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Showing results for tags 'Condenser'.
Found 17 results
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ASKING $50,000 OBO Never been used! Located in Tennessee, must pick up
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Condenser and Evaporative Chiller for Sale - $8000 Below are pictures of two pieces that we used together at our distillery with a 500 gallon pot still. The condenser was designed and built by us about three years ago. This unit has 52 copper ½” condensation pipes enclosed in a stainless jacket that is approx. 52 inches tall and 17 inches across. It is mounted on a rolling table with a foot pump that allows the condenser to be raised high enough for the parrot to empty into a standard 275 gallon tote. The parrot connects under the table top with a 2” tri-clover and a quick release pin. When used with the evaporative chiller, spirit run production was approximately 33 gallons per hour. We used a 4” swan arm coming out of the still. The evaporative chiller removes 150,000 BTUs per hour with a water loss rate a fraction of one percent for each cycle. We hooked the chiller up to the condenser with flexible PVC pipe (included) and solid PVC pipe. This chiller, when run without heat applied to the condenser cooled the water to about 12 degrees F below ambient. When running the still wide open, the cooling water exited the condenser at a consistent 30 degrees C. The chiller was purchased about three years ago from CTS. Between the two units, we have about $15K invested in parts. Initial Construction Size Relative to Human Final Assembly Quick release parrot on Table Parrot close-up Retrofitted with Copper inlet and outlet pipes CTS Evap Chiller on rolling platform. Flex PVC connections -
Hey, It is widely accepted that distillate should be collected straight off the condenser at 15-20°C (60-70°F). My problem is that the water coming out my tap are usually around 30°C (85°F), so there is no way I can bring the distillate down to the desired temperature. What is the best (and least expensive) method of bringing the water temperature down before it reaches the condenser? My setup includes two alembic stills: 250L and 1,000L. Thanks!
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The biggest question I have about our new still is how to clean the condenser and lyne arms between the pot and columns. It is a 1000L vodka still with 20 plates. The plates and the pot are all on the CIP system. However, the condenser and spirit path between the pot and columns are not. We were told by the manufacturer to clean it by running tails through it. This seems like the wrong answer to me, considering the oils from the tails are mostly what we are trying to clean in the first place. I have a plan to rig up a line from the CIP pump right into the point where spirit leaves the condenser, but wasn't sure if I am missing something, or am mistaken about the cleaning powers of a tails run. As always, thanks for the help!
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For Sale: 8" Crystal Dragon Dephlegmator 4" Condenser Parrot Original Price: $5,748 Asking Price $3,000 obo http://stilldragon.com/index.php/8-procap-crystal-dragon.html
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Hi all, I'm looking for a thermowell and digital temp probe for our Artisan Still dephleg water and column temps. The unit is going to Swede's distillery control box. I think it's a 24v, 3-wire signal. This is a replacement unit - the original came with the still and has a sticker for model #, mfc, etc but doesn't actually have a model # or mfc or anything else.. Thanks in advance. I can add pictures of the unit later if needed.
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I have been chewing over a question for nearly a decade now and, frankly can't come to a balanced conclusion. I would like to hear others' input on this: What is the benefit of a tube-in-jacket condenser system over a traditional worm/coil and tub setup? I have worked hands-on in dozens of distilleries over the years and beyond a doubt over-boil vapor release situations, that being where a loss of water pressure or similar coolant flow event, have been the most common and dramatic safety issue I have seen. I would bet that any distillery operating for more than 6 months has seen a vapor release of some sort due to the design of tube-in-jacket systems. I have brought this to numerous manufacturers and have been met with both incredulity and acknowledgement of the problem. A few have even offered reasonable, low-cost safety backup systems such as external vapor venting as a standard feature (looking at you, @Southernhighlander). For the most part, however, I don't see any system redundancy or failsafes in the vast majority of distilleries I visit or manufacturer designs I see. So back to my original question. What, if any, specific and unique benefit does tube-in-jacket have over a coil designed with the same throughput rate? Let's do this, nerds.
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Couldn't find a good thread about this topic, so I figured I'd start one. What are people using to cool their condenser/dephleg on their spirit still? city water? recirculation? glycol? I'm weighing my options and would love to see what people have found to work best!
