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  1. 6 points
    Slippery slope. More information than anyone probably wants or cares about. I like weighing and can't fathom doing anything other by weight. Spirits by volume? You are wasting your time and are highly inaccurate. The scale probably doesn't need to be NTEP, but it should be. Non-NTEP scales generally can't be calibrated, and the TTB wants your measuring equipment calibrated. Given this is used for tax determination, it could be arguable that this is a value exchange and NTEP should apply. Dunbar probably has a good handle on this. NTEP scales are typically higher quality than non-NTEP scales. It doesn't mean a non-NTEP scale isn't good, it can be better than an NTEP scale, but generally, NTEP is there for a reason. Generally you don't make a junk NTEP scale, but lots of people make junk non-NTEP scales. Non-NTEP scales are typically sold based on readability - the display accuracy, the number of digits on the scale display. However, you need to realize that showing more numbers on the display doesn't mean the scale is accurate to the digit of the display. This is a massive misconception. Just because the display shows it, don't mean it's so. You could make a 1000 pound scale with a display that reads 999.99 - but it doesn't mean that the scale is accurate to 0.01 pounds. In fact, you have no idea at all if the scale is accurate to that level, because there are no rules to mandate that it is. The numbers after the decimal point could be complete nonsense. You think it's highly accurate because it shows more numbers, but that ain't the case. That's where NTEP comes in. Among other things, NTEP defines the number of "DIVISIONS" that the scale is capable of accurately resolving. Legal for Trade means that the the display accuracy is equal to the accuracy that is defined by the division in one of these classes. NTEP also means that the scale is independently verified to read accurately across a range of voltages, temperatures, and other operating conditions. NTEP CLASS I - 100,000 Divisions and UP (Precision Laboratory Use) NTEP CLASS II - 10,000 to 100,000 Divisions (Lab Use, Precious Metals, etc) NTEP CLASS III - 1,000 to 10,000 Divisions (Commercial legal for trade) Accuracy/Readability = Maximum weight / Divisions So, you can have an NTEP Class 3 scale, 1,000 pounds, with 1,000 divisions. The display should read 0000 (1000/1000 = 1). Nothing after the decimal point. You would assume it is accurate to the pound only. You can also have an NTEP Class 3 scale, 1,000 pounds, with 10,000 divisions. The display should read 0000.0, and the scale will increment in .1 pound steps. 0000.1, 0000.2, 0000.3. You would assume that it is accurate to a tenth of a pound. So what's the difference? The 10,000 division NTEP scale is going to be more expensive than the 1,000 division NTEP scale. What makes scales more expensive than others? Not the total weight capacity, no no no. It's the divisions. The more divisions a scale can accurately measure, the more complex the circuity, the higher tech the load cells, the tighter the manufacturing tolerances, the more substantial the frame needs to be, and the more expensive the scale. That all said, the scale used for a specific operation needs to be suitable for that operation. Lets say you are proofing 50 pounds of 120proof spirit to 80 proof for bottling, that's going to be 28.154 pounds of water for a total final blend volume of 78.154 pounds. If you have a 5000 pound NTEP pallet scale with a 1 pound accuracy, your display weight of 78 pounds is everything from 77.5 pounds to 78.4 pounds. So you add water until your display reads 78 pounds. In proof terms, it means you are anywhere from 79.7 proof to 80.4 proof, you'll have no idea unless you gauge again. If you read 80.4 - you'll need to slowly keep adding water and gauging, over and over, in little steps. A waste of time. If you read 79.7 proof. Sorry to hear it, hope you have more spirit on hand to raise the proof, which you'll need to do slowly, re-mixing and gauging every time. Now, if you had a 150 pound scale with an accuracy of 0.05lb (NTEP Class III - 3000 Divisions, actually LESS ACCURATE THAN THE 5000lb Scale). You would add water to 78.15 pounds. If proof terms, you are going to be better than 79.95 to 80.05. Do you gauge again? Of course you do. But you'll be dead on, no fiddling around with trying to add an unmeasurable amount of water or spirit (proofing by trial and error). I just hope someone bothers to get this far and at least got some bit of useless trivia knowledge out of this. That said, EVERYTHING BY WEIGHT, NO OTHER WEIGH ... err WAY.
