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  1. 2 points
    I 'll be one just give me your address and a time when your not around .
  2. 1 point
    Back to the original question here. As Paul says, its an easy backflush. Water rinse, caustic, water rinse, acid, water rinse (or leave it without rinsing in accordance with your passivation schedule). You can pipe from the cip manifold to where you attach the parrot with a transfer hose too. It'll clean the hose in the process too.
  3. 1 point
    The sizing of the reservoir depends on the mash cooling time plus the fermenter cooling as well, so if you had a 250 Gal mash load, a 500 Gal reservoir for that plus extraneous loads like fermenters. Recovery time should get done before you are ready to make a still run, so get the reservoir back down to around 50-55F before use again. If you are doing stripping runs, you'll have to upsize the chiller in some cases, especially if the tank starts to overheat- creeping above 70F before you're not close to the end of the strip run is not a good sign and you should adjust technique so you don't overheat the chiller. I am adding a 2-stage cooling technique for larger mash runs by adding a hybrid adiabatic glycol cooler which will give you performance of a cooling tower with a closed loop system, so I can run it along with the chiller to take the high heat out of the mash run which reduces the chiller size and overall KW. On a recently completed system, the savings winds up being 20 HP per hour of usage compared to cooling with a chiller. Hope to have pictures posted soon!
  4. 1 point
    https://www.katmarsoftware.com/alcodenslq.htm There's a video how it works. Also it's a free download to test it out.
  5. 1 point
    High solids = sugar or sweetners? If so, invest in Alcodens LQ and take the time to do the work up-front, to ensure your final proof is on target. Trial and error proofing (why so many people do this, I don't know) would be an absolute disaster if you are proofing via distillation. Your final proofing should only be a confirmation of the proof you expected out of whatever processing operations you were doing.
  6. 1 point
    I bought a Master Distillation kit from Pellet Labs: https://pelletlab.com/product/master-distillers-1000ml-distillation-kit/ I have sent so many of my distillers to them that I should be getting some sort of commission, but alas, no. You can also find them on Amazon with free shipping, if you are lucky. You do not need an Anton Paar, the gauging manuals are based on thermometer and hydrometer measurements. Buy a calibrated thermometer and calibrated hydrometers and LEARN HOW TO USE THEM CORRECTLY! Here is a video from Rudolph here as well as the instructions written out on how to to use a distillation apparatus: https://rudolphresearch.com/videos/distillation-obscured-alcohol-products/ BDAS is who I used for samples testing: https://bdastesting.com/ but find someone close to you as you have to pay to ship off your samples. Jennifer
  7. 1 point
    Geoman, 1) It is going to take much more than 30 pounds of fruit to make brandy. Of course, smaller scale makes distillation more difficult, because the space between heads and tails is so compact. Even the smallest test batches of fruit I do start with 500# - regardless of your still size. 2) Sugar. Good fruit brandy is just fruit, no added sugar. You need to concentrate the flavor of a huge amount of fruit to get something aromatic. in the case of your 30# peach v 7# white sugar, you are getting much more fermentable sugar from the sugar than the peach. That is going to dilute your fruit flavor. Also, when you don't use sugar, you won't need water. It will start gloop-y, but the fruit will break itself down during fermentation. 3) Fruit quality. Don't use rotten or moldy fruit. Crap in, crap out. This is going to increase the chance of spoilage in a big way - you can't see all the mold spores, and you won't be able to remove them. 4) Temp control - gold star for that. 5) Agitation - You might consider opening your fermentation vessel and punching down the fruit at least once a day. Solids will rise to the top, which will slow down your fermentation, but also increase the possibility of spoilage. Keep it all wet and well-mixed. 6) Pits - get em outa there. You might thinking about adding back a small percentage when you get proficient, but when you are starting out there are source of cyanide that you don't want to worry about. Agitation and funky fruit are the reasons for the ugly fermentation, but consider your base recipe - and try to just use fruit. I have some books in German I can recommend if you speak it, but in English "distilling fruit brandy" by Josef Pischl is a good, if not perfect, starting place. Happy distilling!
  8. 1 point
    This can't be a new problem, extending Bonded Area to warehouse/rick house. How do the Big Boys Bond those big barn rick houses in KY? In fact we're allowed to have locked high volume tanks outside with only a fence around them. I'd stack my conex's outside with a fence around them and add it to Bonded area.
  9. 1 point
    The variables are infinite. Build with the number of plates it takes to get to your highest abv desired. Then you can run less reflux, or more heat, (purposely inefficient) to get back down to the lowest abv you might desire. We bought from Paul, above. Five plates on an 8" diameter column. That's just what I decided was my sweet spot. With more or less reflux/heat we can get 70% to 90% abv. Not very important for collecting hearts in whiskey. But with fewer plates you will have trouble controlling abv in heads and tails for separation.
  10. 1 point
    This is a great discussion, really provides excellent overview of pros/cons and underlying process of a vacuum distillation for spirit production! Kudos to @Silk City Distillers and @Southernhighlander for taking the time to do so...
