Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/07/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Inhibited Sulfamic acid is one of the very best for this application when dealing with carbonates and silicates from hard water. I have found it to be Superior in performance to many, For SS you can also use 5 Star Acid 5 or 6.
  2. 1 point
    I just take my shirt off. Everyone's a winner
  3. 1 point
    Check with @Southernhighlander
  4. 1 point
    This is exactly how our 3 plate Kothe still is setup. The manual bypass valve is important, as you need to be able to flow water to make sure the water retained in the dephleg is starting out cold and not hot from a previous run.
  5. 1 point
    Damn this bottle came with a better engineer's drawing than our still did 😂😂😂
  6. 1 point
    Ok... here is the basic design of the 6x manual tapered bottle labeling jig. Cut the diameter of the half circles to match your bottle size at the base where it will sit in the jig, and the neck. If you get a board twice as wide as you need, then cut with a hole saw and rip down the middle and you will have two of these so you can make two jigs. You don't want the bottle too snug, but you also don't want too much wiggle room. the spools for the labels are just plumbing parts. I used a couple of drawer pulls with a string across to line up where the bottom of the label goes. The only other thing to consider is how you will line up the 180 degree turn for the front and back label. Our bottles have a notch and I put a screw or long nail as a guide. Put on the back label for all six, and then turn them all 180 degrees, and affix the front label. I will look for a video. With two of these and a 6x pneumatic bottle filler and three people working the line, we can bottle about 150 per hour. Not bad, but definitely not a long-term system if planning growth.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    You need to buy a commercial cream base to use in your formula. Or just get a whole bunch of Rumchata, toss some extra alcohol in there, and rebottle it at twice the price...you're rich!
  9. 1 point
    I can tell you we use sodium carbonate, which definitely works, why what you're doing isn't working is beyond my scope.
  10. 1 point
    On that same coin don't fuck retailers with bad product or preloading and shitty undercutting out of your tasting room for special releases
  11. 1 point
    Do not agree to this you are being manipulated
  12. 1 point
    Here you go. Like I said, I went for usability and cost over looks.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    We charge fairly low, so that our aggregate product proof is near bottling proof, with minimal water additions necessary to adjust to final proof. Very much the opposite of many folks.
  15. 1 point
    Forget it. You'll need to buy very large amounts to make it worthwhile, and correctly dry the products. For example, my spice trader takes juniper berries which are typically 40% moisture and dries them to around 18% moisture. By the time you have everything in place (to process raw product) you have replicated a lot of what a spice trader does (at great expense). Definitely not worth it.
  16. 1 point
    I 'll be one just give me your address and a time when your not around .
  17. 1 point
    Waaahhh Mom, it's really hard. Do I have to really do it if I can scam the customer instead? Please don't make me? I've got an idea, lets encourage Amazon to apply for their DSP and then the totes can be shipped right to their warehouse where they can add the drops of flavor and ship it direct. They can brand it "One Click Craft". Lets just eliminate the middle man all together : You !
  18. 0 points
    Has anyone tried both software packages? They seem to have similar capabilities and I'm trying to choose between the two. I've heard only good things about Distill x 5 and mixed reviews of Whiskey Systems software.
  19. 0 points
    Based on what Ive read, I'm sure slow proofing vodka wouldn't hurt, but it's not as critical, because it has far fewer oils in suspention than something that is typically double pot distilled like a brandy, or has a lot of oils from botanicals like a gin.
  20. 0 points
    Pitching yeast into a mash that already has alcohol in it is stressful and damaging to them. At the beginning the yeast are building their membrane walls and reproducing and the presence of alcohol can affect this behavior. There are some components of heads/tails that can be consumed & cleaned up by yeast during fermentation, but I would add to an already working fermentation if that was the goal.
  21. 0 points
    My advice is to have this shitty distributor arrange transit of your product from their chosen freight forwarder in CA. If they're not offering this then they are somewhat shittier than most.
  22. 0 points
    The alcohol laws in the US are mind boggling.