  2. 3 points
    Can you tell I like scales yet? Every distillery should have 3 scales. Yes, get out your pocket book, you should have 3 scales: Scale #1 - Sized for the maximum amount of spirit you deal with in Production. Scale #2 - Sized for the maximum amount of spirit you produce in Processing. Scale #3 - Sized to check weight a filled bottle for verifying filling accuracy in Bottling. If you deal with similar weights on a day to day basis in Production and Processing, than the same scale would suffice. But if you are working with totes of GNS in Processing (needing a max capacity of at least 2000lb), and producing 50 pounds of distillate at a time out of your still, you probably want two different scales. What is a good accuracy when dealing with a tote is not a good accuracy when trying to proof 50 pounds of distillate. If you deal with small volumes in production and processing (under 10 wine gallons), keep in mind 19.186 above, this will all but GUARANTEE you need three scales, since you will not find a high capacity scale with enough divisions to accurate read to the hundredth place. Generally, this kind of scale is going to be under 100 pounds maximum capacity. The third scale is for checking your bottle fill accuracy, and it is going to need to be accurate to the gram. We use a 2kg x 1g scale which works perfectly for us (750ml is our largest bottle, and the glass is a little bit over 900 grams), but you are going to need to know your bottle glass weight and volume to determine if 2kg is sufficient or not. You weigh a bottle, tare it, fill it, then check against the table. Allowable fill variation is pretty wide, so 1g accuracy is enough. You can find inexpensive high quality scales for this, and it is significantly easier than attempting to verify bottle fill volumetrically. You can find my bottle verification check weight chart here for 375 and 750ml:
  3. 2 points
    While much of what Joseph says is, and always was, true (operating capital management, marketing 101), I don't buy the bubble argument for one second. People have been saying the same thing about craft brewing for 20 years. It's still growing in volume nearly 13% year on year. Spirits are just getting started. Millennials re-wrote the markets for craft beer and wine, and they're about to do the same for spirits. They don't have the age statement bias of their parents. They're not afraid of trying new things (would you or I have ever tried a cinnamon whiskey - bleah!) They also crave experiences. So, putting capital into your location and tasting room may be FAR wiser than into name-brand copper in your stillhouse. There's also the international markets that are clamoring to experience US craft spirits. Know what an ounce of Stranahan's goes for in NL? 25€ The tired old shelf space argument never ceases to crack me up. Do you honestly mean to tell me your local liquor store had 10-12 beer coolers back in the 80s? Liquor stores are in the business of selling booze. If there's a market, THEY'LL MAKE SPACE. There's this absurdly tiny liquor store on my way home from work. Not even 500 sq ft. They are incredibly convenient though. I stopped in looking for my go-to beer (Trumer Pils) about a year ago. Of course they didn't carry it. I just mentioned to the owner that I was looking for Trumer. He said "I'll have it here next Tuesday". Now he didn't know me from Adam, but you know what? He somehow made space. Trumer Pils is always there and I pick up a six every week. 250 types of brown spirits? LOL. Have a look at the wine isle and imagine yourself in THAT market. Oh, and they're thriving. Sure, there will be some craft distillery closures. The days of "if I make it, they will come" are over. For every closure though, there will be 2+ more opening. And some of those will actually have a clue about marketing. FFS, High West just cashed out for $160M, selling whiskey they didn't even make!
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    For most spirits, the small amount of oxygen in the bottle will not have a significant affect on flavor or shelf life of the product. Maybe a nearly empty bottle being regularly reopened can give sufficient oxygen exposure to the remains in the bottle to something like a whiskey to seriously affect flavor, although I think the small drop in proof over time would have a bigger effect. There would be some exceptions for oxygen-sensitive extracts, for example. But most spirits have sufficient amounts of oxidizing organics and dissolved oxygen in them such that the amount of oxygen in the neck at bottling is unlikely to be a significant concern.
  6. 1 point
    I've heard of wineries playing with dry ice for cold soaking whole fruit before crush. Chills the fruit and protects the fruit with CO2 before fermentation starts. Cold soaking pre-fermentation though is typically done primarily for color extraction. http://www.winespectator.com/drvinny/show/id/5337
  7. 1 point
    Moving review from one agency to another, worked for our distillery in a dif way. State Dept of Health got interested in our water usage as hazmat and sent our permit request to the State EPA. State EPA reviewed our processes and commended us on our "Green" stance. We reuse all cooling water indefinitely, we use hot stillage for next mashing while it's hot (saving water and energy), separating solids for animal feed and compost... EPA was happy, recused itself and we had permit in a week.