  11. 1 point
    By the way, looking at the photos, I don't see what in that would be eligible for patent protection, looks like a fairly typical vacuum setup. There is a tremendous amount of prior art in this area. If you think you've come up with something brand new, the flavor and fragrance crew probably did it 50 years ago.
  12. 1 point
    Southern highlander Congratulations on your success! I am happy to hear that you had the profits on my boiler to go onto to sell 17 million. Good for you. Sounds like the equipment business would have been a better business plan. Yes, the boiler was sold to me by Southern Highlander. The tag on the boiler Shows the manufacture date from Ajax. I am selling the boiler at a best offer with no intention to use the profits to start a distilling equipment operation. I’m just trying to make space to run a humble distilling Operation.
  13. 1 point
    I feel like there is enough drift on the handheld Anton Paar units that you need to recalibrate with distilled water every day. Wondering if anyone else has had the same experience. We use the DMA35 for quick, intermediate measurements, and we use Alcodens for all proofing/dilution calculations. More than once I've gone through proofing (which may extend more than a day) with Alcodens only to realize the DMA35 was off by a few tenths. Alcodens calcs are always laser precise, the density meter, not so much. Nearly every time when the measured proof had a deviation from the calc, it's just that the meter was off. Glass rules. If you are working with sugar additions (honey), start honing your lab skills, a digital density meter is not going to save you any material amount of time.
  14. 1 point
    We had issues early on with foaming in the fermenters and with slow stripping runs for Rye. We started by adding Beta-Glucanase to the mash in two steps, once during heat up when the Rye is gelatinizing at about 135f for an hour (milled to course flour and Alpha Amalyase added) and again after it has been cooled to 80f and is about to be pumped to fermenters (same time we add Gluco Amalyases). We do a higher cook temperature rest at 170f for 30 min for the corn we add (25%) and then take it up to 190f for half an hour to make sure any other nasties are held at bay, then malt is added during the cooling time at about 160f and another rest. Without the BG it was a lot thicker and we had more foaming and mashes that didn't finish where we wanted them. With the BG the foaming went down, we ferment much drier, and heat-up in the still was greatly improved. In the still, we do find that on occasion we have a rye run that will move very slowly. Typically this is because there is some scorching at the bottom of the pot (doesn't take much). To counter this we heat up the rye a bit slower than we do with Bourbon or Corn whiskey. Doesn't work every time, but we went from issues with every other rye run to 1 in 8. Super low tech way to help with foaming in the fermenter, spray PAM around the insides a few inches below the top. It helps break the foam while it rising and has saved me lots of time cleaning up in the morning.
  15. 1 point
    I'm sure that you misunderstood the manufacturer's recommendations. I've never heard of a cleaning run using tails. We recommend that our customers use heads or vinegar for the cleaning run. Of course the cleaning run is done one time to remove welding chemicals etc. Regular cleaning is not done during a run. It is done after the run is complete. For cleaning the line arm and condenser, you simply flood the column with the CIP, which floods the line arm and final condenser and comes out the parrot. It's that simple. If someone does not have CIP, they can flood from the parrot connection, flooding the condenser then line arm and then the column then draining into the pot.
  16. 1 point
    I filled out your survey. You shouldn't make 3 identical threads under different subject headings though, this isn't a massive forum where people won't see what you post, and it's just going to confuse things.
  17. 1 point
    Nice stack of dimes tig bead laid down by Steven Huffman. Steven is one of our 10 Sanitary Welder fabricators. Nice color.
  18. 1 point
    Illegal where? There is a whole planet worth of freedom outside the USA. Further, this is a third party’s video about their product. Try to relax a bit. Life will suck less.