  23. 0 points
    I totally agree with what you're saying about the local rate of water addition, but I think there is also a chemical transformation (or maybe it's physical, I am an accountant by education...) related to adding the water in small (slow) doses over a longer period of time. Each addition of water is accompanied by an infusion of oxygen from the mixing process and then this is given time to settle and normalize with the environment before the next addition. It seems to better protect the nose/perfume of the spirit. A cognac distiller told me the dilution must happen slowly enough that almost no raise in temperature occurs (for the mixture of alcohol and water). I certainly can't explain exactly what's going on, but my experience doing it both ways directs me going slowly, which aligns with the guidance given by enough distillers who I respect to think that it is a real phenomenon. I look at it as the difference between chopping garlic and smashing it. Scientists have proven why there is a difference in flavor (in the 90s there was a big boom in garlic research), but my great grandmother who couldn't read also knew that it happened without caring why.
  24. 0 points
    Slickfloss, I know 5 or 6 different ways to use them to help with distillation. However anymore I think thumpers have fallen out of favor with packed columns and plates being easily used or doublers more in fashion at commercial distillers. Being able to control energy very easily these days the other advantages of thumpers is also diminished. I'd love to hear your comments that you deleted and it surely wouldn't offend me in any way. This is the way we all learn! With that said, the only real use of thumpers I do anymore is to put the grains in them for a fast strip run that is crazy smeared and fully flavorful, but most of the stuff I personally make these days is fermented off grain so...
  25. 0 points
    They do have a certification, but it has very little meaning. I know of an ADI 'Certified Farm Distillery' that has never produced anything from raw material, their products are a GNS based vodka (no redistillation), a GNS based gin, and a pre-aged kentucky bourbon which they illegitimately label as distilled in Oregon. So these certifications are all kind of meaningless without enforcement. The only certification I can think of that has any enforcement at all is the certified texas whiskey program https://texaswhiskey.org/
  26. 0 points
    I've worked at two places that dilute from still strength to bottling strength in a day or two, and a place that takes 4-6 weeks. My organoleptic experience is that there is a significant quality impact to diluting brown spirits like whiskey and brandy rapidly. Taking time to do it might be a luxury, but we produce a luxury product and an extra month is negligible if it's already waited 4-6 years in barrel. Tank stratification was an issue at one place where the gin was proofed rapidly in a 2000 gal tank, but thorough mixing is required whether you are diluting a small amount or a large amount, fast or slow.
  27. 0 points
    DD: I have never and would never run as you describe. Not saying you can't or don't do it successfully but I don't and would never even try. I originally was going to respond to all the things you said, but deleted it. OP: Sounds like you had some success omitting the thumper for the stripping run, but what you're doing is still not the best if what you're looking for is flavor. What type of spirit are you trying to make? The set up you have described can be modified to be more intelligent for a whiskey/rum stripping run if thats what you're doing. When you run with that set up you're stripping and applying reflux, which is going to have flavor consequences. What proof do you pull at running your strip as described? Lets go back to my original advice. What if we used low wines in the thumper.
  28. 0 points
    It's a Bain Marie with electric elements. I talked to the still manufacturer and he confirmed that if still is less than 30% full the surging will get worse and worse. I filled it with hot water before trying again, and it ran super smooth. The agitator is vertical, not offset, and there is a fin on the side that works as a vortex breaker. My theory is that if the liquid drop below the fin, the vortex causes some sort of vacuum effect. I wish I had tried running it without the agitator to confirm my thinking.
  29. 0 points
    I didnt see, or take offence. many different ways to get a job done, everyone favors their own, thats just how life works.
  30. 0 points
    @DrDistillation I've heard the chain and cup arrangement you're describing called a "dipping dog", maybe fancy people call it by the french name. 😎
  31. 0 points
    Can I be so bold as to summarize? This is a common thought, but it's totally wrong. You can not control the temperature of boiling. The temperature the pot will boil at depends on how much alcohol there is. More alcohol, boils lower. You can only control heat input, this is, the SPEED of boiling. More power in, more vapor generated, but the temp doesn't go up. Less power may may the temp fall, but this is only after it's stopped boiling and producing vapor. Over the course of the run, the temp in the pot will rise, but this is a function of the alcohol being removed, and the boiling point increasing as a result.
  32. 0 points
    There is no video in the spoiler link. I don't know much about streaming shows but I think you should be able to get back issues on Disney + but don't know if it is there yet. Once you watch the show you will be able to see my process. Spent grain is fed to my sheep. When they are in the shearing shed their shit falls through slots in floor and eventually dries out. That is where Gordon the shit shoveler was put to work. Rye grain is sprouted (malted) in an industrial clothes dryer. A timer turns on several times a day and waters the grain and turns the drum for a few seconds for a few days. I load peat or "rapidly aged peat" into an old propane cylinder, once it is smoldering I introduce a small controlled amount of air into the bottom so it makes smoke only and doesn't start burning with a flame. The wet green malted grain in the clothes dryer now turns at regular clothes dryer speed and the smoke is piped into the middle. The wet grain tumbles through the smoke.
