Hudson bay distillers

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  1. ihave seen that still in action it is a very nice unit , you did a great job on it
  2. wow you have alot of goodies , are the oval tanks in the pics a type of milk tank , thanks tim
  3. mjduheme. got the pics , holy lick its worse than i would have guessed , i ll share them with the others here and we will talk about the viability of fixing and making use of it . how far are you from pauls fabricating shop , also is the agitator still on the boiler or did it sell already . could you send me the measurements of the inside boiler i may have a vessel that will fit inside that jacket once the crumpled one is removed . thanks tim
  4. i would be interested in some pics detailing the damage if you have time and a idea what kinda money you are hoping for thanks .
  5. who manufactured that boiler
  6. hey paul that makes sense i wondered why the valve didnt blow guess it cant blow if its not there lol . i take it you have seen the damage do you have any idea how much the repair would cost .
  7. hello im curious why didnt the pressure relief valve blow before the inner liner , how much damage did it do , and how hard will it be to fix ,
  8. the faster u can cool ur mash the better is my opinion , but thats jus me i wouldnt leave it to cool on its own .
  9. where are you located
  10. hey jesse here is a link to a rad they are all copper 4 core rad there designed to fit in the plenum of a forced air furnace , there usually enough height in the duct work to lift the plenum and install there very cheep and trouble free and good heat transfer . one rad this size will heat a house with no problem . we have also installed them like a unit heater with its own fan . my neighbour has one rad in the plenum of his electric forced air furnace and he supply it with a 250 gallon outside stove (yard furnace ). his house is around 2000 square feet on 2 levels (in northern Saskatchewan winter conditions ) . that gives you a idea how much heat one rad will pull out of water .
  11. im happy to say we can circulate our water back into our well all we want around here there is no laws like that here . tim
  12. hey jesse i think ur on the right track by using radiators to remove heat from water why waste that heat but dont use base boad heaters hydronic rads designed to fit in the plenum of a forced air furnace are way better and way cheeper , its alot easier to add on extra if need be to than digging more geothermal loops . if you could find out how much heat ur condenser will produce that would be a big help find out water temp going in and temp coming out and gallon per min (flow rate ). these two numbers will be crucial in design ur set up .. volume of water in your loops is a major factor ,example one gallon of water in loop or 1000 gallons in your loop , see huge difference . you need know how many degrees of heat your system needs to remove before it makes it back to the condenser . theoretically your return water only needs to be colder than your vapour temp at top of your column but the colder the better . you can remove the bulk of the heat by using it to pre heat process water (wash water or mash water ). or heating ur distillery or your home or a side arm that heats your house water , if there is still heat that needs to be removed then the water can continue on to your geothermal system for the final cooling if need be . bear in mind every degree of heat that is removed by the geothermal system is a total waste so the more uses you can find for those precious degrees before hand is all money in your pocket . there are many variables that you can tweek to get the desired result . you can change the volume of water in the system , you can change the rate of flow in your system allowing it more time to gain degrees in your condenser or loose degrees in your system , and you can change the type of heat extraction from simple hydronic rads for heating buildings or floor heat in cement floors or side arms and coils to pre heat process water for buisness or home . if you look at it like ur designing a hydronic heating system(but backwards lol) it gets real simple . we have designed many hydronic systems they are a very affordable source of heat transfer , heck a taco hydronic pump is only 150 bucks lol and will run continually for 10 or 15 years . also remember you need your water to return to your condenser at a very specific and consistent temp and flow rate in order to get max efficiency out of your condenser . the amount of heat that will be extracted from your water will be influenced by the temp of what your extracting the heat with ,,,example if your heating mash water it will extract heat faster when it is cold compared to as when it warms up , this also applies to heating a building the colder it is the more heat it will remove in same amount of flow time . this can be precisely monitored by use of 3 way mixing valves that will only allow water to return to the condenser once it has been properly cooled ,if its still to hot it will send it back thru the system to be further cooled . once again same as hydronic heating system, water only returns to be reheated once it has had a specific amount of heat removed (there no point in reheating hot water lol ) . if i was you i would set your system up and fire up your still and boil a batch of water and see if you can condense the steam back to water that would be a good estimate of the max cooling power u would need , then tweek it accordingly . all big fun jesse enjoy
  13. philstill that link is well worth reading glad u posted it , i think if i read it ten times and keep google up all the big words i may understand it , good stuff
  14. not exactly geothermal but we use water out of deep big bore well for cooling , its pulling water from the bottom of the well and returning it back to the well ,,,,our only concern is our hydronic heating coils are also same coils used for cooling so they need a flushing out before cooling , usually about 15 gallons of wasted water then its good to go .
