on our "Green" stance. We reuse all cooling water indefinitely, we use hot stillage for next mashing while it's hot (saving water and energy), separating solids for animal feed and compost... EPA was happy, recused itself and we had permit in a week.
  9. 1 point
    What is too high? 5%? 10? 15%? We are in a hit humid environment and routinely hit 12-17% loss. Idk about linseed but parafin works pretty good. Without further data I'd have to venture it's better and easier to change your barreling environment than the barrels themselves.
  10. 1 point
    Davis Valley Winery and Distillery. Call Rusty Cox at 757-593-1055. The original number was wrong so I replaced it with the correct number.
  11. 1 point
    Talk with @Mead he may be able to help ya out.
  12. 1 point
    I have a 570 liter electric bain marie still. 27kW and it's heatup time alone is 2 hours, so at 1000L you're looking at closer to 4 hours wasted each work day of just heating--unless you have a ton of heating power available. Also, if you start moving product you'll need to plan on having some very high electric bills. I'd save $500-600 every single month just by upgrading to steam.
  13. 1 point
    You might want to talk to Odin at iStill on his products. They seem to meet your needs. Unfortunately his stills jump from 500 to 2000 liters. https://www.istill.eu/ sales@istillmail.com
  14. 1 point
    1000 liters electric? How much power do you have in your facility? You are well outside the realm of water heater elements and standard 240v 200a service. Heed the warnings, you are being warned for a reason. In 1000l volumes, scorch just one batch a month, and in a year you are halfway in cost to a fit-for-purpose still. When you scorch distillate, it's not a fault, it's garbage - and completely non-recoverable.
  15. 1 point
    We built a stand for one of the boxes shown in the link: http://www.bulkcontainerexpress.com/p/BH574565-HB.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwnubLBRC_ARIsAASsNNmaBQof6bn8QtG51BJG9y2wWPZHL4jsZ79LpTpXVj2e_Cw7d2UqjkEaArw4EALw_wcB We just set the box on the stand above the mill and use the slide that's built into the box for controlling the grain flow. We do 2k lb per batch this way and it works like a charm.
  16. 1 point
    First of all, good luck to you! I can't speak to all of your questions so I'll take a stab at the ones that I have thoughts on. 1) Software - You owe it to yourself to also consider Hoochware as your distillery management solution. Great product, great service, highly recommended. 2) Marketing - We have been using Groupon and have been very satisfied with the results. Most of our tour customers are Groupon voucher holders. We are reaching people outside of our immediate area and most tell us they had not heard of us prior to seeing our deal on Groupon. Our Groupon deal is structured as discount on our tour which includes a cocktail and a tasting. We've found that most tour customers either stick around for another cocktail or take home a bottle or two and/or some merchandise. If you can break even on the tour (after Groupon takes their cut) you will generate a decent amount of revenue on those folks with their after tour purchases. I guess t-shirts or engraved glencairn glasses are the most popular non-booze item but to be honest, the non-booze stuff doesn't really make that much of an impact (at least for us). 3) Hours - our tasting room is open from 11-7 on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays for tastings, bottle sales and cocktails. Since we're at the distillery on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday we open the tasting room from 9-5 but only for bottle sales and tastings. Since we have a couple people there at all times, taking care of a customer doesn't really impact production on M-T-W since we can always keep one person back in the shop - having only your master distiller could present a problem if he/she is being pulled to the front too often. 4) I used a consultant to help me with my DSP application but I did the grunt work and was the only point of contact for the application. That way I had a sounding board for my answers but I was able to be very responsive to the TTB since they were reaching out to me with any issues. Cheers!
  17. 1 point
    Another bump for Dave. He handled our first DSP and will handle our move when we need that done. As far as the state. It all depends. Some let you do stuff ahead of time some don't. Whatever they say goes.
  18. 1 point
    We've build a filter for our neutral spirits which we either make or buy (The Horror!!). Previously we've run it through our column and taken a wee heads & tails cut. We simply don't have that many hours in the day. We had our local metal fab shop make a tote platform; source tote on top, destination tote beneath. Filter setup like this: We have around $700 in stainless triclamp pieces and parts. I've read, researched, and gleaned all info both factual and anecdotal. What I can't exactly determine is: Is the filter bed of sufficient depth (it's 36")? What flow rate should we run at (? Is 12x40 coconut husk based carbon appropriate for this task? TIA!
