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junglejimmy

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About junglejimmy

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  1. pH buffer / stabilizer suggestions

    I've been experimenting with an all unmalted grain recipe for the last couple of months. Have been using enzymes for saccharification, namely alpha amylase and glucoamylase. I have also been using RO water and adding minerals to build my own water profile. The results have been great, however the final pH is really low at pH 3.3 and the wash is taking a very long time to reach final gravity. I think I need to add a buffer / stabilizer so that the pH doesn't crash so much. I know beer guys use Five Star 5.2 stabilizer, however I have heard that it add 100ppm of sodium, which an effect taste. Are there any other commercially available solution? Any suggestions? Thanks!
  2. Steam or Electric?

    Hey guys, So we are thinking about upgrading to a 12" 16-plate reflux still. I think that a 200 Gallon boiler would be sufficient. At the current time we are running a 8" 8-plate still on electric. SO if we were to choose steam we would also have to invest in a boiler. If we were to stay with electric would it be possible to run a still of this size? what would be the power requirements? As in how many 15kW heating elements do you think it would require? Thanks
  3. Removing color from natural oak aged white rum

    From their infosheet they have 4 activated carbons suitable for rum. Two in powdered form (Norit sx plus & Norit DX10) and two in Granular form (Norit pk 1-3 & Norit gcn 830 plus). DO you know which would be most suitable for removing color but still retaining the taste? Also, does the granular carbon you use remove the color? I'm still wondering whether its the phsical form of the carbon that removes color or maybe its the treatment (acid wash) that is the main factor.
  4. Removing color from natural oak aged white rum

    So i plugged "Norit" and "Activated Carbon" into google and it came up with cobotcorp. They specialize in activated carbon for the food and beverage industry, so i'm guessing that's the one. I'll give them a buzz and hopefully we can come up with a solution. Thanks.
  5. Removing color from natural oak aged white rum

    I cant find "Norit" in the members list. Does he have a website for the company he works for?
  6. Removing color from natural oak aged white rum

    Thanks for the imput guys. Those are some things that I haven't thought about. After reading a lot about Bacardi they say their process is to ferment on molasses (no mention of sugar), distill using a reflux column (no mention of the number of plates), carbon filter, age in natural oak barrels for a year, then carbon filter to remove the color, then blend. I sounds like a complicated process, and I know i wont be able to get it exactly the same. I will be happy if its in the ballpark. I feel like the taste at the moment, with the oak chips, is in the ballpark. Its the color that is the problem.
  7. Hey guys, I'm in a bit of a pickle. A few months back my boss approached me and said he wanted me to make a white rum that could be a substitute to Bacardi, which could compete in house rum market. I've never made rum before,but i told him I could do it. Couldn't be that difficult......right? So fast forward a few months later, countless hours of research and a few failed attempts, I am now the stage where i am happy with the taste. I am using a half molasses half sugar wash with ec-1118. Striping it and then running through our 4 plate column still. After that i filter it and age it on natural oak chips. After a week on the chips it tastes amazing. Smooth and creamy with a hint of vanilla. Its at this point i am a little bit stuck. I have tried few methods of carbon filtering, but so far the color still remains. I ran it through our system we use for vodka, which is just a water filtering machine with a carbon filter housing. No luck with this method as the color was still there. I'm thinking there might not be enough contact time, so then I used pulverized carbon and added it to the rum. I filtered out the carbon, however the color still remains. Is there a special method to remove the color? Maybe even a special type of carbon that I need to be using? Any input would be greatly appreciated as i would love to get my boss and the sales team off my back.
  8. Filtered Water for grain mash

    Ah ok. That puts an emd to that little experiment. I know the mash environment needs to be acidic for the yeast. Disnt realise it needed a pH buffer. So then my next question would be, what is the ideal final pH for a wheat based vodka? I've read that the ideal final pH for wheat beers is in the high 3's or low 4's. Is that what I should be aiming for?
  9. Filtered Water for grain mash

