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Everything posted by MichaelAtTCW

  1. INOXPA Flexible Impeller 10/40 Pump

    I assume you're talking about the EPDM impeller. Yes, it's rated for 5° more than Neoprene. The downside is that EPDM has much poorer mechanical resistance than Neoprene, so the tradeoff for 5° of head-room is rarely worth it. From one Jabsco distributor to another, I would strongly recommend against using EPDM as the default impeller material on your pumps solely for that extra 5°. We mostly recommend EPDM impellers for applications where the pumped material has poor compatibility with Neoprene rather than instances where the extra 5° is make-or-break. When you're pumping hot material, you'll go through impellers quickly one way or the other. Either because your product is at or near the maximum operating temperature, or because you're using an EPDM impeller, which has poorer mechanical resistance than Neoprene. Better to simply let your mash cool a bit before transferring it. Ours doesn't have threads inside the connection either.
  2. INOXPA Flexible Impeller 10/40 Pump

    That's never a good sign! We've been selling the SQN 20 since the 70s, so we know that maintenance and readily-available spare parts should be top-of-mind when deciding on a pump. $200 savings up front isn't worth much if the parts are more costly and harder to find. Luckily the SQN 20 has easily available spare parts, and most customers go 5+ years before they need to do anything but change the impeller, which is not that expensive. A new Neoprene impeller is $77. Keep one on the shelf. I know Inoxpa. My main beef with European flexible impeller pumps is that they are generally a little more lax with their quality control than Jabsco. They are also generally made from thinner metal. The SQN 20 is made from cast and machined 316 stainless steel. Most of the European flexible impeller pumps I see are made from bent or pressed plate/tubing, so they're much thinner. Bending and pressing is fine for tanks, but flexible impeller pump heads are subject to a lot of axial force from the motor shaft. Wandering tolerances will lead to leaking or suction problems. I pulled one of the SQN 20 heads from our shelf and took a picture. See below. I think the difference is pretty apparent. It's burly little head. The motor on these pumps will grind themselves to dust before the Jabsco head gives up the ghost. My only caveat about flexible impeller pumps is that you must be extremely diligent about not letting them run dry, and if you are pumping hot mash your impellers will need to be replaced much more frequently. If you want to avoid these issues there are alternative pump options (RPD, peristaltic…) but none as inexpensive.
  3. Quick connect/disconnects for hoses

    EPDM is similar in consistency to Buna, but is rated better with regard to ethyl alcohol compatibility. You'll find it seals way better than PTFE, which is usually reserved for low-pressure connections that have to rotate in-place (like racking arms). Your cheapest and sanest option will be to try an EPDM gasket before you write off Tri Clamp fittings. Particularly since 90% of the equipment you buy will likely use Tri Clamp for the liquid process ports.
  4. Pumps for High Proof Alcohol

    We're introducing a new sanitary centrifugal pump coupled to an explosion proof Class I, Div I motor and NEMA 7 motor starter with a 316L head. It's all mounted on the carts we build. It's available in a high flow/low pressure or high pressure/low flow configuration. The high flow model pumps up to about 130 GPM at 18 psi, while the high pressure model pumps up to about 60 psi at 30 GPM. A few are already in the wild. Here's a picture of one: Hope to have more details up on our website shortly, but give me a holler if you have any questions in the meantime: 707-963-9681.
  5. Connections on G70 pump

    We have the 3/4" barbs in stock and of course our price is better than Southernhighlander The G70 normally comes with 3/8" barbs. Flojet makes a special G70 assembly for us with 3/4" barbs, because this is what most of our customers want.
  6. PP body for spirit transfer pump

    Yep. I think I recall having this conversation with you. You're not too far from us in Northern California, correct? Give me a call. I should be able to set you up with the documentation. 707-963-9681.
  7. PP body for spirit transfer pump

    To ensure you're comparing apples to apples: part of the reason the G70 is more expensive is because it uses conductive materials that allow the pump to be fully groundable, thus granting it ATEX certification for safe pump operation in potentially dangerous or explosive atmospheres. Air diaphragm pumps have a lot of rapidly moving parts that can cause static build-up and discharge unless they're grounded, making them potentially unsafe if used around flammable products or vapors. Most air diaphragm pumps are not designed to be fully groundable. The ones that are groundable usually broadcast it pretty loudly by proclaiming ATEX/UL certification, or something like that. Groundable pumps are also usually more expensive than non-groundable pumps, as you've discovered. I'm sure Yamada makes some groundable pumps—they talk about having select ATEX and UL certified pumps here on their website. I'd be surprised if the Yamada you're comparing with the G70 is one of them.
  8. WARNING: Oak Wood Barrel Co.

    I went to the address listed on their website. Here's what I found: There were no businesses here except for Ralph's Courthouse Classic Hot Dogs. Ralph would not sell me a barrel—although I offered him a very good price. He just has hot dogs. I would go back to Ralph for hot dogs, but I would think twice about buying barrels from a company that does business from Courthouse Square in Santa Rosa.
  9. WARNING: Oak Wood Barrel Co.