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FOR SALE: Artisan 200mm 20 Plate Vodka Column Condenser ... ATTENTION: WE HAVE DROPPED THE PRICE.... NOW SELLING FOR $39,000... originally $49,000. Two 165 gallon ported and insulated pots. Includes: - Platform with stairs & rails - (2) Radial gas burners - (1) Extra dephlegmator - (1) Extra condenser bottom - (1) Parrot - Interconnecting pipe More photos available upon request. For more information please e-mail kcurrie@southerntierbrewing.com Photo 8.pdf -
We're working on putting a closed chilled water loop in place, but since it's taking us longer to get going on than we'd planned, we're going to go ahead and get started by hooking up our city water supply to the still condenser and dephlegmator just so we can start production. For those of you that are running your Vendome condenser off of city water, what size pipe do you have running to your condenser input? We have a 500 gallon pot still system, and the condenser input opening is 1-1/2". On top of that, Vendome only specs a working pressure of 15psi. I don't feel that running 1-1/2" copper pipe to the condenser is necessary (not to mention it's $$$), and if I can choke it down to maybe say 3/4", I think I'll get closer to their recommended operating PSI. Thanks for any thoughts and recommendations. -Matt
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Hi Folks We're potentially in the great position whereby we can pump harvested rainwater from a single tank, run it through a worm tub condenser then return it back to the same collection tub. I'm aware that seasonally the temperature of water coming in will vary and therefore we might need to regulate with a chiller....and of course the returning water will heat up the supply tank. But by how much? 1) The supply tank is approx 8000 litres 2) Our worm tub will hold approx 150 litres 3) The gin still will be charged with a maximum of 200 litres wash @50% 4) The still will run for approx 4hr 30min If anyone out there is using a worm tub, whats the temperature of your water coming off and importantly how does this compare to the temperature of your new make spirit. Would we better just installing a second tank and simply transfer cooling water between the two (there would be a cool down period as we won't initially be distilling everyday. Cheers
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condenser water temperature and effects on distillate
MG Thermal Consulting posted a topic in Brandy
I would think variables like entering coolant temperature, flow and the exiting temperature of the product all would have some effect. Engineers designing chemical condensers are usually very particular about all of the above. -
300 Gallon cypress tank / Worm for Hi Ridge Distillery in Alabama. 1.25" US copper worm and parrot, paul-csa confederatestills.com New Compressed (zipped) Folder.zip
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300 Gallon Cypress tank with 1.25" copper worm-100' of US made copper. Parrot is also 1.25" with heads & tails drain. Tank has 2" center overflow return drain, 1.5" main tank drain, 1/2" cooling water inlet to feed ring, 3/8" copper vent to parrot, Tank will sit on a HD 4'x4' stand which is already built and waiting in Alabama. paul-csa confederatestills.com
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Distillation Equipment NOTE; Additional photos posted in thread) Serious Inquiries Call me at (505) 440-8666 or email for additional questions photos etc Cabezon118@gmail.com I had intended to build a still and start up a distillery operation when I sold my bottling company. I decided to go fishing instead. The following is basically everything you need to build a still except the column. All items are available in Cedar Crest NM approx. 30 minutes from Albuquerque and 40 minutes from Santa Fe. Items are listed in the same order as the photos. I am asking $15K one buyer takes all. Equipment is “as is where is” The descriptions below are accurate and not exaggerated as far as condition/quality goes. 1. 160 gallon stainless steel double walled steam jacketed with 5 inch flange on top and 5 inch sight class on top. Domed top and bottom. Can be fitted with 5hp Mixer (see below). Wall thickness of stainless steel is approx. 5/8 inch. All product fittings are 1.5 inch sanitary fittings. Tank is food grad with electronic sensor to avoid over filling. Legs are adjustable to a sloped floor. Overall tank dimensions including legs 68 inches tall X 40 inches wide. Excellent Condition (photo -1 &2) 2. 