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Found 14 results

  1. *Sold* Anton Paar Snap 51, $3,500. This handy item is like-new in box, and unused except for a handful of test proofings, we find we are not using this at all since we are using different equipment instead. Includes manual, extra tubing, padded carry case, item as shown. Can ship to you FedEx from Seattle area. Compare to $4,170 to $4,210 elsewhere.
  2. When determining proof when a spirit has in excess of 400 mg/l obscuration are you required to follow this method or can you simply distill and proof using a lab still? Video referenced is determining proof obscuration by evaporation. Thanks,
  3. I am looking for a better way to adjust proof in liqueurs. By better, I mean better than add water, re-distill sample for obscuration, repeat, etc. I'm not that smart, so an example would be great. We proof our basic spirits with hydrometers, by weight, Can someone walk me through the correct way to take a small sample and figure out how much water to add to bring it down to a specific proof? I understand that we would still need to re-distill the end product to ensure it is, indeed, the correct proof. Thanks, Todd
  4. I'm curious to see what everyone is using for final proofing before bottling. I realize it would be ideal to use an Anton Paar 5000 meter but i cant imagine everyone has the budget for that. Just wanted to see what other distilleries were using. -hydrometer (if so what brand have you found that you like?) -weight -Anton Paar hadheld etc. -any others?
  5. Hey, everybody! Quick question to ponder (and any help is appreciated): We've been running a 18-plate Crystal Dragon StillDragon with 100 gallon kettle for our vodka/NGS production. We've had this setup since August of last year and have been able to consistently hit 95.625% ABV on each of our 100% wheat low wine runs. However, the past two days, for some reason, we're struggling to even hit 95% ABV. Here's our basic rundown: 500 Gallon, 100% wheat mash typically at 1.088 SG. Fermentation to 1.000. Stripped to approx. 125 gallons of low wines at 36% ABV. Proofed down to 25% ABV with tap water then fed into the kettle. Full reflux for one hour, then slowly exiting reflux into heads. This typically gets us to 95.5% ABV by the time we hit hearts (about an hour into distillation). However, these past two runs, we've done the exact same thing we've always done. The temperature of the kettle is the same, amount of water and temp of dephleg is the same. The only thing that's changed is the proof is struggling to get over 94.5 and there's a slight cloudiness in the final distillate. Any help is greatly appreciated!
  6. Hi all, I'm looking for a straight kjeldahl attachment. I've got one with a 75* bend for connecting directly to the condenser but I'd like a straight in, straight out option like you see in the TTB videos. This is for distilling alcohol samples to remove obscuration during proofing. Like this but with straight glass for connecting via silcon tubing or corks (50 seconds into video). I don't have a lot of counter space and my current setup takes the entire table.. -NAB
  7. We are selling our proofing tank. It is a great, easy-to-use setup. The sale includes a 480 gallon single wall stainless tank with 1.5" sanitary drain and valve, a GSE 335 digital readout with a relay (to turn water on/off), and 4x 2,500 lb load cells. We currently weight out to 0.01 but that can be adjusted for your preferred resolution. $3,500 F.O.B Columbia, Illinois 62236 For more info, please email adam dot stumpf at stumpysspirits dot com
  8. Hey guys, Any advice on getting < 190 on a 15 plate reflux still? It's been such a pain for me, but I would like any tips on making it a bit easier to achieve. I normally add about 315-330 gallons at around 125-135 proof, heat ups are about 2.5-3 hours, all plates active and bubbling, easy to pull 188, that last few points though are a pain, any advice?
  9. I am developing a computer program for blending of liqueurs containing sugars. I do not run a distillery myself, but I understand one possibility that I should cater for as an ingredient in liqueur production is an infusion made by soaking fruit in rectified spirit. What proof range is used for the rectified spirit? An internet search found only DIY instruction for people who buy a bottle of vodka and make their own infusion at home. I have struggled to find information on how this is done on a commercial scale. Apart from the starting proof of the spirit, I am also interested in knowing how much water and sugar are extracted from the fruit together with the flavors. I don't want to steal anybody's detailed recipes - I only need to know the strength range the program must cover. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
  10. I've heard small amounts of glycol or glycerine can soften up your spirit. Was looking online for the answer, but adding either product will thicken up your spirit, how will this affect your ability to get a correct hydrometer reading?
  11. I'm looking at Proof and specific gravity hydrometers from here http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/H_B_Durac_Plain_Form_Glass_Hydrometer_ASTM_125H_1_000_1_050_SG_0_0005/WU-08297-80 They conform to ASTM and are traceable to the NIST/A2LA manufacturing facility. Any reason why these wouldn't work? Below is an expert from the TTB: § 30.24 Specific gravity hydrometers. Return to Top (a) The specific gravity hydrometers furnished by proprietors to appropriate TTB officers shall conform to the standard specifications of the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) for such instruments. Such specific gravity hydrometers shall be of a precision grade, standardization temperature 60 °/60 °F., and provided in the following ranges and subdivisions: ( B ) A certificate of accuracy prepared by the instrument manufacturer for the instrument shall be furnished to the appropriate TTB officer.
  12. Hey y'all, Doing some research concerning grappa production and I've found something that keeps popping up. Seems some producers water their grappas back to bottling proof in small doses over long periods of time, sometimes months. Is anyone out there doing this? Any resources out there explaining why this is done, and how it works? Thanks
  13. I've tried to find the answer to this by searching the forum and going to the gov't websites but I must have missed it somehow, so I'm just going to ask this even though I sound like an idiot. When are proof gallons calculated for determining the amount you have to pay for excise tax? More specifically, is this calculated before or after aging? It would seem awfully unfair if excise tax were paid on spirit before aging (but then again, the whole excise tax thing is awful anyway).
  14. Have you all noticed that when you proof your spirits there is a time needed to reach a final equilibrium? In my limited experience I found that the proof takes some time to reach its ultimate specific gravity. Using a hydrometer it seemed to me that my proof read differently right after blending compared to a reading made the next day. The proof would go down as compared to my initial read. I only have experience blending batches of a few gallons and not 100 or more like a lot of you. I am pretty sure I have read about this before, and it isn't a fabrication of my imagination. With that in mind, do you all have a minimum time you rest your proofed spirits before bottling? I'm not sure it matters assuming you know you will nail the proof you want, but I would imagine the volume changes a bit too and you need to get that right in the bottle also. Thank you, Mars
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