    The address listed on the dirtcheapbarrels.com website is 570-598 4th St, Santa Rosa, CA 95401. That's our hometown! I'll stop by there tomorrow on my lunch break and let folks know what I find.
  10. passivating stainless

    We use a TIG brush here at TCW for cleaning and passivating TIG welds. Ours is the Capital Weld Cleaner. It works great for us. It's very quick and effective, but unless you're doing a ton of cleaning/passivating it sounds like what Streven proposes would be more simple.
  11. Distillery Pump, FIP vs. AOD

    I would switch it around just a little bit and say that flexible impeller pumps are better equipped to deal with solids. In particular they are better at moving large solids in suspension. Most AODD pumps have a manufacturer's specification outlining exactly how large of a particle they can accept without clogging. The larger the pump, the larger the solids it can accept. Typically, air diaphragm pumps are capable of passing solids in suspension no larger than 1/8 the size of the opening. So, if it's a 1" opening, the largest particle it can take is 1/8". A 2" opening may be able to pass solids up to .25", etc. Flexible impeller pumps can usually pass solids in suspension about 1/3 the size of the inlet, so quite a bit larger. They are, however, subject to the limitations that Tom mentioned, i.e. no high heat above 180 °F and no dry-running. Bear in mind that the 34 CFM requirement is only if you want to run the pump full-out at 43 GPM. You can run it at a slower speed and use less CFM. The math gets trickier, though, and you need to refer the pump curve. For example, you can run the SimpleSpirits 43 with 20 CFM @ 30 psi and still get about 27 GPM. You can run it with 10 CFM @ 30 psi and get about 17 GPM. Generally speaking, the larger the pump, the more efficiently it will use whatever air it has available. In terms of simplicity the Jabsco wins hands down. The head can be rebuilt in less than 10 minutes including a coffee break and there are only four parts: the impeller, the o-rings, the stationary seal and the mechanical seal. The impeller is the only one you'll likely need to touch in the first five years. With TLC and a spare impeller on the shelf they'll last you decades. We've seen it! AODD pumps are not simple. They usually take a few hours to rebuild the wet and dry sides and are more sensitive to over or under-torquing. but they are the best value if you're moving high proof. The pulsations can be an issue, but we've found that adding a pulse smoother tames pulsations significantly.
  12. Proofing barrel and bottle filling

    We sell a lot of fillers to distilleries, so my experience comes from aggregate information. Others on here can (and I hope will) share their own individual experiences. Most commercial semi-automatic fillers are fed in one of two ways: By gravity as you describe, where the final product is in a tank that is above the level of the filler's reservoir. By a pump turned on and off by a level control. The Mori Filler we sell can be fed either way. I would say about 80% of the Mori Fillers we sell are built with a level control/pump. The remaining are fed by gravity. Usually people opt for the gravity version for one reason and one reason only: cost. Unless you designed your facility to use gravity to your advantage, it is much more convenient to leave your tank on the ground. The other benefit to using a pump to feed the filler is that you can run a final filter pass in-line just prior to bottling. You can't do that with gravity. As far as the safety issues you ask about, most of the Mori Fillers we sell to distilleries use a completely air-driven level control and pump system that does not require electricity.
  13. Triclamp accesories

    This is good advice. I've seen a lot of people get tripped up by referring to tri clamp sizes incorrectly (e.g. referring to the size of the ferrule as the tri clamp size – calling a 2" tri clamp fitting 2.5") Attached is a good reference. It's a printable sheet that (as long as your paper/printer are set up correctly) prints true-to-size, so you can hold up a tri clamp fitting to get the size you need to order. Just put a big "X" over the 1" Maxi. They're not commonly used in stainless steel, as the sheet indicates. gvc_doc_00004(1).pdf
  14. Pumps for High Proof Alcohol

    Rust, eh? What kind of pump was it? What material was it made from? We sell a line of groundable AODD pumps specifically for distilleries: SimpleSpirits Pumps. These are air diaphragm pumps, so they require the use of an air compressor to function. The very rough rule of thumb with air diaphragm pumps is that you want your compressor to be capable of generating your desired flow rate in GPM x .75. So, if you want to pump 50 GPM, you need an air compressor capable of generating about 38 CFM at your desired PSI. Alternatively you can get electric pumps with XP-rated components like this, but these get pricey very quickly.
  15. FIP Pumps

    We've sold Jabsco FIPs since the 70s. They're workhorses, and reliable as hell. I love seeing a 30 year old pump come in that just needs a new impeller and o-rings to work good as new. Closest to the one you're looking for is our SQN 50, though it's 5 HP as opposed to 3 HP. We've sold a few Jabscos with XP-rated motors and drives. The XP components get pricey fast, though, and can add a 2-3x factor to the price depending on how many "trimmings" you need. This one had a continuously purged cast iron drive enclosure. I think it was for High West Distillery.
  16. Bottling Equipment

    Someone recently described it as looking like the filler Darth Vader would use. Not sure if that's a downside?
  17. Plate and Frame Filter Sizing