  8. 1 point
    What is too high? 5%? 10? 15%? We are in a hit humid environment and routinely hit 12-17% loss. Idk about linseed but parafin works pretty good. Without further data I'd have to venture it's better and easier to change your barreling environment than the barrels themselves.
  9. 1 point
    Davis Valley Winery and Distillery. Call Rusty Cox at 757-593-1055. The original number was wrong so I replaced it with the correct number.
  10. 1 point
    Talk with @Mead he may be able to help ya out.
  11. 1 point
    NO13 distilling, We can supply you with a single wall 200 gallon operating capacity (230 gallon total capacity) electric stripping still, for off of the grain distillation. Our mirror polished, ultra low watt density heating elements work very well, with off the grain mashes, without the danger of scorching. The price point on these stills is absolutely unbelievable at only $9,855.00. This price is for a turn key system with the control panel and complete heating system. If you are operating from single phase 240vac the 44Kw heating system will draw 184 amps at 240v single phase. If you have 240vac 3 phase then you will only draw 106 amps. At 480v 3 phase you will only draw 53 amps. We can build the heating system in any of the given phases and voltages for the price given above. Our heating systems meet the requirements for class 1 division 2 hazardous environments. We also have Baine Marie stills that just cost a few thousand more in this same size. We can build you a single wall 1000 liter operating capacity still for a couple of thousand more. We size our electrical systems so that our direct fire and bain marie electric stills reach operating temp in 1.5hrs to 2hrs. Our steam fired stills reach operating temp in .5 hr to 1 hr. You can save yourself a lot of money in the short run starting with an electrically fired still. A Rite or other good, industrial, low pressure steam boiler will cost you $30,000 to $50,000 including installation, for this size still. The low pressure steam boiler will pay for itself compared to electric, but it would take several years for it to do so. Also some people cannot afford the up front cost of a low pressure steam boiler. We have equipment in well over 200 distilleries in the US. Whether you are starting with a very tiny equipment budget, or a very large equipment budget, we have the safe, high quality, beautiful, equipment, that you need. paul@distillery-equipment.com 417-778-6100 below are some links to a couple of our our web sites, but not all equipment is listed on the sites. http://distillery-equipment.com http://moonshine-stills.com
  12. 1 point
    I have a 570 liter electric bain marie still. 27kW and it's heatup time alone is 2 hours, so at 1000L you're looking at closer to 4 hours wasted each work day of just heating--unless you have a ton of heating power available. Also, if you start moving product you'll need to plan on having some very high electric bills. I'd save $500-600 every single month just by upgrading to steam.
  13. 1 point
    You might want to talk to Odin at iStill on his products. They seem to meet your needs. Unfortunately his stills jump from 500 to 2000 liters. https://www.istill.eu/ sales@istillmail.com
  14. 1 point
    1000 liters electric? How much power do you have in your facility? You are well outside the realm of water heater elements and standard 240v 200a service. Heed the warnings, you are being warned for a reason. In 1000l volumes, scorch just one batch a month, and in a year you are halfway in cost to a fit-for-purpose still. When you scorch distillate, it's not a fault, it's garbage - and completely non-recoverable.
  15. 1 point
    We built a stand for one of the boxes shown in the link: http://www.bulkcontainerexpress.com/p/BH574565-HB.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwnubLBRC_ARIsAASsNNmaBQof6bn8QtG51BJG9y2wWPZHL4jsZ79LpTpXVj2e_Cw7d2UqjkEaArw4EALw_wcB We just set the box on the stand above the mill and use the slide that's built into the box for controlling the grain flow. We do 2k lb per batch this way and it works like a charm.
