indyspirits

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Everything posted by indyspirits

  1. I just pissed myself.
  2. As @JustAndy said.. Bobby_M at brewhardware.com has tons of fittings. I've also used http://brewershardware.com for larger TC fittings that don't apply to your problem.
  3. Can you provide more details on your whiskey still. We experienced that in reverse -- made gin in our column still and had a tinge of flavor carryover into a neutral spirit. After our standard CIP protocol we backflushed with PBW followed Acid #5 (both from Five Star) through the parrot triclamp connection through the lyne arm, etc. That did the trick. So the answer is yes, you can do it, but it's a bit of a balls ache.
  4. Yes, Im aware of that. But your post above could be read that antibiotics are added to the distillate not used to clean up fermenters.
  5. That's a joke, right??
  6. Truer words were never spoken
  7. Let it patina like an old penny. Save yourself the frustration. You'll have a thousand other things more important than keeping your copper shiny.
  8. Masters in chemistry, while helpful, is far from necessary. What you really need is a process engineering consultant for about a year, a stellar marketing company, compliance officer, and CFO. Oh, and a shit-ton of money. Distilling is by far the easiest thing about running a distillery (and probably, after the first year, the most boring).
  9. You may be in for a challenge with that grain bill. Assuming they have a standard wedgewire false bottom that much corn and rye will clog up tighter than a cat's butthole. Single malt? Absolutely. Milled into a cornmeal consistency -- hardly ever. Now, you could have them mash and then use a FIP to slurp the slurry and take it your place for fermentation. As for your question, whats the total size of the mash tun?
  10. I'd be interested in hearing more about your setup. 10 psi steam has a volume of somewhere around 16 cubic feet / lb. Your boiler produce around 500 lbs of steam (I think) / hour which is enough to completely fill a small home. I can't for the life of me figure out how a jacket on a 265 gallon kettle has enough volume to hold that amount of steam. Does you WM have the ability to underfire the burners or are they open to atmosphere / bunsen style?
  11. It'd guess minerals in the water. Do you have a TDS meter? Are you using an ion exchange column after your RO system?
  12. Do you have a steam accumulator?
  13. Assuming 75% efficiency you're looking at either 300 kbtu or 450 kbtu. His heating needs are: 200 gallons = 1668 lbs 200 gallons from 75F to 212F = (212-75)*1668 = 228,516 BTUs 200 gallons from 212 to vapor = 970 * 1668 = 1,617,960 BTUs In my experience he won't have enough load for the boiler to run efficiently -- it's going to be short cycling to beat the band, and although it's not hard on the boiler, it will kill efficiency ($$$$). He needs roughly 250kbtus to heat up the still to boiling and another 1.6mbtus to vaporize the entire contents of the still (clearly he won't be doing this). The question that's difficult to answer is how fast can the heat be transferred from the steam jacket to the contents of the kettle. Delta-T is a factor (operating the boiler at 9 psi rather than 2 psi has it's advantages) but so is the architecture of the kettles (a "tablet" shaped is better than a cylindrical shape). I'd bet he wont see appreciably faster heatup times with a 600k than a 275k boiler because of the heat transfer rate and the fact the boiler will have serious short-cycling problems -- a 600k boiler wont push heat in any quicker than a 400k boiler. That being said, when he upgrades to a larger still he'll be good to go.
  14. Incorrect. You can use a 3Å molecular sieve.
  15. The human nose is pretty remarkable detecting 2,4,6-TCA (cork taint stuff) at a concentration of 4-6 ng/L or parts per trillion. Amazing really. Makes that 5% even more important to clean up. Cork taint, now that might be an interesting topic to bat around.
  16. Anyone here (other than us) buying 200 pf GNS? We do nothing other than proof with RO (then again, what could you do).
  17. We too polished relentlessly the first few months but then took a more relaxed attitude and embraced the worn penny look. That and it takes a long damn time to keep it new looking.
  18. Anyone do their own hardware / software for dephlegmator control? If so, care to share your secrets?
  19. I neglected to mention we do have a large AC filter but, as discussed, don't use it for chloramine removal. It's OK in terms of flow rate, but as we've bough larger equipment (600 liter to 2500 liter) we need to research another solution. Im at risk of hijacking the thread so think I'll start another topic!
  20. Exactly. But it's much more expensive that standard AC. We use the recommended 35mg of potassium metabisulfite / gallon of water. No flow rate restrictions, no filter medium PM needed, etc. Filling a 2500 liter mash cooker at 7 gpm would be painful.
  21. Really good article on brewing water. We've worked with this guy in the past. https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/water-knowledge
  22. Suboptimal for chloramine removal.
  23. You dont need to pay a premium for fermaid-k, just make your own from (basically) deactivated yeast, vitamin b complex, DAP, and a bit of mag sulphate.
  24. Technically you could age it in an charred oak jewelry box. There are plenty of threads around about folks that have tried aging with (not necessarily in) different woods. I believe Donald Snyder of Whiskey Systems conducted some oak experiments during his days at Buffalo Trace. Google is your friend here regarding why white oak is used.