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  2. Bluebolt, our stills have copper defuser plate assemblies that maximize your copper vapor interaction (among other things). I came up with the design 7 years ago. Just one of my defuser plate assemblies guarantees 100% copper vapor interaction. Most of our stills have at least 2 defuser plate assemblies. We have glass bubble plate columns and we have the 26 gallon pots as well as 40 gallon pot belly pots. Our 40s cost less than our competitors 30 gallon pots. I had to have an emergency surgery yesterday. It will be 2 to 3 weeks before they will let me work in my office. However, I have 5 office staff so everything will be running smoothly as always. I have not been able to answer my emails since the surgery but I will be working from my bed on my lap top starting tomorrow. If you would like to talk about your needs, give me a call at my home number tomorrow 417-778-6100. Or if you would just like to order call 417-778-6100 and ask for Susan. Here is Susan's email address: susan@distillery-equipment.com
  3. Yesterday
  4. Thanks for the info! My current thinking is to look into a copper condenser if I can't shake the notion of sulfur.
  5. What ultimately happened when you applied and checked "yes" on alcohol, firearms, etc.? Did you pay any special taxes for doing so or are those taxes taken when you're actually producing alcohol?
  6. I had come across this study yesterday and it seems a copper condenser might be the best place for additional copper as well. Earlier above I said adding copper before the plates like in the kettle but I had forgot about that article. I guess I could always move forward with the glass and copper plates/caps and if I'm not happy with the sulfer level I could look into having a copper condenser made.
  7. There is a liquid level indicator on the doubler that tells the pump when to send the liquid out. In this case, I believe Stumpy sends it back to the beer well. There is a lot of good alcohol left in that thumper juice, likely much higher than 10 proof.
  8. I *suspect* the copper plates & caps will do the job. wrt copper. If you went to stainless you could electro-plate a copper layer in the interior - not hard to do. [for those who might care to pick fights, the rectification fluids & vapor are not electrolytic, and the joint is not exposed], but frankly the glass column is likely to be educational. I recently heard the Beam uses a stainless column but adds copper pipe stacked within the column at some unspecified plate. I can't attest to the accuracy. Odd but plausible.
  9. Thanks for the additional info and confirmation.
  10. I started with a 13 gallon 4 plate column. Had zero problems pushing it. i did eventually add an element for 9kw total and it was nice to have the extra power. Since then I’ve upgraded quite a bit and use SD Procaps which are incredible in their ability to go super slow or super fast. I am am a fan of using the 4”x4” stainless spools as plate lifts. I just don’t need a bunch of windows. Really just want them at critical points. As to copper and sulfides. I’m not convinced it’s as important as some make it out to be. If your copper ain’t black at the end of a run, then you don’t have a sulfide issue.
  11. Hi - extremely interested. Can you please provide contact information?
  12. I hate to tweak Silk's excellent contribution, but there are a couple advantages to "dual flow"/sieve (perf) plates over bubble caps, in some applications. Perf plates don't easily foul (given adequate hole size for the media) , so they can (must) be used in a stripping column for grist-in. Perf plates have lower pressure drop, making the product separation a bit more efficient. Somewhat higher efficiency (closer to a theoretical plate) - *IF* operated in a tight range of vapor flow - which is practically impossible for a non-continuous still. OTOH sources claim a 1.5:1 type turn-down ratio for a perf plate, vs a ~2.5:1 turndown for a bubble plate. Floating valve plates have a huge turn-down, up to ~8:1!!!, but more pressure drop, cost & fouling are worse. I've never seen small scale valve plates. == Yes, given your application bubble-plates are the obvious choice - for any small scale non-continuous rectification.
  13. Looking to purchase SaverGlass Distill'r Bottles if anyone has any available. Please contact me directly kcurrie@southerntierdistilling.com Thanks!
  14. Looking to purchase SaverGlass Distill'r bottles if anybody has any available!! Please contact me directly @ kcurrie@southerntierdistilling.com
  15. Looks great. How are the stripped low wines handled in the doubler ? I see how the low wines go in, the heads and hearts come off, but what about the completely stripped (prob under 10proof) liquid that is left in the pot still/doubler. How does that flow ?
  16. Bout made up my mind on a 4" glass Still dragon with the ProCaps...still a little concerned with sulfate removal with the only copper being the plates and caps but I guess we'll see. Trying to think of a way to add a little copper before it gets to the plates. Might be a waste of money. Not sure, any opinions on that would be great. Stilldragon has some nice 30 gallon pot belly kettles but they want $2300 for the kettle and the fittings. Can't justify that. They don't sell a 26 milk can and I think a 13 gallon will be inconsistent pushing a 4" column. Probably will look towards Affordable Distilling or Hillbilly for the can and electric heating.