  16. 1 point
    First of all, good luck to you! I can't speak to all of your questions so I'll take a stab at the ones that I have thoughts on. 1) Software - You owe it to yourself to also consider Hoochware as your distillery management solution. Great product, great service, highly recommended. 2) Marketing - We have been using Groupon and have been very satisfied with the results. Most of our tour customers are Groupon voucher holders. We are reaching people outside of our immediate area and most tell us they had not heard of us prior to seeing our deal on Groupon. Our Groupon deal is structured as discount on our tour which includes a cocktail and a tasting. We've found that most tour customers either stick around for another cocktail or take home a bottle or two and/or some merchandise. If you can break even on the tour (after Groupon takes their cut) you will generate a decent amount of revenue on those folks with their after tour purchases. I guess t-shirts or engraved glencairn glasses are the most popular non-booze item but to be honest, the non-booze stuff doesn't really make that much of an impact (at least for us). 3) Hours - our tasting room is open from 11-7 on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays for tastings, bottle sales and cocktails. Since we're at the distillery on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday we open the tasting room from 9-5 but only for bottle sales and tastings. Since we have a couple people there at all times, taking care of a customer doesn't really impact production on M-T-W since we can always keep one person back in the shop - having only your master distiller could present a problem if he/she is being pulled to the front too often. 4) I used a consultant to help me with my DSP application but I did the grunt work and was the only point of contact for the application. That way I had a sounding board for my answers but I was able to be very responsive to the TTB since they were reaching out to me with any issues. Cheers!
  17. 1 point
    Another bump for Dave. He handled our first DSP and will handle our move when we need that done. As far as the state. It all depends. Some let you do stuff ahead of time some don't. Whatever they say goes.
  18. 1 point
    Dave Dunbar makes it very easy on you to get you your permit. Worth every penny he charges. Nice guy too.
  19. 1 point
    We've build a filter for our neutral spirits which we either make or buy (The Horror!!). Previously we've run it through our column and taken a wee heads & tails cut. We simply don't have that many hours in the day. We had our local metal fab shop make a tote platform; source tote on top, destination tote beneath. Filter setup like this: We have around $700 in stainless triclamp pieces and parts. I've read, researched, and gleaned all info both factual and anecdotal. What I can't exactly determine is: Is the filter bed of sufficient depth (it's 36")? What flow rate should we run at (? Is 12x40 coconut husk based carbon appropriate for this task? TIA!
  20. 1 point
    Here is a TTB video that shows how to figure the weight of solids in 100ml. https://www.ttb.gov/media/2014-09-19-proofing-sec4-mds_CCSub.mp4
  21. 1 point
    You can deyhydrate a sample and weigh the remaining solids if you have a scale that's accurate to milligrams.
  22. 1 point
    @Coriolis what a treat! Thanks for the check in. We most definitely are still pursuing this idea. We've had to "pivot" the technology towards something easier to use and cheaper to make...we just couldn't make the wirelessly powered device cheap enough to scale it. I've got a few still, and they're actually pretty awesome in my carboys, but that's where they do their work nowadays. It's also the reason we have been quiet...we tried rolling out that last version a little over a year ago, ran into numerous problems, and couldn't deliver. It was a humbling experience, to say the very least. That being said, we never stopped (can't stop) and have continued developing and testing a hard-wired device in San Diego that is much more effective (so we're told), is a fraction of the cost, and is made of stainless steel (we heard y'all). It's a bung replacement, fits right into the bung hole. We've got a few in the field already, I'll see if I can get a pic or two. More coming, for sure. Give us a shout if you're interested, we'd love to hear from everyone. Cheers. matt@hertzbier.com
  23. 1 point
    Very interesting find here. Some good points and I would have to agree with the side that says there is plenty of room for growth. The way I see it, is this is a changing industry as growth continues. No offense, but if you are sing an end near, then you have already given up. I get it, people are afraid of change, but change is constant and an opportunity to do things different with added knowledge. Time for people to embrace change and evolve with the business. The same thing happened in the craft beer segment and that is exactly why I am here. Rather than opening another brewery and trying to adapt with the saturation I saw a chance to get into and industry that is years behind craft beer. Most distilleries before me have focused on the mass production and distribution model. I have decided to follow the craft beer model (as mentioned before) and go with a tasting room forward and innovative model. Were are slated to open by the end of the year and have a 2500 sqft tasting room with another 3000sqft outdoor "drink garden". Our production will be based on laughter with clean/closed fermentation and 1 stripping still and 2 spirits stills, one for botanical and one for flavor positive starches. We will produce about 30 different labels a year, some seasonal and one-offs. All small bath on a 10bbl brewhouse yielding about 60 gallons per batch. Intentions are to sell as much in-house and whatever is left over to liquor stores. Rather than trying to flood all liquor stores we will have a product that will only be on certain liquor store shelf's who are brand loyal ensuring that our product has proper pull-through. One comment I found interesting was the 1000g for beer at $8 a glass. In my area its more like $7 a glass, but non the less that is about $56,000 on a 1000g batch. On the same 1000g system with a 10% yield you get $170 $68,000 assuming you sell a 1.5 oz shot for $8. Now get your yields up to 20% and sell your drink for $10 (comps in my area) you get $170k. Sounds pretty good, right. I might be a little ambitious, but I've been in the beer industry long enough to know that if you work hard and produce a quality product for a local market building a loyal brand all while being innovative, then you will be successful. I am not afraid one bit at all and I am excited to be a part of the upswing of a budding industry.
