• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


PeteB last won the day on November 9 2016

PeteB had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

25 Good


About PeteB

  • Rank
    Active Contributor
  • Birthday

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Tasmania, Australia
  • Interests
    Distilling, plough to bottle
    Professional Sand and Ice Sculptor
    repairing water mills
    Making biodiesel

Recent Profile Visitors

18,235 profile views
  1. Agree There are 2 tubes, usually the hot vapor spirals downwards through the inner tube and cold water travelling up through the outside, but they can be with hot vapor in outside tube and cooling water inside.
  2. Thanks 3d0g. I will have to have a discussion with the distillery that told me not to get grain sparging too hot. I have a couple of video's on my phone of grain separation. When I work out how to reduce the size I will post.. One is through the window of a lauter tun, the other is of my vibroscreen.
  3. You mean they boil grain, not at clear wort stage? I assume some Germans like that tannin flavor in their beers, I know I like it in my tea, but I have been told the Scots do not like it in their whisky.
  4. Dehner is quite correct, with a more powerful pump as you suggested you could easily do some serious damage. From the photo's I guess your screen has a diameter of about 5 feet, that is 2,800 square inches. A very good pump could pull a negative 12 PSI, that is about 34,000 pounds pushing down on that screen. It will collapse. Also there is 34,000 pounds pushing up on the bottom of your nice, thin bottomed, Latina tank and it will crumple like a piece of aluminum foil. (please post photos when you collapse the tank)
  5. I know that a lot of USA distillers distill "on the grain". As many of you would know, Single malt distillers in Scotland only distill a clear wort. They do not want any grain husk in an water above a maximum of 80 deg C which is the hottest they will sparge their grain bed. Hotter than 80c extracts too many tannins.
  6. Has anyone on this forum had experience fermenting and distilling pineapple juice? I have been offered 600 litres of frozen juice Any ideas for the best use for it? Cheers Pete
  7. Has that ever been run? It is not a very energy efficient system as far as cooling water is concerned, but not a difficult fix.
  8. whiskey

    The haze you describe above is what we call flocc in Australia. It almost always happens when diluting past about 46%abv All the distillers that I know just leave the diluted spirit undisturbed for about 6 weeks and the haze forms crystals (flocc) which settles to the bottom of the tank. Bottle the clear spirit without disturbing the flocc.. By doing it this way you have removed the minimum amount of oils etc that contribute to flavor. Or you could chill filter if you can't wait the 6 or so weeks but that is said to remove more flavor. Other possible causes of the haze are saponification or louching. I don't understand the difference but neither of those will form a flocc and drop out of suspension over time.
  9. Thanks oddcobb. It is just over 44 years since I sat my last organic chemistry exam at the University of Tasmania. I have obviously forgotten most of it but it is surprising how much comes back with the right prompt.
  10. That was a really good read Odin. Much of what you have said there is how I run my distillery. A couple of chemistry technical points. You said "Ethyl acetate may not ring a bell with you. But it’s vinegar alcohol" Vinegar is acetic acid, not alcohol. But when vinegar reacts with ethanol it produces an ester called Ethyl acetate. That is not alcohol either, it is an organic salt. The other chemical mistake was calling copper a catalyst. A catalyst helps a chemical reaction take place but is not consumed. It is like a worker in a factory, workers are not normally consumed to make the products. Copper in a still is slowly consumed as you say, so by definition it is not a catalyst. Please write some more, you seem to be able to explain things very clearly despite English not being your first language.
  11. As Scrounge says cut the heat back as soon as foaming starts, then you should be able to increase again later. If your heat is way too high it can still foam even towards the end of the run when the protein issue should be well gone. I have a lot more foaming problem with 100% malted barley wash than my rye, least problem is with apple and grape wine. For anti-foam I use pure soap, about 2 grams per 100 litres
  12. Loosen hose at filter and see if the pump re-starts. If it does then loosen hose at filter outlet then keep working through all connections. EDIT until you find a tap turned off!!) EDIT (Above suggestion for future problem solving, Dave just found problem before I posted)
  13. I guess you have tried these loosen hose at pump inlet to check liquid getting to pump (the pump may need priming, is suction out top of tank or from tap on bottom?) loosen hose at pump outlet. Any flow? loosen or remove hose at filler inlet. Any flow? ( check that the inside of the hose is the same length as the outside, if the inside is shorter than the outside it won't work)
  14. Malt is from the same bulk delivery as previous good ferment a few days before. Final gravity is usually very close to 1.000, 1.014 is way too high. I have only just started doing 100% malted barley, 7 batches I think, usually do rye. I have pushed the pH of a sample up to 5 with potassium hydroxide but I still cannot make the yeast start. Tested the yeast in a sugar solution and it took off really well. If I haven't found a solution by Monday I will distill it and just accept the low yield, but I would love to know what went wrong so I can learn by mistake.
  15. I re-checked the mash temperatures and realize I was reading the wrong column. Strike temperature of water was 72.3 c and after grain added it was 65 c which is same as other mashes. I was thinking that Tom's suggestion of un-fermentable sugars might have been a possibility but that is now unlikely. A series of iodine tests for starch indicated complete conversion during mashing. Low pH is now a possible suspect. I have to get onto this quickly before "bugs" take over. The only thing I have that I could raise pH with is either Sodium or Potassium Hydroxide. Is it worth a try?? By the time I get something less harsh the ferment will be lost.