  33. 0 points
    Hi Eric, I have previously investigated US importation and thought it just too complex, other countries so much easier. I have now decided to make another attempt and have been in contact with an importer who I met at a distilling conference. I also have just started an independent bottling company for Tasmanian Malt Whisky which will give me more volume to ship. Cheers
  34. 0 points
    Absolutely. It’s a small cost to help keep good people.
  35. 0 points
    NM absolutely in the US sweet spot for swamp coolers. Out here in the northeast, it's like trading hot and humid, for nearly as hot, and twice as humid.
  36. 0 points
  37. 0 points
    In general, mixtures of two liquids will boil at temperatures between the boiling points of the two pure liquids and the boiling point will vary with the concentration. The ethanol-water mixture is a bit different in that it forms an azeotrope. From the first sentence above we would expect the boiling point (at atmospheric pressure) of a mixture of ethanol and water to be between 100°C (boiling point of pure water) and 78.37°C (boiling point of pure ethanol). In most cases this is true. However, a mixture containing 95.58 mass % ethanol will boil at 78.15°C, which is lower than the boiling point of pure ethanol. This is called the azeotrope. To really split hairs, it is called a minimum boiling azeotrope because you can also get maximum boiling azeotropes where the boiling point of the mixture is higher than either of the pure boiling points. The existence of the azeotrope is why we cannot achieve 100% ethanol by normal distillation. The lowest temperature occurs at the top of the column and for ethanol-water this would be the azeotrope temperature of 78.15°C and no matter how much taller you made the column you could never go beyond the 95.58 mass % concentration. I have attached a table of boiling point data. In addition to showing the boiling point at various liquid concentrations it also shows the composition of the vapour that is generated. Between 100°C and the azeotrope ethanol is more volatile than water and there will be a higher concentration of ethanol in the vapour than was in the boiling liquid. If this were not so, distillation columns would not work. The "VLE" in the title on the attachment stands for Vapour Liquid Equilibrium - sorry for the jargon. Carey and Lewis MF Mass and ABV.pdf
  38. 0 points
    I second Aaron. He is our agent too.
  39. 0 points
    So you run a 30 gallon boiler, but the run takes so long that it takes days? Wow, what power do you have, to heat the boiler and perform the run? And can you improve upon that? Substrate degradation is an issue you might encounter when turning the still off over night and then continuing the next day. The longer the total time in the boiler, the higher the risk of degradation due to over cooking, and the higher the risk of unwanted flavors coming over in your gin. Boiler infusion is more prone to it than vapor infusing your herbs. But in the vapor path, if a run actually takes multiple days, molding can become an issue. Your solution lays in the first paragraph of this post: look at power settings and if you can increase power to speed up the run. Regards, Odin.
  40. 0 points
    I think you'll get more overall intensity with the roast nibs. I'm actually surprised you got such deep color with raw nibs. It is possible you did have some Maillard reaction during the Soxhlet extraction. Keep in mind, when you distill, you are separating the flavor compounds based on volatility. High volatility flavors will come across in the distillate - low volatility (or non-volatile) flavor components will remain in the stillage. If you still have the stillage, do yourself a favor and taste it compared to the distillate. Mix the stillage and distillate and compare it back to your solvent extract. This is a hugely valuable exercise to understand the impact of distillation on flavors. What goes over, what stays. Lots of botanicals distill across "green" and lose a little bit of their soul, especially fruit. I always call out ripe blackberry as being the best example of this. The distillate tastes nothing like blackberry, I mean barely recognizable. Intensely green and chlorophyll - think fresh cut greens. The flavors that we recognize as blackberry are not necessarily volatile. The sugars, the acids, they don't distill over. So, if you want blackberry flavor, masceration is the way to go. Your soxhlet extracted product is not at all distilled, it's only hot-solvent extracted. Remember, the soluble flavors aren't necessarily all volatile.