  24. 1 point
    Where are the moderators when you need them.
  25. 1 point
    If you have insecurities with Amazon or eBay you can pay $775 more (plus another $150 for shipping) and purchase it here: https://www.prime-scales.com/product/certified-scale-5000lb-x-1lb-4x4-legal-trade-ntep-floor-scale/ Both units are the same PS-IN202SS: http://www.prime-scales.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/PS-IN202SS_Operators_Manual_EnglishSpanish.pdf My local scale service company did not seem concerned with where I purchases it from the two times they have been out to calibrate it.
  26. 1 point
    That post needs to be pinned to the top of the forums. Thanks for that! Here's the direct link to the post for anyone. http://adiforums.com/index.php?/topic/8376-bottle-filling-calibration/#comment-46887
  27. 1 point
    Call up one of the suggestions above, buy a NTEP scale - not because you need NTEP, but because you want the quality associated with it, and the confidence of knowing you can trust it. If you can spring for it, go 1000lb x 0.2lb - as it will give you a little bit more accuracy when working with smaller volumes. Just keep in mind 19.186 - which means you can't weigh 10 wine gallons or less on the 1000lb x 0.2lb (or 0.5lb) scale. §19.186 Package scales. Proprietors must ensure that scales used to weigh packages are tested at least every 6 months and whenever they are adjusted or repaired. However, if a scale is not used during a 6-month period, it is only necessary to test the scale prior to its next use. Scales used to weigh packages that hold 10 wine gallons or less must indicate weight in ounces or hundredths of a pound. And keep in mind the definition of package: Package. A cask or barrel or similar wooden container, or a drum or similar metal container.
  28. 1 point
    Everything you will end up needing, molasses, grain, barrels, equipment, bottles, all comes freight. What might seem like a short cut now may hinder your ability to even operate at some efficiency. Hard to meet the freight elsewhere when the still is running. Oh right, he's gonna be there between 10-2. Sure. Or u have to spend time moving things again cause you can't get them delivered, not to mention a fork lift here and a fork lift there. Here a fork there a fork everywhere a fu#% f%#k. Oh then when you have to ship something. Like pallets of booze to your distributor. Think it through real good Pretty easy to blow through several pallets of any fermentable in a month. Even at 100 g batches. With all the friggin cleaning that needs to be done, I'm pissed when simple things like a delivery, take all day.
  29. 1 point
    Give me a shout if you need help with anything. We can get you set up with whatever you may need. chris@stilldragon.com
  30. 1 point
    I would just do a keg still and a 4" flue from still dragon. Less than $1500. Plenty big to develop recipes, although as mentioned above illegal. If you go commercial you will need something a lot larger, so buy the big still once. While I know one distiller who started with two 26 gal stills they were both quickly replaced by a 100 gallon.
  31. 1 point
    Modular is a nice way to learn. You can start with pot still distillation - arguable the easiest. Then move on to trays, where now you add the complexity of operating the reflux. I wouldn't ever recommend perf plates for a beginner over bubble caps. Cap trays are much more forgiving and have a wider effective operating range.
  32. 1 point
    Back when i started I looked at both those guys heavily. I ended up buying the mile hi 4" 4 plate column setup but got the boiler controller and some supplies from hillbilly. In the end the all copper setup lost out to the modular mile hi. That all said, had still dragon been going at that point it would have been different. Now, still dragon seems to offer almost everything a fella could want. Two exceptions. First mile hi perf plates for the 4" are superior TO SD perf plates and easily keep up with flow rates on the pro cap SD for vodka purposes. Second, when it came time for a larger boiler, I sourced a custom design from china directly for a fraction of the cost of anything from SD or the others.