  17. Yessir, the still is pulling more "heads" than required and we are actually recycling that product back to the beer well at the moment. At the end of the run, the user can concentrate those heads if desired and remove or simply continue recycling. Honestly, we've found that we like the distillate better when we recycle that stream for extended periods of time. Ya...don't get me started on Corson unless we can sit down in front of a bottle of bourbon and trade war stories over drinks! StillDragon is the POLAR OPPOSITE of Corson. Quality equipment and amazing service.
  18. Nice work. That *looks* like a lot of heads per the amount whitedog based on flow rate. Stumpy's had problems w/ his hardware supplier previously https://www.idahostatesman.com/news/business/article187541748.html
  19. We have a closed loop system that uses our pond as the cooler. Most of the time it's great but we are at it's limits now.
  20. We had a lot of great help from G&D Chillers. We went with an oversized reservoir that the spent cooling water returns to, as opposed to a separate tank. That way the returning hot water won't effect the temperature of the reservoir as much due to the sheer size of it. All the while a twin seven ton glycol chiller is cooling said reservoir, and will continue to do so overnight until it reaches a pre-determined temperature. Basically, it was more economical to have an enormous reservoir as opposed to a more powerful chiller unit.
  21. Hello folks, Check out the link below to see one of our continuous systems in action at @Stumpy's place!!
  22. Wanna personalize your iStill Nano? Now you can! https://istillblog.com/2019/06/26/personalize-your-istill-nano/ Regards, Odin.
  23. Hi, all I am trying to figure out if we can get by with a small chiller (e.g. 5 ton or less) and a big tank of cold water. Our water rates are quite high and we live in a village where everyone is very concerned about water consumption, so using a one pass system where we dump hot water down the drain won't really fly. Can someone out there check my numbers, since I'm really not sure if any of my assumptions make sense? For mash cooling: Assume we need to cool 300 gallons of mash (assume same thermal properties and density as water) from 150F down to 90F or so for pitching. This should use about 150,120 Btu (300 gal * 8.34 lb/gal*60F). If we use cold tap water (at 50F) and let it heat up on average to about (100F), we would need an empty tank big enough to hold 360 gallons of hot water, which we could use for mashing, cleaning, etc. Alternatively, we could use a small chiller to cool the water down overnight and start in the morning with 360 gallons of water at 50F. For condensing our stripping still: Assume we are producing low wine with 60% alcohol, starting with 300 gallon of wash at 10%. This should yield a maximum of 50 gallons at 60%ABV (20 gallons of water and 30 gallons of alcohol). The energy to condense is 8100 Btu per gallon for water and about 2400 Btu per gallon of ethanol. Therefore, condensing the vapour should take about 234,000 Btu. We'll need a little extra cooling to bring the temperature of the condensate down from about 180 to 70F, this should take about 45,870 Btu (50 gallons * 8.34 lb/gal * 110F). Our total cooling requirement is, therefore about 280,000 Btu. This would require about 668 gallons of water (assuming it starts around 50 and we let it warm up to 100F). If we cool the 668 gallons of 100 F water overnight (e.g. 12 hours) back down to 50F, we should need about 23,213 Btu/h or roughly 2 tons. Obviously, we would need multiple tanks and/or do some careful scheduling of our mashing and stripping. Does any of this make sense? Thanks in advance for your feedback! Mark
  24. Last week
  25. @Silk City Distillers At this point I'm sold on the bubble caps and will move forward that way. Of course, now comes in the question of glass columns instead of copper. I know you already utilize a Crystal SteelDragon. Have you found that just the copper in the plates is enough to eliminate your sulfides? I know for bourbon you're going to age it in a barrel anyways so you don't have to worry as much about sulfur notes but for rum that isn't always the case. Essentially I'm now trying to deduce whether I'm gonna go for a stainless kettle with glass column and 4 bubble cap plates or stainless kettle with modular copper column and 4 bubble cap plates.
  26. Yeah but who has 20 hrs to babysit a still. Much happier with end product from a strip then spirit run than I ever was with single pass.
  27. I hear low and slow can get it done for some. We will see. Seems like I see several people have success with single runs and rum more than other spirits but that may be confirmation bias at play.
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