  19. 1 point
    Here is a TTB video that shows how to figure the weight of solids in 100ml. https://www.ttb.gov/media/2014-09-19-proofing-sec4-mds_CCSub.mp4
  20. 1 point
    You can deyhydrate a sample and weigh the remaining solids if you have a scale that's accurate to milligrams.
  21. 1 point
    @Coriolis what a treat! Thanks for the check in. We most definitely are still pursuing this idea. We've had to "pivot" the technology towards something easier to use and cheaper to make...we just couldn't make the wirelessly powered device cheap enough to scale it. I've got a few still, and they're actually pretty awesome in my carboys, but that's where they do their work nowadays. It's also the reason we have been quiet...we tried rolling out that last version a little over a year ago, ran into numerous problems, and couldn't deliver. It was a humbling experience, to say the very least. That being said, we never stopped (can't stop) and have continued developing and testing a hard-wired device in San Diego that is much more effective (so we're told), is a fraction of the cost, and is made of stainless steel (we heard y'all). It's a bung replacement, fits right into the bung hole. We've got a few in the field already, I'll see if I can get a pic or two. More coming, for sure. Give us a shout if you're interested, we'd love to hear from everyone. Cheers. matt@hertzbier.com
  22. 1 point
    Good evening everyone. Thank you ADI for allowing me to join. I'm really looking forward to meeting people, finding info and asking questions in pursuit of opening a small distillery. Please feel free to reach out if you'd like to connect. Chris
  23. 1 point
    Where are the moderators when you need them.
  24. 1 point
    If you have insecurities with Amazon or eBay you can pay $775 more (plus another $150 for shipping) and purchase it here: https://www.prime-scales.com/product/certified-scale-5000lb-x-1lb-4x4-legal-trade-ntep-floor-scale/ Both units are the same PS-IN202SS: http://www.prime-scales.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/PS-IN202SS_Operators_Manual_EnglishSpanish.pdf My local scale service company did not seem concerned with where I purchases it from the two times they have been out to calibrate it.
  25. 1 point
    That post needs to be pinned to the top of the forums. Thanks for that! Here's the direct link to the post for anyone. http://adiforums.com/index.php?/topic/8376-bottle-filling-calibration/#comment-46887
  26. 1 point
    Call up one of the suggestions above, buy a NTEP scale - not because you need NTEP, but because you want the quality associated with it, and the confidence of knowing you can trust it. If you can spring for it, go 1000lb x 0.2lb - as it will give you a little bit more accuracy when working with smaller volumes. Just keep in mind 19.186 - which means you can't weigh 10 wine gallons or less on the 1000lb x 0.2lb (or 0.5lb) scale. §19.186 Package scales. Proprietors must ensure that scales used to weigh packages are tested at least every 6 months and whenever they are adjusted or repaired. However, if a scale is not used during a 6-month period, it is only necessary to test the scale prior to its next use. Scales used to weigh packages that hold 10 wine gallons or less must indicate weight in ounces or hundredths of a pound. And keep in mind the definition of package: Package. A cask or barrel or similar wooden container, or a drum or similar metal container.
  27. 1 point
    Everything you will end up needing, molasses, grain, barrels, equipment, bottles, all comes freight. What might seem like a short cut now may hinder your ability to even operate at some efficiency. Hard to meet the freight elsewhere when the still is running. Oh right, he's gonna be there between 10-2. Sure. Or u have to spend time moving things again cause you can't get them delivered, not to mention a fork lift here and a fork lift there. Here a fork there a fork everywhere a fu#% f%#k. Oh then when you have to ship something. Like pallets of booze to your distributor. Think it through real good Pretty easy to blow through several pallets of any fermentable in a month. Even at 100 g batches. With all the friggin cleaning that needs to be done, I'm pissed when simple things like a delivery, take all day.
  28. 1 point
    Give me a shout if you need help with anything. We can get you set up with whatever you may need. chris@stilldragon.com
  29. 1 point
    I would just do a keg still and a 4" flue from still dragon. Less than $1500. Plenty big to develop recipes, although as mentioned above illegal. If you go commercial you will need something a lot larger, so buy the big still once. While I know one distiller who started with two 26 gal stills they were both quickly replaced by a 100 gallon.