  33. 1 point
    I have seen the same thing happen. That thick card stock is not good on round bottles.
  34. 1 point
    Customs bond is $259/year, glass bottles are duty free under hts 7010.90.5019 .
  35. 1 point
    Yes, we make custom molds for $10K with MOQ's of 5,000. No strings attached. Mexico is covered by NAFTA, so there are no duties to worry about, just freight. We currently have multiple projects in Hawaii. I bet I even have some freight estimates I can find. At 5,000 run quantities we are in the mid $2 range depending upon design. Do you label during fill, or should we also look at artwork and quote decoration? Once we have the design and can create a packaging specification, then pallet configuration, we can figure out how to optimize the container. A 750ml in a 12 pack reshipper would be about 15,000 in a full 40 foot shipping container, so 5,000 means we might want to look at a 20 foot container rate, plus upping the order size a bit to max out the 20 foot. Very close to our factory is also the Stopper supplier, TAPI. Maybe we can consolidate with them to save costs too. I am sure they can bring their corks to us before we seal the container. I am a firm believer in sealed containers door to door. When is a good time to speak? Brooke 860-350-5485
  36. 1 point
    Something like this useful for anyone? 750ml_Bottle_Check_Weight.pdf 375ml_Bottle_Check_Weight.pdf
  37. 1 point
    i may be totally wrong but is the angel share not made up of higher more volatile ,sharper tasting alcohols thus giving the aged spirit a smoother more palatable spirit . personally if i was seeing a very high rate of angel share i would first look closely at my cuts . as far as linseed oil is concerned i would look at barrel wax to seal a barrel before a oil product that may soak thru into me spirit . in my mind removing the angel share is the only real scientific reason for ageing in a barrel compared to ageing in a stainless vessel with oak chips , but this is only my opinion please dont send the coopers union to break my legs for mentioning oak chips lol ... and speaking of coopers you may be suffering from jus poorly made barrels made out of poor choice of wood grain . we had purchased some used wine barrels half of them had the usual stains and scaring the others were totally red from the wine inside soaking thru . i figured one was used for different wines but at a closer look both had identical info on them from the winery, however they were made by different cooperage's so my conclusion is they were made out of different quality of oak . allowing for different amounts of the red wine to soak thru ... that my guess , but there some very talented coopers on this forum that hopefully chime in and set me thinking straight ...
  38. 1 point
    I think the craft distillery industry has reached phase 2 in its lifecycle. No longer will you be able to just build it and they will come. The novelty of small batch, locally made spirits has pretty much worn off. I think that to succeed now, new distilleries have to have a strong story/brand and most importantly, make a quality product. The days of putting a still in a nondescript building and making sub par spirits are behind us (in my opinion). There is still plenty of opportunity for distilleries that provide a quality product and a compelling brand to succeed.
  39. 1 point
    If you are interested in gin, you may enjoy this thread: As for gin making and using gns, a simple potstill is just awesome. Regards, Odin.
  40. 1 point
    And this is exactly the reason that Jim Beam is paying Mila Kunis millions of dollars a year.
  41. 1 point
    Thanks Pete! For the feedback and the kudo's. I'll make some more books. On gin and on rum and on still design. I'll try to do one every quarter. Next one to be released by February. Hi Tom, hmmm ... to clarify: if you consume workers during the distillation process, please make sure you cut out their heads and tails! Regards, Odin.
  42. 1 point
    If I go lower in pH, it is because I want to create a little bit more taste. Lower pH enhances the formation of taste molecules (Esterification). So I do it on rum and whiskey, but not on vodka recipes. When I make (or help develop) taste rich products, like rum or whiskey, I use (or advice to use) backset. It is sour and will sour up mashing and fermentation, enhancing esterification. Since you now add backset, instead of water, to the next mash/ferment/distillation cycle, you also increase taste, you don't need (so much) yeast nutrients, and it helps you stabilize on taste output (repeatability). In general, I aim for a much lower pH, especially while fermenting (where most taste is formed). It does not only help create more taste (and a more interesting whiskey or rum), it also helps against bacterial infections, when pH is below pH 4.8. Low pH is good against all bacterial infections ... safe lactic bacteria infection, unfortunately. I usually aim for a starting pH, while fermenting, of pH 4.8 and will see it go down to pH 3.8, depending on wash type (malts having more buffering capacity than grains having more buffering capacity than molasses). If it goes below pH 3.5, I know that next time I have to add a bit of lime to start with, so it does not get more sour than pH 3.8. I don't like it lower than that because (again, depending on sugar source) ferments tend to stall below that. Regards, Odin.