125 gallon stainless steel single walled tank 5 inch flange on top and 5 inch sight class on top. Domed top and bottom. Can be fitted with 5hp Mixer (see below). Wall thickness of stainless steel is approx. 5/8 inch. All product fittings are 1.5 inch sanitary fittings. Tank is food grade. Legs are adjustable to a sloped floor. Overall tank dimensions including legs 60 inches tall X 32 inches wide. Excellent Condition. (photo-3) 3. Gas fired low pressure steam boiler Weil McLain model - Gold CGa CP3943601. (photo – 4) 4. 180 gallon single walled stainless steel tank with agitator motor (1 HP). Simple tank with a lid. Could be used to make a mash-ton or fermenter. Good condition. (photo 4) 5. Variable speed explosion proof Lightning Mixer model XJC 30, Has an assortment of three paddles for stirring all stainless steel for product contact. Food Grade. Excellent Condition. 6. Condenser Column 52 inch long X 6 inches wide all stainless condition all sanitary 1.5 inch tri-clamp sanitary fittings. Excellent condition. Very efficient and does not allow product loss. Excellent Condition. Only used to chill water. (photo 5) 7. Pipe approx. 60 ft. 1.5 inch stainless steel pipe with sanitary fittings throughout. Many small pcs - elbow, T’s, Inline temperature gauge, many air actuated valves and lots of tri-clamp fittings. (Excellent Condition). Used only for 96% Ethanol and water. 8. 6 sets of stainless Steel Shelving /Racks. Length varies from 4 ft. to 8 ft. long 4 sets of shelves on each unit. Good Condition. 9. Two Stainless Steel cylindrical filter housings one three ft. long x 6 inches wide with 1.5 inch sanitary fittings in and out. Second one is 24 inches long X 6 inches wide 1 inch NPT in and out. Excellent Condition 10. Small air compressor capable of driving all air actuated fittings and Diaphragm Pump (below). Excellent Condition. 11. Approx. 200-300 ft. air hose. Some Good Condition some excellent condition 12. Metallic Air Operated Double Diaphragm 1:1 ratio Pump. Ingersoll Rand ARO 1 inch, model – 66610X-XXX-C. Rated to 35 gpm. Excellent condition. 13. Three (3) Step Stainless steel steps on wheels. Allow easy access to top of tanks Excellent Condition 14. Plastic Utility Sink Good Condition 15. Two (2) ton Pallet Jack Good Condition. 16. Analytical balance 3 decimal places (grams) and various lab equipment. Good Condition 17. Various items available for the taking such as smaller tanks, 1L bottles with 38 mm screw caps, Tubs, Carboys, Buckets, tools etc…
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Hey guys, I'm wondering if someone with some copper experience can help me with a project I'm doing. I'm replacing the condenser coil supports in our still. Currently they are made of wood and have severely rotted away. Nowadays Prulho makes all the supports out of copper pipe and we would like to do the same. Here is a picture of how they do it. I have been in contact with Prulho and they say that the dents are made with a disc grinder. My question is how can a disc grinder make those dents without cutting through the pipe? As you can see the dents go much further in than the thickness of the pipe which you can observe by the bolt holes. Any ideas? Or a better way of doing it? Cheers, Connor
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I recently acquired some parts from Trident Welding / Made in Maine to upgrade my little Colonol Wilson still, and I know Jesse would like some feedback. I finally got a test run in this weekend. I had previously homebrewed a better-than-original condenser for it - but it was leak prone. So I'd already bypassed the original condenser and moved to sanitary fittings on the still. And while the V1.1 of the Colonels' parrot was functional and coppery, it also had a couple of drawbacks, mainly along the connection to the condenser. So here's the pic of the new setup. The condenser is 7 tubes. Nice and sturdy. Smooth welds. The spirit temp was within a degree F of the indicated inlet water temp. I'm still working on my homebrewed chiller, but the condenser worked nicely. The parrot is a requested variation of Jesse's normal design. I asked for a sanitary ferrule on the vent. I put a screen gasket over it and use a clamp to hold it loosely in place. (I like screens. The funnel has one, too.) I also asked for a sanitary ferrule on the base of the standpipe. I put a clamp to 'beer nut' adapter on it, and then a Micromatic valve. A relatively inexpensive way to have a nice drain to clear the parrot between cuts. The cup doesn't quite drain completely - but it's only a few mLs. I'm pleased. The sale was easy, delivery quick, and I thought the pricing more than fair.