  41. 0 points
    Did not understand the above comment. Please expand on this if you are only using beer as the coolant. Please can you post post a process flow diagram of your smaller unit running at 1.5KW.
  42. 0 points
    Ethanol, especially at cask strength, is a very strong sanitizing agent.
  43. 0 points
    That sounds like an interesting vodka. I love tasting lots of different spirits and judging them according to the merits of their identity. My favorite Vodka is Grey Goose and I like it neat but I rarely drink it because I personally like whiskey and bourbon and almost everything else better. I have tried many different vodkas with hints of flavors such as vanilla from certain types of wheat etc, but i like the more neutral, very fresh and crisp ones best. I like tasting light whiskeys and Canadian blended whiskeys and I have my favorites among them but I prefer more flavor and body then they impart. I enjoy 18 year Glenfiddich or Blanton's Single Barrel a great deal more. It sounds like your vodka with the whiskey highlights would be like an ultra light whiskey. I would love to try it. I'm one of those people that is crazy about trying new spirits of any type and new foods. Can I buy your products on line?
  44. 0 points
    Thank you everyone for your responses. It was actually a mistake that we made here at ground level. We were using a tube that was not rated to handle 190 proof alcohol. We were getting traces of the rubber in the alcohol and that was leaving the blue tint. Make sure everything you're using is rated for high proof alcohols.. Thank you for your help!!
  45. 0 points
    Joe - Sadly you completely misinterpret the data. While it could certainly be argued that 99.9% of your customers (those buying bulk spirits from you) do not care where their bulk products comes from, that is not the same as 99.9% of end customers "not-caring" about where the products originated. For example 80% of people who go anywhere on vacation bring home some form of Geographically branded merchandise. In the old days it was snow globes of the statue of liberty and T-Shirts, now it's more typically craft beer, wine or spirits. The wine industry is very strict about viticulture, fortification origin, etc and the beer industry is all local, but unfortunately Big Alcohol has embraced laws that obfuscate the actual origin of spirits to the detriment of the true craft / local centric culture. You even appear to veil the actual origin of some of the bulk products you sell on this very site, I would assume as an attempt to even further push the false narrative that what people don't know, won't hurt them. A self serving and self fulfilling prophesy that goes something like " If I dump enough cheap Bio-Ethanol on the system by pretending that it's ok with the end consumer, eventually every distiller in the country will have to stop making their own alcohol, because they will not be able to compete with the price points and margins of fake craft products ". I completely reject your assertion that 99.9% of "end customers" are either too dumb, cheap, or non-caring, to pay a premium for a hand crafted product. In fact that's not even the argument of the fake craft distillers who buy bulk products which they pretend are their own craft spirits. That actual hidden argument goes something like, " if the end customer is actually so stupid that fake distillers can dupe them into paying more, regardless of where the spirits actually comes from, then it should be considered "craft industry standard". This obvious because otherwise all " fake craft distillers" selling NGS Vodka, Gin and flavored liqueurs would be pricing their products the same as can be found on the bottom shelf of any inner city liquor store. Or better than that, at $1.20 +/- cheaper that "Barton'esq" Vodka, because "fake craft" distillers have the FIT reduction that large producers don't. But they don't do that. Why ? Because as long as they can, the fake craft distillers will charge the absolute maximum possible for the products they spend pennies on, provided that the customer doesn't find out. The success of craft spirits, craft beer and farm wine, is dependent on our ability to actually charge enough to offset the higher cost of production to make those goods in-house. All of that is contingent upon the trust that the customer places in our industry to not deceive them. We spend a lot of time and energy educating our customers about the process of making our spirits, and we hear time and again how they hear exactly the same things from another local "distiller". The only difference is that on the back of their bottles in really fine print it say "100% NGS". We, and I use that collectively for all real distillers, unwittingly support the fake distillery industry, and we need to figure out how to fix that. I am sorry that your attempt at running a true craft distillery failed, even thought literally hundreds of us are thriving. and I appreciate the concept of you as a distiller selling your bulk products into the base of the 3 tiered system and to manufacturers who do not pretend to be actual distillers. That market place is very price sensitive, and your products obviously fit that bill. At the same time, try not to destroy the industry that we chose to operate in, by pushing the false narrative that end customers are too stupid or too cheap to care about their purchase decision. What's on your label ?