  30. 1 point
    Modular is a nice way to learn. You can start with pot still distillation - arguable the easiest. Then move on to trays, where now you add the complexity of operating the reflux. I wouldn't ever recommend perf plates for a beginner over bubble caps. Cap trays are much more forgiving and have a wider effective operating range.
  31. 1 point
    Back when i started I looked at both those guys heavily. I ended up buying the mile hi 4" 4 plate column setup but got the boiler controller and some supplies from hillbilly. In the end the all copper setup lost out to the modular mile hi. That all said, had still dragon been going at that point it would have been different. Now, still dragon seems to offer almost everything a fella could want. Two exceptions. First mile hi perf plates for the 4" are superior TO SD perf plates and easily keep up with flow rates on the pro cap SD for vodka purposes. Second, when it came time for a larger boiler, I sourced a custom design from china directly for a fraction of the cost of anything from SD or the others.
  32. 1 point
    Stilldragon - everyone else just copies them. You do realize this is illegal, right? And your screen name appears to be your real name...
  33. 1 point
    @Coriolis I did a quick check, and it appears that dirtcheapbarrels.com as well as oakwoodbarrels.com are registered through the same domain registrar (Domain Trustees UK Limited). So I am guessing there is a very good chance they are one-in-the-same scammer. You did dodge a bullet! Cheers!
  34. 1 point
    I'm sorry Dan. It was late and I completely misunderstood what you wrote and what was going on. I apologize for the misunderstanding.
  35. 1 point
    Posted this two years ago over at Stilldragon. This was the last time I experimented with baking soda for ester hydrolysis. ----------- Ok - I wasted a lot of time and alcohol yesterday running through trials to determine what the appropriate amount of baking soda is. I didn't want to clutter up other threads this is being discussed in. The game plan is to run a set of trials with a number of different ester hydrolysis/acid neutralization approaches. Here's what I got - Day 1 - The Sodium Bicarb Trials First I wanted to understand the pH dynamics of sodium bicarb in a strip: Sodium Bicarb - 2.5 grams per liter (approximately 1 tablespoon per 10 liters stripped wash) is sufficient to neutralize acids out of a typical strip and push the pH near the equivalent of a water saturated solution. Starting pH was 4.3 - by 2.5g/l sodium bicarb this was pushed to pH 8.3. Adding any more than this amount did not push the pH any higher. Repeating the same test with a clean hearts cut (approximating a very clean strip), even less, 1 gram per liter (approximately 1 tablespoon per 25-30 liters of clean stripped wash) was sufficient to push the pH to 8.3 Then I wanted to understand what the upper limit would be, given a higher than typical acid level: Repeated again adding 5g/liter of citric acid to a 50% ethanol solution - to simulate a very high acidity strip - probably unrealistically high, but not quite vinegar (an awful infected run perhaps). pH was 2.6. Even a small amount sodium bicarbonate was enough to turn it into alka-seltzer - with significant co2 production - you would absolutely recognize the amount of fizz. By 5 grams per liter the pH had moved up to approximately 5.1 (one tablespoon per 5 liters of wash). By 10 grams per liter the pH had moved up to 6.2 (1 tablespoon her 2.5 liters of stripped wash) . By this time there was very little citric acid flavor remaining in the sample. By 15 grams per liter the pH had moved up to 6.7 (1 tablespoon per 1.25 liters, by 20 grams per liter (1 tablespoon per 0.75 liters) the pH was up to 7.2 (and tasted very salty). Between 15 and 20 grams per liter I believe I passed the point of saturation, as I was unable to dissolve some of the sodium bicarb and it was settling at the bottom. Realistically, 1 tablespoon per 2.5l is probably the upward max, and only if your strip was awful - or distilling something with very high volatile acidity (faulted wine maybe?). After running these tests, I realized I should have done this with acetic acid, so that I could run each of these through a distillation and organolepically assess the ethyl acetate produced during distillation. I'll try this next time, but I need a balance with a 0.1g precision so I can run smaller trials. Next time. Next, I wanted to understand the time factor, how long did the hydrolysis reaction actually take to complete. To understand the time factor - I distilled an "ester bomb" with the lab still. 500ml (300ml tails, 200ml hearts) - along with (50ml)acetic acid, propionic acid (10ml), lactic acid (10ml), and butyric acid (10ml), sulfuric acid to bring the pH down to about 2.4. Refluxed for one hour. Worked great - took the sickeningly sweet juicy fruit hearts cut (50%) and split it into two containers (250ml). Began adding sodium bicarb to one sample, keeping the other sample untouched for comparison purposes. If bicarb can reduce the esters, I should be able to discern a pretty linear reduction in ester odor in the test sample, no? Tell you what, not much of a difference, it was relatively minor. Ran all the way through 20 grams per liter, and beyond the point at which I could dissolve additional sodium bicarbonate, and the ester odor was nearly as prominent as the control sample. You could very faintly discern