mendodistilling

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  1. Does anyone know a stocking supplier of this c122 tubing? I've called around the Bay Area and everyone says it is not in stock and has to be milled at multiple unit cost.
  2. http://www.discus.org/policy/fireprotection/
  3. This guy is a nice guy with quick work and knowledgeable. http://www.wardburner.com/images/Kettle_Venting_Wiring_Instructions.pdf
  4. I stand corrected... don't use it on the floors because its the airborne vapor that also can cause this issue. Makes sense really... its a gas.
  5. https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/FS/FS-50-W.pdf
  6. http://www.worldstainless.org/Files/issf/non-image-files/PDF/Euro_Inox/Passivating_Pickling_EN.pdf
  7. Is this the same TCA as in using Trisodium phospate with chorine or TSP-C and getting some residual in the bottle which causes skunking? Sounds like not using chlorinated products and a really good acid rinse should start the product off on a safe foot. Most wineries now use quarternay ammonia. It used to be common for chlorinated products to be used but the wine skunking of the cork caused quite a bit of research which led everyone to steer clear of chlorinated products in the production pathway. Its only used on floors, etc. Someone with some out of date methods likely had this equipment. Sounds like if its stainless a good "pickling" of the stainless is probably in order anyway with nitric acid and then should be perfect again. You want to passivate your stainless steel parts from time to time to avoid any chemical gouging and rust. Probably right before starting production would be a perfect time.
  8. Hoga (not sure why my spell check keeps saying "hogs" )provides the welded stainless platform to mount the pot. You have to brick it and vent it using fire brick and / or kaowool (Rockwool insulation). Armindo is pretty accommodating. Ask him the options. Ward burner can help with the controls. See if he can work with someone to build you a switchboard so you don't have to fool with too much and just get to wire it all up vs. having to fabricate the whole process. You'll need some ceramic diffuser or fire diffusers to hit the flame and spread it. Al common. There is a thread on here somewhere that gets into suppliers for each of these odds and ends furnace parts. Been done many times before. You need a cast iron door or something fire proof and have the proper air flow into the furnace. This is why I suggest having a company that deals with mechanical and furnaces help younhere. Or ask Armindo for btu and air flow calcs. He probably knows references at the least. I didn't realize he doesn't make parts anymore for support but he probably has experience from it. On grain will require steam, it's not suggested to do it in a pot. Caustics and acid cleaners will help break all that char up but prob best to try and avoid a high solids content. Steve beam may be able to point you in a good direction if he still has his going. He's in Kentucky and had the goofball from Moonshine's tv series making stuff in his distillery. Prob one of the nicest guys I've had the pleasure of spending time with.
  9. Also, if you can get a mixer built into your still. As Paul says, on grain will be likely to burn but with a mixer its more likely to succeed.
  10. One other thing that may be worth mentioning is explosion proof exhaust fans that can be turned on by ppm sniffers like fire alarms.
  11. You can build a metal frame to support the hogs and have a flu vent installed by an hvac professional and it will properly vent just like a propane stove in ones home. Same exact btu and setup almost. Maybe twice the btu but probably quite close for a moderate sized main room in a home. All you need for protection is a way to shut off the burner when the distillate temps exceed condensed temperatures bc the condenser coil is not able to cool vapor. this System is so basic and just gently heats and cools vapor. It's not a column still with plates that can clog or build pressure. There aren't places for the vapor alcohols to travel except out the cracks of the pot which probably won't happen ever or forward and stay in vapor form which would shut down the furnace circuitry and stop the vapor immediately reversing the building of vapor by cooling off. No input heat to absorb and the flow of vapor stops. People who point out the home made still that exploded also fail to point out heavens hills epic fire which had to do with vapor fire potential not direct fire. Direct fire has plenty of far superior product out there vs steam. Quality of something that has not avoided Maillard reactions caused by direct flame scorching taste far different from the cooking and caramelization that steam is designed to avoid. Spend the time here to find the types of cheap fire sniffing devices and alcohol sniffing ppm devices which can alert you to trouble. Cooling water temperature should be optimal to keep a pot still operating in a very safe manner. Discus has info on much of this. There have been some amazing people here who have given much input on fire safety devices and fire codes. I'd look there before I'd listen to people who say 2000 years of distillation in all parts of the world before steam were wrong. It's not that cut and dry. Problems start with trapped pressure which isn't possible in a hoga pot still. Vapor pouring out is a problem with a simple fix stated above.
  12. Nice!
  13. Get a bucket with a liquid tight lid. Weevils like to get into the citric. Some other bugs do too. What a pain. Nice thing about citric vs phosphoric is citric is dry.
  14. American tartaric and univar carry bulk. Probably a brewers supply would too. Most winery supply houses carry citric and Phosphoric can vary in %.