• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by PeteB

  1. I don't think I explained myself properly. I don't like the straight through Liebig condensers especially if they are short. Some uncondensed vapor can get through without being condensed especially if heat turned up too much at start of boil. Whereas the Graham condenser with the spiral vapor path is much longer and also if it is at about an angle of 45 deg. some liquid forms at the bottom of the curves and prevents any loss of vapor.
  2. The difficulty is measuring an exact volume. The measuring container needs to be calibrated at a specific temperature eg 60f or 20c then you need to have the liquid at that exact temperature. When mixing water and alcohol and possibly sugar, there is an exothermic reaction, the mixture heats up. For the accuracy that TTB requires, a parallel sided, calibrated glass measuring cylinder at standard temperature is no where near accurate enough. Cheap calibrated electronic scales in the correct range are much more accurate, and now meerkat has come up with an easy to use calculator.
  3. Be careful of cheaper condensers on the glass lab stills. I originally had a graham condenser, it has spiral path that when on an angle has liquid at the bottom of the spirals that prevents vapor escaping without condensing. It got broken and was replaced with a straight through Liebig condenser. I don't think this is condensing all the vapor as I am getting lower than expected readings.
  4. Is the vent pipe mounted to the back of the new combustion chamber? If so Ned is quite right. 1)Your heating surface has been reduced 2) Much of the heat is rushing up the vent pipe 3) All of the surface of the still that is not inside the burner chamber is radiating heat, cooling it down, without the bricks you have more heat loss surface. 5) remove the burner chamber and put back with bricks as original but without the copper plate. The air gap between the plate and the still was a good (bad) insulator 4) Heat up as fast as you can without scorching, less time heating equals less time for heat loss from rest of still surface. 6) Check the burner specs, I think it should be much closer to the base of the still. 6) does that regulator have the correct flow rate for that burner? it may be undersized.
  5. I have some very similar marerial i scrounged from a local paper mill. I think it is used to de-water pulp in a belt press. Try searching "belt press" parts
  6. I recently borrowed my Son's Hydropress (he juices water mellons for beer) to try to separate more liquid from my rye mash. A lot of work for nil gain. In the centre of the press there is a water filled bladder. Hook a hose on and fill to 3 bar(approx. 45 psi) It started pressing well but slowed to a stop. When I opened it up there was a nice solid 3/4 inch layer against the outside filter cloth but the rest of the mash was as wet as when I put it in. The mash had been compressed into an impervious layer. (sorry about the sideways orientation)
  7. A couple of questions. What grain are you going to mash? If corn then you don't need sparge or perforated base. Is that the perforated screen in the bottom? if so then it should go full width otherwise you will get a dead area to the sides that won't get sparged efficiently. Sparge arm looks a bit over-engineered but not a problem.
  8. A couple of points about this quote. Traditionally Irish whiskey is triple distilled, but also the traditional product was not "single malt" (I assume you mean 100% malted barley) Traditional Irish Whiskey contains a large % of un-malted grain. Also your reference to the green label, be careful that is not exactly the same green as a prominent Irish brand. A Tasmanian winemaker near me was threatened to be sued because his label colour was too similar to a big European wine label
  9. I would think it is the added flavour components are NOT completly completely soluble in your mix. For interest carefully pour some of the clear liquid off the top of a bottle with sediment. Replace with some neutral and see if the sediment dissolves. Also try leaving out one flavour ingredient at a time to see if one is causing the problem. If you are happy with the taste of your product then leave to settle out the sediment for a few weeks before filtering and bottling.
  10. TTB says to call it rye whisky the mash has to be at least 51% rye What official rules are there for Canada? I think I recall reading that there was no requirement as long as it tasted like rye!!
  11. I am in Australia but i think I might have a similar IBC. The thread looks like 2 inch BSP but not. I eventually noticed mine had a camlock groove just behind the thread. Try a 2 inch female camlock instead of the thread
  12. Thank you bcoutts
  13. gauging

    Hi Will, you have returned, I have missed your gems of wisdom. Would you mind writing out an example of the math for hitting the right proof when batching a liqueur? Thanks Pete
  14. I filmed this close-up through the sight glass, of a well setup grain bed on a lauter screen in my Son's brewery. See the small particles working their way through channels between the larger chunks of barley, they eventually get trapped after re-circulating several times. A very fine filter bed is gradually formed then the rest of the clear wort allowed to drain off. The grain bed is then sparged (rinsed) with hot water to wash out the last of the sugars. If too much vacuum is pulled on the bottom outlet the grain bed can collapse and the channels between the grains get squashed shut and filtration stops. Too fine a grind will not lauter well because the channels between the grains are too small
  15. I don't use it any more for rye. It was very messy and took up too much space in my small mash room. Grain solids fed to my sheep without further processing. It needed pressing somehow to get more liquid out. Next experiment is to take some mash to local winery and put through their belt press, once they have finished current harvest. I still use the vibroscreen to separate fermented apricots and cherries to keep solids and especially pips out of the still. Does a fantastic job for that.
  16. I finally worked out how to post the video of my vibroscreen (I hope) For my process it still left too much liquid in the solids. I was trying to salvage as much liquid as I could because this was pre fermentation
  17. That is amazing how many barrels you can fit in that small space. I watched for about 1 minute and saw 6 roll in and they hardly took up any room
  18. Please explain "ethanol blockage" You did try a couple of posts back but it doesn't satisfy my scientific curiosity.
  19. gauging

    Meerkat who wrote Alcodens is a regular contributor to this forum. He is working on a calculator for that problem. My suggestion for the moment is to record by mass exactly what you add, then add, then add until you get the correct proof. Next time you make a similar batch you should be very close first time.
  20. The manually operated lift forks are great in a small space. I have one similar to the link above. Also good for lifting drums to syphon out.
  21. Taste and nose the spirit regularly. Get the cubes/chips out when you think it has enough. Time taken will vary with temperature, variations in temperature and even air pressure to a small extent. If you think it has become over oaked then add some spirit. If you have some spirit that has been off the still for some time that would be better as spirit does mellow even without oak. Also if you are trying to rapid age I suggest you take a much larger heads cut. Those highly volatile compounds you remove are similar to the "angels share" that barrels lose over time. ie. the angels share is mostly volatiles you don't want, they get the trash.
  22. It was black oily droplets floating on the surface that really put me off. The smell and taste of that was nasty. Not the bitter almond smell that is associated with cyanide but it could have been hidden under the other smell. Have run more batches since then and all good when no pips in the still.
  23. Fork lift as above. Syphon over top of your raised tank or hose on tank valve. If you don't have a motorised fork or are short of room, a cheap option is hand operated one. See photo attached. Cheapest option is a bucket and funnel
  24. Agree There are 2 tubes, usually the hot vapor spirals downwards through the inner tube and cold water travelling up through the outside, but they can be with hot vapor in outside tube and cooling water inside.