    So we recently got a band new reverse osmosis filter system that we use to dilute our vodka. I wanted to try an experiment using the filtered water in the mash, but I have come across a problem that has got me stumped. That is, the pH of the resulting mash is extremely low during fermentation. We usually use spring water for our mash that is very basic (8.5pH). We add citric acid to our mash to it down to about 6.0pH. The filtered water has a starting pH of 6.6, so very little citric acid is needed to bring it down. However, about 2 days into the fermentation I measured the pH and it was 3.2pH. That seems very low to me. Can anyone please tell me what they think is going on with the chemistry. Some things to note: Mash consists of half white winter wheat, with half sugar enzymes have been added to the wheat to extract the sugar the temperature here is quite high 33C (91F) in the daytime Im using a pH pen with auto temperature compensation to mesure the pH
  10. Orris root types

    Hi, I've been in the process of creating a house gin and I am relatively happy with the formula I have developed. I have come across one problem that you guys probably know all too well, and that is flavor changing dramatically with time. I've been using Angelica as a fixative but I feel its maybe not as effective as orris root. In my local area the typical orris root varieties ( Iris germanica, Iris florentina, and Iris pallida ) are hard to find and I want to try and avoid importing to save on cost. In my area there is a variety which is abundant and cheap called Iris domestica (Common name: Blackberry lily, Leopard lily). Its primarily used in Chinese medicine. If I were to use this as a substitute do you think it would still have fixative qualities? Thanks
  11. Split column design

    Thanks for the info guys. your still look great. I do have another question however. If we were to purchase a 12' column with 16 plates, what would be the optimal pot size for a 8 - 12 hour run with a 40% ABV charge? Thanks
  12. Split column design

    So after a bit of research I have discovered that both the 4 plate column and the 16 plate column can both be used, in conjunction, for a vodka run. My next question would then be how is the operation procedure different from running a single column with a single dephlegmator? My best guess would be this: Bring the boiler up to strike temp Have the dephlegmator fully open on the first column (4 plate) Stack the first column with alcohol Gradually close the the first dephlegmator on the first column so as to stack the second column Have the dephlegmator fully open on the second column for 100% reflux keep the system in equilibrium for a period of time. gradually close the second dephlegmator to start releasing the heads Is this in the ballpark guys?
  13. Split column design

    Hi, So we have been running a Still Dragon Single 8' Column attached to a 200L boiler for about a year now. At the present time we are almost running it around the clock to keep up with demand. We would like to invest in a larger still and after some research i have seen that most of them are Split Column Stills. The split column stills featured on Artisan Still Design look amazing, but I am a little perplexed as to how they operate. Is the first 4 plate column used for rums and whiskys, and the second 16 plate column used for vodka? or are the first and second column used in conjunction to give a total of 20 plates for Vodka Production? Thanks
  14. Making inexpensive house gin

    Hi, As the title suggests i am in the process of making a cost effective house gin for the bar and nightclub market. I have my recipe all figured out and I am happy with the taste, but I have run into a few problems with the maceration and distilling technique. The first being the cloudiness issue. I know discarding the heads is a way to reduce the cloudiness, but i have found to get a truly clear gin I have to discard a lot. Is it possible to keep all of the heads and just filter the oil and cloudiness out? If so what size filter would accomplish this without any loss in taste? Also, as I would like to save money and reduce waste, what temperature can I collect to without compromising the taste? So far I have been collecting to 90C but I feel I could go higher. Thanks Guys
  15. I want to develop some ready to drink vodka mixes similar to Smirnoff ice, Bacardi breezer etc. I have developed some great recipes, but as these recipes contain real fruit juice I have come across a bit of a problem. The problem is preservation. The first recipe I developed is a vodka lemonade similar to Smirnoff ice. The components of this drink all mix to create an environment that I think would be hard for bacteria to grow. Lemon juice (citric acid), sugar and vodka. However if stored for a long period I am afraid of spoilage. Most soft drinks and juices add a preservative called sodium benzoate. I am not sure if this preservative is suitable in this case, if it is sufficient or how much to add. Does anyone have any experience with preservatives of this kind. thanks
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