  43. 1 point
    Hmmm. I wonder what you are doing at fermentation. What are you fermenting? Molasses, what grade? Panela? Cane sugar? What temps are you fermenting at? Do you use nutrients? These all have an effect on flavor. Lower grades of molasses can give bitter off flavors. Do you strip first or do a single run? How much are you collecting for heads? My rum is sweet and with a slight fruit finish. I cut the heads deep, and the tails very early to keep it very clean, so to me your cuts sound about right for the tails.
  44. 1 point
    sadly the truth of the matter is that science is still chasing after tradition and trying to understand it all. Flavor chemistry is very complicated. The involved aromatic compounds will react with each other at each step of production and therefore they all will impact the final aroma and taste created. if you know the chemical structure of the concerned compounds you can see what fraction will separate from ethanol (basically your heart) more easily. basically figure out your cuts according to your equipment parameters. More complex flavors can be created if you keep larger cuts with less "purity" but that doesn't necessarily mean you get the flavors you want... fermentation and treatments in fermentation itself will have a big contributing factor as well. There is just so many factors to think of...so yia in the end you need to just developed a style and go with it. There is also treatments you can do afterwards (like soaking a small amount of fresh fruit in the liquor to extract the fresh completely un-reacted aroma compounds from there. More research is needed but well quite frankly analytically equipment is very expensive and flavor compounds come in very minute concentrations so detecting them is extremely hard, not to mention being able to correlate what compound causes what fraction of perceived flavor since flavor perception does not necessarily equal to chemical presence in solution... here is some links to articles.. but no one (that I know of) really has a clear cut answer to all this (I wish I could attache the actual files, I get them through school... its amazing how expensive articles can be...erg free knowledge is key to advancement) http://pubs.acs.org/doi/full/10.1021/jf047788f http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1745-4530.2005.00377.x/abstract http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12517106 http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1745-4530.2008.00251.x/abstract http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1745-4530.2005.00377.x/abstract
  45. 1 point
    Folks: Sorry about the odd spacing in the post above, evidently this forum does not react to standard formatting attempts! Eric Watson President AlBevCon, LLC
  46. 0 points
    I was referencing the concept pushed by some in the industry, and that you will find in other threads on this forum, that some fake craft producers feel it should be "buyer beware" , and that customers are somehow not worthy of knowing what they are buying just because they don't know all 2400 pages of the CFR. As for "crap craft pushback" somehow being a negative to the craft industry, surely you must not sample much craft beer. If you did, you would know that taste is entirely subjective, and does not need to fit the cookie cutter profiles that Big Bev wants customers to believe is the only thing worth drinking. Its trully sad that some consider the non-standardized flavor profiles of true craft as somehow being wrong, or that one must use bulk "natural flavors" that are in most cases only "natural" because the beaver's ass the flavor came from is "natural" (look it up). The only think a craft distiller really needs to Concentrate on, is once you have a product that has been generally accepted by a reasonably sized cross section of customers, you need to be able to replicate that in a volume that fits your business plan. When people get used to expecting a specific flavor, they expect it time and again. You can always push towards new and different flavors, but you should maintain the flavors of the successful sellers.
  47. 0 points
    depends how bad it is. I use PBW when the copper parts are really worse for the wear, but generally use a strong mix of citric acid keeps the copper clean. If your pot is copper, I'd guess you have to use PBW (we have a stainless pot with copper in the vapor pathway) but like the other's said, be careful with caustic on copper.
  48. 0 points
    Can't you just turn on your still, pour the NGS in the top and drain it out the bottom ? Why are you even bothering to go through the charade of running it ?
  49. 0 points
    Uhhh, no more than Proctor and Gamble is an Amazon manufacturer. Both use the respective marketplaces but one does not own the other...
  50. 0 points
    bought a 500G mash tun and three 500G fermenters from them. beautiful equipment. If I can just get my boiler hooked up, ill tell you how it all runs. Paul and Susan were awesome to deal with. I will continue to buy from them.