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RobertS last won the day on May 23 2016

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About RobertS

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    Active Contributor
  • Birthday 02/15/1990

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  • Location
    Birmingham, MI
  • Interests
    Distilling, flavor experimentation

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  1. We use a vacuum filler and have our proofing tank on the ground.
  2. You are absolutely required to use a calibrated hydrometer for bottling, and I believe barrel transfers or any time product is leaving your bond.
  3. We use our normal CIP caustic and acid, warm but not hot enough to soften the suction tubes. Takes maybe an hour to run caustic, acid, and a couple water rinses through the system.
  4. Calibration is typically either single-point or two-point. For single point, you use a calibrated hydrometer to read the proof and then compare that reading to the one given by the hydrometer to be calibrated. If the hydrometer you're calibrating is over or under, you record that and add/subtract that in the future to get a true reading. This is done at controlled temperatures - usually 60F - and typically aimed at the middle of the hydrometer's range. For two-point, you make readings at either end of the range instead of the middle.
  5. I encountered this with tygon, and in its case the difference was caused by there being multiple formulations. Several sites only listed it as 'tygon' without formulas, and then disagreed on resistances. Pure PTFE is certainly excellent for alcohol - a PTFE rubber is claiming otherwise may have unspecified additives that are not.
  6. @Foreshot, thank you. I had this image of the sleeves getting caught up and misaligned somehow. Adding it to the list.
  7. We've been using the heat gun, too. I'm trying to figure out if and when we would want to upgrade to a more dedicated tool. Is a heat tunnel that much faster or more reliable than an operator who has fumbled through a couple cases with a heat gun? We are using a tube film style of sleeves, which makes me a little leery since all the pictures I've seen with tunnels have the closed top style sleeves.
  8. I'm with Greenfield. No plates, head goes straight to condenser. Botanicals in a basket in the still head. Scrub the pot before/after a gin run and use the still for stripping before doing the next finishing run. Never noticed a problem and never did a special boil just to clean.
  9. We distill on the yeast and any off flavors we may be getting are in the cuts, not the hearts.
  10. I've used sodium bicarbonate without that happening and usually find mintiness at the start rather the end. How much did you use? Were your cuts the same size as usual? I assume these flavors weren't there when stripping or for other runs with the same recipe and ferment stats?
  11. Our unheated storage in Michigan has been aging barrels nicely, but our oldest is 3 years and I haven't seen what aging in the South is like for comparison. I'd never heard the 50 degrees thing before.
  12. I'd say 2521 is what we have, thank you for looking that up.
  13. Don't have part numbers, but we have a couple of small (3 feet of 3 inch pvc shell) membrane filters in sequence. Makes about 10 gallons an hour, so planning is needed. I keep a 10 gallon milk can sealed up with RO water and clean it regularly, mostly for rinsing things. When I need more than that, I'll fill one of my 80 gallon tanks the day before/morning of.
  14. Thank you for the update, HedgeBird. I am adding that fill head to my wishlist as we move.
  15. Can't comment on its stability, which may bring us back to the original problem. On the other hand and off topic, a pH indicator coloring agent could be an interesting toy for mixologists.