bluestar

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bluestar last won the day on October 31 2016

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About bluestar

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  • Birthday 09/11/1956

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    http://quincystreetdistillery.com

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    Chicagoland & Southwest Michigan

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  1. We found bourbon is definitely over-oaked after 6 months in 5 gallon. As barrel size goes up, this number increases, also dependent on environmental conditions. By the time you get to 30 gallon, you are in a strange place. Woodinville, I think I recall, made a nice 3 year old bourbon aged in 30 gallon barrels.
  2. Work-related injuries to hands and wrists due to long-term repetitive motion.
  3. You guys seem to be talking past each other, I can't really tell whose retort is responding to whom. To the original query, these guys all seem to be agreeing, you distill on grain for corn traditionally (i.e., distiller's beer). Dan is right, you can't really remove the yeast and leave the grain behind. Did not notice anyone actually suggesting lautering corn. Good thing, too, it is really tough to do. Dan is also right that when distilling yeast in the pot, there is a greater generation of sulfur (and ammonia, both from added protein of yeast) that can by scrubbed by the use of copper in the still, particularly in the vapor path. You can avoid burning your corn distiller's beer by dialing back the temperature of your oil bath in the bain marie. You will need very good agitation of the corn beer as well, to prevent scorching, and keep thermal transfer efficient by combining convection and avoiding formation of a settling layer cooking onto bottom and walls of the pot. We distill our bourbon on grain, in a copper pot still heated with a water-bath bain marie at full boil.
  4. Do you know who services these in the USA (Italian manufacturer)?
  5. Don't use vinegar, use citric acid for cleaning. Don't clean by distilling, just soak or flush with weak hot solution. Distilling vinegar in copper creates copper acetate, nasty. And, if you have any vinegar (acetic acid) in the apple cider, that might come across as copper acetate. As pointed out by others, you will have to get rid of copper downstream of still head to eliminate that, or make sure the copper is completely passivated downstream.
  6. Our standard corn mash for bourbon is similar, very high corn, suitable for either young bourbon in small cask or a 2-4 yo straight in a 53. But the styles will be completely different, you can not reproduce the straight in small cask. Also, we use our same mash for our corn whiskey, and with more than 80% corn, you can consider using his product as a corn whiskey, which does not have to be aged, or can be aged in your used barrels. You could also redistill it for vodka, if you have a still that can get you over 190.
  7. You can adjust proof after filtering, although you will likely want to use filtered water of as good or better quality.
  8. Our gins are either single distill from mash, or a redistill from a near neutral spirit itself made from feints. In both cases, this keeps the cost of the source alcohol low. But it is probably still not as cheap as purchased GNS.
  9. Everyone who currently does a SWEET MASH with post-fermentation lactic souring should file an objection to the patent with the USPTO. You can not patent an existing recipe or technique. AND the article is wrong, it can not be BOTH proprietary AND patent pending, because submitting a patent is a form of publishing, and specifically means it is no longer secret. So either they are not revealing what is unique, and hence it can not be patented, OR it is now public, and people can object if they can document prior art. More likely, the general method is NOT being patented by them, but some specific aspect, and they use that for marketing. We will make public HERE: We use a post-fermentation natural souring recipe for our corn-based whiskies. We do this because we believe it was a traditional 19th century method of mashing. We have been doing it for the past FIVE 5 years, since our inception.
  10. We have a 40KW bainmarie, and based on that experience, can confirm what SH has said. We draw about 98 amps on 240Vac 3-phase. The 48KW will run the 12" column okay, but getting the 300 gallons up to temperature will be slow, at least a couple hours, more if the oil starts cold. Also agree these will have to be hardwired.
  11. Some CRM systems will integrate will generate sales orders, and even link them up with QB, but usually on the web-based version. If you have many sales people, a CRM could be useful, in any case. But it does cost.
  12. Nice that Anton Paar offers this now, but it is almost just a hobbyists version. Only 0.5% accurate (versus 0.1%), and 0.2 deg C (versus 0.1). What is neat, is if you set it up with an automated sipping unit, and remote bluetooth reading, it could be incorporated cheaply into a production line. On the other hand, it will burn through batteries (does not appear to have a power adaptor option). It does maintain calibration, a major advantage over the eDrometer.
  13. Haven't tried it, but it is a bargain price if it works as described. I would note, however, it is NOT TTB approved, so you would still have to have TTB approved and calibrated hydrometers for final proofing, and the glass hydrometers are still the cheapest, although not most convenient, means. Also, be interested to know how easy/difficult they are to recalibrate.
  14. Sure, but also consider options to reinforce thinner walled material.
  15. Correct, depends on when you cut off the strip. We use electrical heating, so it is not worth running to the very end. Cutting off at 15% alcohol leaves us with about 50% in the low wines using a simple pot still and no dephlegmator. When determining value of running longer, consider it is not just the cost of running the strip longer: you are going to be "precutting" some of the tail congeners this way, and with lower proof, it will mean more energy to heat the spirit run.