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bluestar last won the day on October 31 2016

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About bluestar

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  1. Everyone who currently does a SWEET MASH with post-fermentation lactic souring should file an objection to the patent with the USPTO. You can not patent an existing recipe or technique. AND the article is wrong, it can not be BOTH proprietary AND patent pending, because submitting a patent is a form of publishing, and specifically means it is no longer secret. So either they are not revealing what is unique, and hence it can not be patented, OR it is now public, and people can object if they can document prior art. More likely, the general method is NOT being patented by them, but some specific aspect, and they use that for marketing. We will make public HERE: We use a post-fermentation natural souring recipe for our corn-based whiskies. We do this because we believe it was a traditional 19th century method of mashing. We have been doing it for the past FIVE 5 years, since our inception.
  2. We have a 40KW bainmarie, and based on that experience, can confirm what SH has said. We draw about 98 amps on 240Vac 3-phase. The 48KW will run the 12" column okay, but getting the 300 gallons up to temperature will be slow, at least a couple hours, more if the oil starts cold. Also agree these will have to be hardwired.
  3. Some CRM systems will integrate will generate sales orders, and even link them up with QB, but usually on the web-based version. If you have many sales people, a CRM could be useful, in any case. But it does cost.
  4. Nice that Anton Paar offers this now, but it is almost just a hobbyists version. Only 0.5% accurate (versus 0.1%), and 0.2 deg C (versus 0.1). What is neat, is if you set it up with an automated sipping unit, and remote bluetooth reading, it could be incorporated cheaply into a production line. On the other hand, it will burn through batteries (does not appear to have a power adaptor option). It does maintain calibration, a major advantage over the eDrometer.
  5. Haven't tried it, but it is a bargain price if it works as described. I would note, however, it is NOT TTB approved, so you would still have to have TTB approved and calibrated hydrometers for final proofing, and the glass hydrometers are still the cheapest, although not most convenient, means. Also, be interested to know how easy/difficult they are to recalibrate.
  6. Sure, but also consider options to reinforce thinner walled material.
  7. Correct, depends on when you cut off the strip. We use electrical heating, so it is not worth running to the very end. Cutting off at 15% alcohol leaves us with about 50% in the low wines using a simple pot still and no dephlegmator. When determining value of running longer, consider it is not just the cost of running the strip longer: you are going to be "precutting" some of the tail congeners this way, and with lower proof, it will mean more energy to heat the spirit run.
  8. That is the correct percentage for the ethanol LFL, but 3.3% is not 3300 ppm, it is 33,000 ppm. So if you are keeping below levels for prolonged exposure, you will be well below LFL.
  9. Is that actually the same still? From Hambone, but that says 4 plate and 330 gallon. I suspect it is, judging from the pics posted, but Hambone should confirm.
  10. wattage of the elements? and/or current they draw?
  11. Just to verify, does that include the actual heating elements and power drive box (more than just the controlling computer)? If so, what are the size and number of elements, total power required. If not, what is required?
  12. We still sell Prairie Sunshine™ wildflower honey spirit unaged, but we also offer a "Barrel Reserve", which is made like a light rum: blend barrel-aged spirit with spirit briefly rested in barrels. Aging has ranged from 8 to 18 months, and rests from 1 to 4 weeks. We have been using small bourbon barrels (5 to 15 gallon). The Barrel Reserve just went into distribution recently, prior to that only offered retail at the distillery.
  13. Sorry, your question was very confusing. You were asking MUST you have or WHY would you have these hydrometers. Yes, you would only have these if you CHOOSE to use a process that requires "specific gravity" hydrometers to make the measurement. But, you are NOT required to use those to make proof measurements. All required proof measurements for a distillery COULD be made using hydrometers calibrated in PROOF and making necessary corrections. Yes, the method you outline using weight gauging is one example of where you would use specific gravity hydrometers, but you don't have to use that method. The reason for the accuracy and calibration, however, is the same as I gave for the proof hydrometers, in as much as the required accuracy when pushed through the required calculations to determine proof from a method using a specific gravity hydrometer are to assure the same accuracy required for proof obtained using a proof hydrometer. Was your question academic, or where you trying to determine if you need to purchase those specific gravity hydrometers?
  14. This is likely flocculation. The source is likely the barrel in the case of the bourbon. We see this, depending on size, type, char, and source of the barrel, length of aging, etc. Most of this appears to be due to oligosaccharides. They affect mouthfeel and sweetness. You can chill filter them out, but it will change the flavor profile of your spirit. You did not say if there was ANY change in the aging process between older and newer batches of bourbon. We get this in some of our whiskies, and we educate our customers about it, you might have to do to the same. To eliminate it, chill filter.
  15. There are very specific requirements for accuracy. You must be +0 and -0.3 degrees of proof, and to do that, you need an accuracy of the hydrometer order of 0.1 or better, TTB often recommends another order of magnitude. Unless you get a very expensive digital hydrometer or densitometer, the cheapest way to measure proof to the required degree of accuracy are the calibrated narrow range glass hydrometers. You can self calibrate to an intermediate standard, and save money. You can get glass hydrometers of sufficient accuracy but without calibration for $30-$50. But calibration runs around $100, more or less. Don't forget, you also need a very accurate thermometer to be able to control or compensate for temperature, at least 0.1 deg C.