  15. i may be totally wrong but is the angel share not made up of higher more volatile ,sharper tasting alcohols thus giving the aged spirit a smoother more palatable spirit . personally if i was seeing a very high rate of angel share i would first look closely at my cuts . as far as linseed oil is concerned i would look at barrel wax to seal a barrel before a oil product that may soak thru into me spirit . in my mind removing the angel share is the only real scientific reason for ageing in a barrel compared to ageing in a stainless vessel with oak chips , but this is only my opinion please dont send the coopers union to break my legs for mentioning oak chips lol ... and speaking of coopers you may be suffering from jus poorly made barrels made out of poor choice of wood grain . we had purchased some used wine barrels half of them had the usual stains and scaring the others were totally red from the wine inside soaking thru . i figured one was used for different wines but at a closer look both had identical info on them from the winery, however they were made by different cooperage's so my conclusion is they were made out of different quality of oak . allowing for different amounts of the red wine to soak thru ... that my guess , but there some very talented coopers on this forum that hopefully chime in and set me thinking straight ...
  16. relax lol its a inside joke with another forum member ,it has nothing to do with wearing bib overalls with no shirt or making meth lol . i agree chemistry , design engineering , marketing skills , working knowledge of history and good old think on ur feet and work ethic are the foundation of our industry . but a sense of humour is pretty important too sometimes we jus gotta relax and realise were jus making a product that our customers like and makes there lives a touch richer when they enjoy our product after a hard day on there jobs . cheers to all and hats off to everyone that makes the world a more pleasant place , one sip at a time .
  17. lol a masters degree in chemistry ...and your cooking whisky for a living , id say something has gone horribly wrong in ones life ..unbound 87 next time your talking to her thank her for the chuckle she made my day
  18. thanks for the info classick i appreciate it ..
  19. classick im very interested in this product but i dont see any info on there web site about this products tolerance to heat , we have some old copper equipment that i would like to get cleaned up ,,,,it looks like crap when paired with new stainless . keep me posted thanks
  20. my vote goes to the baine marie still for a test still . cant comment on any electrical issues because we dont use electricity to heat , but the still is great and for $1800 bucks for a 45 gallon still u cant beat it . and if you change ur mind and give up on making whisky this still also makes great cheese ,
  21. morning was wondering if anyone knows a source where i can get a 6.5 inch sight glass , just the glass . i would like to cap off the agitator port with a glass instead of ss plate , figure that hole is of no use may as well make it into a window to the world lol . any ideas would be great . thanks
  22. thanks hedge bird i ll check them out , i may have to call them monday and see if they could jus cut me a 6 and half inch circle of hightemper glass .
  23. here is a cool update regarding our new jacketed test still .. as a preemptive strike to passing inspection on this piece of equipment i asked to have a friend of ours inspect the welds and fabrication of the still boiler ( he is a high pressure welding inspector by trade ) . he came out and inspected our still and im very pumped to have him report that the vessel meets and exceeds the requirements of a pressure vessel for the pressure that it is rated ,,,and to make me happier this still is not intended to be or used as a pressure vessel as the heating and distilling operations are both open systems . as far as the welds were concerned he was 100 percent confident of all the welds even if it was to be used under pressure which it wont be lol bottom line is im pumped . i cant wait till paul and susan open up a office in saskatchewan preferably northern saskatchewan .
  24. last night our baine marie test still arrived on the truck unpacked it , all my parts were there and very little shipping damage to the still , it was very well packed , checked welds all look pretty good , all parts ordered showed up ,. if i could go back and do it again i would defiantly do things different but im super happy with this jacketed still , cant wait to hook the hydronic system up to it . tim
  25. thus may have nothing to do with nothing but ill mention it anyway lol. we got our hands on tubes from a old aeration grain bin . these tubes are 4 feet long and about 2 feet in diameter like size of a culvert but made of heavy screen . the science is they lay on the bottom of the bin floor one attached to the next till u reach the other side of the bin , the bin is filled with wet grain and air is forced thru the tubes and the grain is dried .anyway they are very strong but also very fine holes so my plan is to use them to separate grain from the wash . set on a angle with a collection tub under it to catch liquid , as i pump mash into the elevated end and turn it continually the mash will roll in the giant tube, liquid comes out thru the screen and the grain eventually rolls out the end . im not sure how many of these tubes i will need but im thinking by adjusting the rotation speed and the angle of the tube i can find a sweet spot and a 4 foot section will do (i have ten of them but i sure hope i dont need 40 feet of rolling tube to make it work ). the steeper the angle the faster the grain will roll to end of tube the lesser the angle the longer it will roll in tube before reaching the end this should make it a continual operation and more tubes could be added if volume needed to be increased . so does this sound like it will work , i should add the object of the game is to only extract to a moist grain level , so it can be fed out to neighbours. pigs ,