    Well… we do sell cartridge housings and the filters. From pretty basic/cheap housings where you can set them up in series, to cart-mounted 2x30" housings that can filter in series or parallel, to a full 2 x 30" system with integrated air diaphragm pump, like the one pictured right. I don't know much about the Shelco housings you link to. I do know that the style they sell isn't as popular in the beverage industry. It looks like the kind where the filter seal is dependent on how tightly you close the housing. That's pretty common for cheaper filtration setups, but in the beverage industry housings that have twist and lock bases are more common, as they tend to be more reliable. That said, we do sell the same style as the ones you link to for the cost-conscious. It's the polypropylene housing Silk City Distillers references above, also known as an Ametek housing As far as filters, we sell Graver filters. Ther cartridge filters are great – priced well and made in the USA. As I said, we sell a lot of them to distilleries. The number of filters you use and their micron rating depends on what you're trying to remove – large particles (floaties), sub-optical particles (haze), invisible particles (yeast, spoilage bacteria), or some combination of all of the above. Give us a call if you want to talk it over: 707-963-9681
  18. Plate and Frame Filter Sizing

    Not to respond to a thread hijack, but yes they will. Without seeing the housing I can't say that with 100% certainty, but AM is a pretty common end cap configuration with plastic housings like you find in water filters, etc.
  19. Plate and Frame Filter Sizing

    Are you looking at a 40 x 40, a 20 x 20, or…? Also, SCD is right. A lot of product gets left behind in sheet filters. Depending on how much you're processing at a time, you might consider cartridge filters. We sell a lot of these to distillers, who like them because relatively little product gets left behind, and you can even blow the remainder through with inert gas to get every last drop, if you want.
  20. Mori filler with wide mouth bottles (mason jars)

    Wow, interesting! Those are some beefy washers as well. I definitely won't tell people that the Mori Filler is for mason jars, but it looks like it can be done, albeit not perfectly. My hat's off to you. That is some fine MacGyvering.
  21. Polyethylene hose

    A few ways to find out if a hose has plasticizers in it: Talk to the hose manufacturer, or read their spec sheet, if available. Talk to the company distributing the hose. So, in this case head down to the Home Depot and ask one of the orange aprons. Have it analyzed by a laboratory. Not a way to test for plasticizers, but for other adverse effects: soak it for a week or two in vodka. We don't sell a PE hose for distillery use. Regular old PE will likely stiffen and craze after prolonged exposure to Ethanol.
  22. Cleaning Mori filler?

    The whole kit with the manifolds, caps, hose, and connectors to run in-line to the Mori Filler's pump would run $395 for a Six-Spout Mori, $365 for a Four-Spout Mori. For the first few guinea pigs volunteers willing to use and provide feedback we'd do an early-adopter 20%-off discount. Just send me a message here on the forums, or at michael@tcwequipment.com
  23. Cleaning Mori filler?

    In spite of better judgment, perhaps, we went ahead and prototyped up a Clean In-Place system for the Mori Filler. It actually came out pretty well, if I do say so myself! Here's a normal, no-frills Six-Spout Mori Filler: Now we'll attach the first half of the clean in place system to the right-hand nozzles: As you can see, it's basically a stainless steel manifold that locks the nozzles open. While the nozzles are locked open, liquid flows freely. Now let's attach the other half: The two halves clamp together. Now all the nozzles are locked open, so liquid can flow freely through them. As you can see, both ends have standard tri clamp ferrule connections. One end will be closed off with an end cap or valve until you're ready to drain the cleaning solution. The other end will connect directly to the inlet of the Mori Filler's pump that feeds the reservoir. When you're done filling and ready to clean, you can just disconnect your supply tank, connect to the clean in-place system, and add some cleaning product to your reservoir. It will keep recycling the cleaning product through the system for as long as you want. Pretty neat!
  24. Bottle Labeler with label serialization

    Hey CaptnKB, Our Ferrinox labelers have a built-in printing option. The least expensive Ferrinox labeler is the EKO-10, which sounds like it would work fine for your application. We've had these out in the field since the 90s, both for individual users, and for contract/mobile bottlers. They're built like tanks. Let me know if you want a quote. It'd be helpful to see the label, and where you'd like to have the info printed.
  25. Cleaning Mori filler?

    What Tom describes is pretty spot-on. There's a saying in breweries: "Making beer is 90% cleaning and 10% paperwork." About the only shortcut is to hire somebody to clean equipment for you and make sure you train them well. Still, the ease of cleaning vs. other gravity fillers is one of the things our customers like about the Mori Filler. Unscrew the nozzles, disassemble them, rinse, and soak them in your desired cleaning solution. Meanwhile, rinse out the reservoir, and clean. Repeat as necessary. You should cycle cleaning solution through the pump too. We've thought about doing a "dummy bottle" CIP system where you put cleaning/rinsing solution into the reservoir, and then hook the dummy bottles up to the nozzles to open them up. A pump would recirculate the rinsing/cleaning solution through the reservoir, the nozzles, and the dummy bottles. You could walk away and leave it to run for a while. That'd get you most of the way there, but you'd probably still have to spend some time with brushes. My main concern is that such a system would likely be cost-prohibitive for most users, and therefore it's not likely we'd sell many.