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Natrat last won the day on January 19 2016

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About Natrat

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    Ham Handed Philanderer
  • Birthday 01/23/1973

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    Salt Lake City
  • Interests
    Technology, chemistry, sailing, flavor, marine biology, and wonderful wonderful booze.

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  1. Not all neutrals are the same. Botanical quality aside, the base of a gin is the distillate. You will find that the same gin made with different bases are different gins. Even if your corn ethanol is distilled "6x," it is still full of corn flavor. Other than NS being relatively inexpensive, it allows hardcore ginsmiths the ability to further tune their products. OR, you make your own neutral, and go from there. Just different approaches, like macerating vs. dry gin vs. compounding. Or rotovaping! No two of my gin clients use the same base neutral. Grape, wheat, barley, tapioca, potato...even cheese whey are their starting points :-)
  2. Keep an eye on mutations. Another thing is to periodically acid wash your pitch. Biggest issues with continuous processes is crud buildup in your equipment. Have fun!
  3. I use a 2" diaphragm pump plumbed in a loop on the tank. Run the pump for 3 min to mix the water and grain back into slurry, then flip a valve to transfer :-)
  4. That's what I was going to ask...pre-rinse or sparge can do this. When in doubt, sparge with filtered product in the loop.
  5. My guess is that you will be ok. With hoses, wadding up some PE film and pushing it through the hose slowly can remove TCA taint. On a pump, I'd replace any elastomer parts...same with bottler. Hitting stainless with steam and a passivating concentration of citric acid would be beneficial. Good Luck!
  6. I'd stick with the hot air. It's not fun, but if you use the ones that look like a soldering iron (instead of hair dryer) you can mount it on a stick. If you tie a rod across the manway, it's easier to brace on. But I think the seams will re-open. It sounds as if they were solvent-welded together, so the voids will extend out about 30 mm. Crappy. How about a 60 gallon sanitary can liner? Disposable. Cuts down on CIP time, too!
  7. Good arithmetic, good answer. How about "heat in = heat out." If you size the reservoir and delta T to match the BTU you're putting into the wash at the pot over the course of the run, then the resulting heat losses from still radiation give you a nice small margin of error for your res. Personally, I recommend sizing your cooling at 160% of your heating capacity, as there are always errors, and your res can be affected by its environment. Cuz I'm late for work, so no math from me today!
  8. Has your fermentation lag or total ferment time sped up recently? Has your proportion of liquid heads increased? Have you changed nutrient loads? Or have you started a new lot of yeast? And has your finishing pH been really low or wonky?
  9. I love those Bormioli grappa glasses. I use them at work. For blending, i like the Copita style glasses they have at Crate & Barrel. I use them at home, too. And they are ok in top rack!
  10. Rather than adjusting without first titrating, perhaps adding a pH buffer to avoid change is a good idea. Backset works if you're already collecting it. But it can be messy if you aren't. At what point are you needing to acidify?
  11. I put it in homemade citronella lamps. Wine bottle in a sconce with a wick. Add 2% citronella essential oil. Bye bye mosquitoes.
  12. Used, yes.
  13. What province are you in, Wayward? There are ways to get this done. Your local inspector is concerned about liability, and generally getting a Canadian certification can be rough, unless he knows exactly what agency he wants to certify it. Usually, at least in BC and Alberta, the issues come with the strict venting and make-up air rules. I have had some luck using local hvac engineers sign off on an installation so that the inspector can fob liability off on them. That worked great in Tofino!! if you are in the west, i know some gasfitters that can help get stuff in to the satisfaction of inspectors. Having said all of that, your still is pretty small. It might be more cost-effective to replace the burner with a locally certified solution and hit play :-)
  14. If you really are at "near flour," get one of those huge (almost joke size) ss whisks at a discount restaurant supply store. Works way better than flailing at mounds of floating flour with a canoe paddle :-)
  15. Sorry, the particular system I was thinking of didn't use an Auber SYL, I think it was a Siemens PID with an amplifier and signal converter. Having said that, there are a variety of proportional valves, both electric and pneumatic, that operate with PWM outputs. Omega and AASFOL both have electric prop valves that work directly off PWM. And I think KPI has an amplifier that translates pwm signals for their valves The thing is, the valve that opens and closes the AIR for a pneumatic proportional valve is a solenoid, which works great with pulse width. I admit, setting up dither and line amplification takes some learning, but it's well within the capabilities of most guys or girls that have constructed their own distillery! another approach is using cyclic open-close valves, and adjusting the modulation to a lower-speed cycle. I find that the autoune feature on good low-cost temp PIDs can cope with that setup. The main thing there is to keep the valve exhaust clean, as the PID takes a while to learn/detect faster or slower valve cycles. The place where I have had trouble is using proportional pilot steam valves. That requires a specific solution, although a good workaround is a pair of high speed solenoids and a digital needle valve (if you can't reach a manual valve) to fine tune things. But in this application (dephleg temp control) the relatively low volumes of water required can be handled fine by solenoids. Which means on-off control signals. Unless your dephleg is the size of a pickup truck and the piping in is over 3" dia! hope that helps :-)