  46. 0 points
    the problem is, that labeling does not clearly show the consumer who made the product. So they can not make an informed decision. I have many customers who have no idea that a distillery can buy alcohol and package it. I am no against people selling GNS or sourced whisky, just don't try and convince the customer that you made it. Be truthful and say you bought it, then let the consumer decide.
  47. 0 points
    If that is directed at me, sorry you feel that why. My reply was both serious and meant to be informational, and pretty much common wisdom among those of us that have actually tried to do what you are talking about (as I have). I tried to share what I learned from my experience as a craft distiller that makes a vodka (among other things). If you are a small craft producer, and you want to make vodka, then making it from an interesting source material, and distilling so that it has a mouth feel and a trace of flavor that the customer finds pleasant or intriguing, can be the features that make your product worth consideration to buy over mass-produced high-purity products that you can't compete with on quality or price (e.g., Absolut or Smirnoff). In that case, avoid turbo yeast, because it will generate poor flavor. And if you are just trying to make something without flavor by getting to highest purity, then it would be far cheaper to redistill bulk NGS. Again, no need for turbo yeast. You asked for people's advise, I gave you my advise (no turbo yeast) and why. If you don't want people's advise, don't come on this forum and ask for it. And there is no need to be rude when they give it to you. Honestly, my comments don't benefit me in any way, they were meant to benefit either you or others who might read the thread. This is not a private thread, so neither should you be trying to censor me or others for answering your public question. I suggest if you can not remain civil, you not use this site.
  48. 0 points
    CDEs comments are indeed good, but let me add a twist wrt gelatinization. First point - I am not addressing the issue of 'gums' mostly polymers of pentosan sugars that cause a lot of viscosity in the case of rye, for example. There are two categories of grain starch, amylose and amylopectin. Amylose is mostly 'straight' chain glucose with 1,4 bonds and typically ~300 glucose molecules in length. Amylose is soluble in water and doesn't cause anything like the viscosity problems of amylopectins. I write 'straight' however they are really a spiral (like DNA) and the spiral traps iodine for the iodine starch test. Amylopectin is not a real pectin (does not contain regular terminal methyl groups like fruit pectins), but a single grain starch granule may consist of ~300,000 glucose (up to 1.2mill units) units in a tree structure. The tree consists of segment of amylose (1,4 bonded glucose) typically around 18-22 glucose in length, which then split in a 'Y' with a 1,4 and a 1,6 bonded group. [imagine a 14-15 stage binary tree w/ 20-unit amylose units per segment] .The amylopectic is the stuff that absorbs the water in gelatinization. As the tree unfolds, the very polar water molecules become trapped between the branches of the 'Y' (the glucose hydroxyl groups are the cause). Amylopectin is the stuff that thickens a gravy or a mash as the starch granules swell, expand and trap water. Common grains consist of ~70-80% starch (maize is on the top end, most small grains closer to 70%) and the starch is typically ~25% amylose and ~75% amylopectin. The exception is that "waxy" grains and especially waxy maize can be ~100% amylopectin. So as you cook starch in a water slurry the amylopectin starch begins to unravel and trap water. If there is insufficient water then retrogradation sets in which the internal tangling of the amylopectins. A common example of retrograded starch is stale bread. Another is the 'skin' that forms on wet dough if allowed to dry. The retrograded starch is not susceptible to enzyme or acidic hydrolysis - it's indigestible and a distillers loss. So the practical deal is that w/o enzymes, grain grist may require 10x to 12x the grist mass of water to prevent retrogradation during cooking. That means to prevent retro' you can only add ~2/3rd lb of grist to a gallon of water! The solution to get to ~2lb/gallon is to add a little 'debranching' enzyme to the grain cooker and this can drastically reduce the amount of water needed, as the debranching enzymes cut apart the amylopectin tree and reduce the water trapped. Alpha-amylase is a choice. I can't speak to the proprietary 'visco' enzymes, but they are certainly the right direction to create normal cereal cooking. Enzymes don't directly cause or improve gelatinization (that's a matter of water, heat and pH) but enzymes are necessary for a practical thick cereal cook w/o excessive retrogradation. We should also mention beta-glucanases which assist in clearing the cellulosic "wrapper" from around the starch granule mega-molecules. This is fairly effective in malting, but for raw grists a rest may have some advantage. The starch will gelatinize at temperature in any case, but the glucanas residues can create a gel and add to viscosity.

  • Create New...