the butyric and acetic acid odor at the 2.5g/liter mark (1 tablespoon per 10 liters), but not much change after that. Even past saturation, but the ester odor still overwhelmed all else. I then heated the sample, to test if I could accelerate the reaction with heat, perhaps it was just too slow. During heating I liberated a bit of vapor, which strongly smelled of volatile acids. Hmm, not what I expected. Cooled it down to see if perhaps some time under heat was sufficient to hydrolyze the esters, nope, nearly identical to before. Gave up around 1:30am - let the samples sit overnight. Fast forward to now, roughly 9hr later - little to no change since last night. Now, it could very well be the amount of ester created was far beyond the ability to easily hydrolyze, but not sure that makes any real theoretical sense. Decided to distill the sample this morning rather than letting it sit, I don't believe it would have done much to wait, especially since heating it made little to no difference. Distilled into 4 equal fractions using only minor passive reflux, 3 distilled through and the final being the remaining boiler contents. NOW WE ARE TALKING Heads fraction - still very similar overall odor, however I expected it to come through very strong as it did during the initial esterification - significantly reduced odor. Hearts fraction, ester odor nearly nonexistent, not that I should be surprised, we know this works, I just didn't expect the very significant reduction in esters - especially since the sample going into the distillation was still very, very strong. Tails were similar (I did start with a hearts cut) - No acidic aroma - which is typically of the tails cut during the esterification. Absolutely no ester odor. Remaining boiler contents, shockingly free of acidic odor, as is VERY common during the esterification process. Absolutely no ester odor. Need to run a few more trials, since what went into the final distillation test here was a sample with excess bicarb - past the point of dissolution. I'd like to try this with significantly less. DAY 1 CONCLUSION - I strongly feel that the 1-2.5g/l amount is more than sufficient to provide for ester reduction in low wines (this is 1 tablespoon per 10 liters to 1 tablespoon per 30 liters). I do not feel that any waiting time, past the point of dissolving the bicarb in low wines, is necessary at all - the reaction was almost nonexistent cold - 9 hours no change - but clearly takes place rapidly during distillation. For the average distiller, plain old baking soda is going to be hard to beat - really, it works that well.
  36. 1 point
    buy the flavoring and be done. don't be a super hero..... make money, don't waste time.
  37. 1 point
    I have seen the same thing happen. That thick card stock is not good on round bottles.
  38. 1 point
    Customs bond is $259/year, glass bottles are duty free under hts 7010.90.5019 .
  39. 1 point
    Yes, we make custom molds for $10K with MOQ's of 5,000. No strings attached. Mexico is covered by NAFTA, so there are no duties to worry about, just freight. We currently have multiple projects in Hawaii. I bet I even have some freight estimates I can find. At 5,000 run quantities we are in the mid $2 range depending upon design. Do you label during fill, or should we also look at artwork and quote decoration? Once we have the design and can create a packaging specification, then pallet configuration, we can figure out how to optimize the container. A 750ml in a 12 pack reshipper would be about 15,000 in a full 40 foot shipping container, so 5,000 means we might want to look at a 20 foot container rate, plus upping the order size a bit to max out the 20 foot. Very close to our factory is also the Stopper supplier, TAPI. Maybe we can consolidate with them to save costs too. I am sure they can bring their corks to us before we seal the container. I am a firm believer in sealed containers door to door. When is a good time to speak? Brooke 860-350-5485
  40. 1 point
    Something like this useful for anyone? 750ml_Bottle_Check_Weight.pdf 375ml_Bottle_Check_Weight.pdf
  41. 1 point
    i may be totally wrong but is the angel share not made up of higher more volatile ,sharper tasting alcohols thus giving the aged spirit a smoother more palatable spirit . personally if i was seeing a very high rate of angel share i would first look closely at my cuts . as far as linseed oil is concerned i would look at barrel wax to seal a barrel before a oil product that may soak thru into me spirit . in my mind removing the angel share is the only real scientific reason for ageing in a barrel compared to ageing in a stainless vessel with oak chips , but this is only my opinion please dont send the coopers union to break my legs for mentioning oak chips lol ... and speaking of coopers you may be suffering from jus poorly made barrels made out of poor choice of wood grain . we had purchased some used wine barrels half of them had the usual stains and scaring the others were totally red from the wine inside soaking thru . i figured one was used for different wines but at a closer look both had identical info on them from the winery, however they were made by different cooperage's so my conclusion is they were made out of different quality of oak . allowing for different amounts of the red wine to soak thru ... that my guess , but there some very talented coopers on this forum that hopefully chime in and set me thinking straight ...
  42. 1 point
    If you are interested in gin, you may enjoy this thread: As for gin making and using gns, a simple potstill is just awesome. Regards, Odin.
  43. 1 point
    And this is exactly the reason that Jim Beam is paying Mila Kunis millions of dollars a year.
  44. 1 point
    Hi All Any suggestions of websites that list used commercial stills and relevant equipment? I know about the ADI peer to peer section on this forum , but wanted to know if there are any other websites that list similar items? Thanks
  45. 1 point
    Thanks HB. You are going to be somewhat put off when I tell you that it was bought about 100 miles or so away from you and I had it shipped out here.
  46. 1 point
    Thanks Pete! For the feedback and the kudo's. I'll make some more books. On gin and on rum and on still design. I'll try to do one every quarter. Next one to be released by February. Hi Tom, hmmm ... to clarify: if you consume workers during the distillation process, please make sure you cut out their heads and tails! Regards, Odin.
  47. 1 point
    Hmmm. I wonder what you are doing at fermentation. What are you fermenting? Molasses, what grade? Panela? Cane sugar? What temps are you fermenting at? Do you use nutrients? These all have an effect on flavor. Lower grades of molasses can give bitter off flavors. Do you strip first or do a single run? How much are you collecting for heads? My rum is sweet and with a slight fruit finish. I cut the heads deep, and the tails very early to keep it very clean, so to me your cuts sound about right for the tails.
  48. 1 point
    How about a little Monday photo diversion... I was lucky enough to get out on the river some over the last month, Pearl checking out... The Bald Eagle that picked this fish out of the river right next to us! I went to Paonia and picked some fresh organic cascade hops a few weeks ago for a couple of fun projects that I am working on! OSHA approved? We finally got to the point where self distribution was to much so this month we officially have a Colorado Distributor! Enjoy the end of summer! Cheers, P.T.
  49. 1 point
    sadly the truth of the matter is that science is still chasing after tradition and trying to understand it all. Flavor chemistry is very complicated. The involved aromatic compounds will react with each other at each step of production and therefore they all will impact the final aroma and taste created. if you know the chemical structure of the concerned compounds you can see what fraction will separate from ethanol (basically your heart) more easily. basically figure out your cuts according to your equipment parameters. More complex flavors can be created if you keep larger cuts with less "purity" but that doesn't necessarily mean you get the flavors you want... fermentation and treatments in fermentation itself will have a big contributing factor as well. There is just so many factors to think of...so yia in the end you need to just developed a style and go with it. There is also treatments you can do afterwards (like soaking a small amount of fresh fruit in the liquor to extract the fresh completely un-reacted aroma compounds from there. More research is needed but well quite frankly analytically equipment is very expensive and flavor compounds come in very minute concentrations so detecting them is extremely hard, not to mention being able to correlate what compound causes what fraction of perceived flavor since flavor perception does not necessarily equal to chemical presence in solution... here is some links to articles.. but no one (that I know of) really has a clear cut answer to all this (I wish I could attache the actual files, I get them through school... its amazing how expensive articles can be...erg free knowledge is key to advancement) http://pubs.acs.org/doi/full/10.1021/jf047788f http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1745-4530.2005.00377.x/abstract http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12517106 http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1745-4530.2008.00251.x/abstract http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1745-4530.2005.00377.x/abstract
  50. 1 point
    Folks: Sorry about the odd spacing in the post above, evidently this forum does not react to standard formatting attempts! Eric Watson President AlBevCon, LLC