  19. 1 point
    Jeff, Under a given set of conditions, there is an optimum cooking temperature and time to obtain the best quality of distillate and the best alcohol yield. I believe the question you have is about cooking small grains at high temperatures. There are a lot of ways to prepare grains for fermentation, but the simple goal of cooking is to gelatinize the starch granules, to make them available for hydrolysis by enzymes to convert to fermentable sugars but the complicated goal is to efficiently obtain proper gelatinization of starch, properly free up amino acids the yeast require, convert to fermentable sugars, reduce contamination and obtain a flavor extraction from the grains. The infusion mashing process we use, (simply cooking small grains at lower & proper temperatures), here at Wilderness Trail is designed around maximizing flavor first, energy second and time third. You do not have to boil your grains up to 210F and you certainly do not want to cook any of your small grains (wheat, rye, barley, malted barley, etc) in that range, again you can but it will not be the highest quality distillate you can obtain in the end if you do that. You can cook corn to 210F and it doesn't do much more than waste energy cooking it that high, part of the high heat is to sterilize the grains of bacteria and you take care of that around 190F and you only need to cook corn around 190F-185F for proper gelatinization, we cook our corn at 190F, it saves energy from going higher, we convert all of the available sugars and sterilize our grains, that is why you do it. For wheat the actual gelatinization range is 136F-146F but we start adding our wheat around 155-160F. For Rye the actual range is 135F-158F and we add and cook our Rye no higher than 160F for good reasons. Our Malted barley never goes in higher than 145F to preserve the enzymatic activity and to keep the grains intact. Think of it this way, gelatinization is like popping popcorn under water, its a dramatic change in the grains composition.. and throw in some smaller ductile grains like wheat or rye and you blow them apart under the same conditions as well as a lot of protein you don't want to break down. The reasons you do not cook grains beyond their proper gelatinization range is more about flavor than yield because if it is too rigorous, thermal decomposition of grain components will cause objectionable popcorn phenolic odors, yield is more impacted by poor grains, under cooking, poor conversion and yeast conditions. By using the infusion mashing process for small grains, you keep the branched chain amino acids and proteins in place with the grains that the yeast will use to properly make a flavorful result. If you boil your small grains, you are creating unbranched chain amino acids, degrading proteins and frankly blowing apart the flavor you are trying to extract. Small grains also get scorched very easy and there are Maillard effects that create all kinds of new chemicals from the high heat of small grains you don't want, plus why would you, the process doesn't require it. The yeast take these unbranched chain and Maillard effect's and turns them into higher alcohols (fusels) and other chemicals that alter the flavor and result of the beer & distillate. In short summary for our whiskeys, we cook our corn to 190F and hold that for 40 minutes, we cool to 160F by adding some water additions of the overall mashbill and add our wheat or Rye and hold that for 30 minutes, we add more water additions to get to 145F which is when we add our Malted Barley which rest for 30 minutes. We add the rest of our water additions for our ferm set and the chiller takes it down to 90F. We send that to our fermenters, which are set to hold at 85F for three day beer and 78F for 4-5 day beer. By shortening the initial cook of the total water, your initial cook is thicker, for us that is around 18 beer gallons and that allows you to use less energy to heat up the initial cook and reserve the rest of the water for cooling capacity as well as when you add your grains you are also using that to help cool your mash down. For example I mentioned we add our wheat at 160F but after the grains are added the temperature drops to around 150F+ and rest out to a little above 145F. We primarily make a wheated Bourbon but we also make a Rye Whiskey, which again even though the Rye will be the majority of grains, we still cook our smaller amount of Corn up to 190F and then cool it down to 160F before adding the majority of the mashbill of Rye. Infusion mashing is scientifically proven to offer a more flavorful distillate and smoother distillate, mainly for the reasons listed above. Shane Baker Co-Founder, Master Distiller Wilderness Trail Distillery
  20. 0 points
    https://homedistiller.org/
  21. 0 points
    Was really excited by vacuum distillation for a while. I still rotovap nearly everything when I get a free minute to do it. But, I think people put vacuum distillation up on some kind of pedestal as a pinnacle of distilling engineering, when it's really not the case. Vacuum distillation is just a tool, not necessarily better or worse than atmospheric distillation, just different. It's like the difference between SAE and Metric sockets, flat vs Phillips screwdrivers. They aren't so different, but why you might use one or the other certainly is different. Better to think of it as low pressure distillation, it's a continuum, from very low pressures to very high pressures. The pressure you would use in your low-pressure distillation would be based on what you are trying to accomplish by reducing the pressure. It becomes a little less magic when you realize it's still the exact same process, you are just varying the pressure of the process. The single biggest benefit for us, as beverage distillers, is the potential to reduce thermal decomposition of temperature sensitive compounds. It's the reason I still like using the rotovap to extract botanicals. Reduce the pressure, reduce the boiling point, reduce the vapor temperature, and reduce the impact of thermal decomposition - but only if what you are distilling is temperature sensitive. Also keep in mind that thermal decomposition isn't discriminate. It's just as probable that decomposition impacts bad flavors as well as good ones. So don't automatically jump to the assumption that by distilling in a vacuum, you get a better tasting product. Yes, for the most part, when distilling botanicals, you get a "Truer" extract. But it's not always the case, and it certainly isn't the case when distilling from a fermented wash (as opposed to running straight solvent extracts with neutral alcohol). Also keep in mind thermal decomposition is a factor of temperature and time. Which is the reason that most vacuum distillations are not carried out under periods of long reflux. Good example of this is the short-path distillation technique - the goal being the reduce the time under temperature as well. (Realize this means no columns, no plates). The other factor when it comes to temperature, is that higher temperatures aren't necessarily bad. Consider the fact that under the kinds of distillations we do, they are not straight/pure separations, but are reactive distillations. We are creating new compounds as part of the distillation process, and a major factor of that is heat. You can find lots of examples of products that utilize flame-heated stills in a very beneficial way, Maillard products, etc etc. Esterification of acids in a column or thumpers. Too much to dive in to here, just keep in mind that temperature isn't bad. Take those two factors together, and you can see how it's not necessarily a better/worse process anymore, but different. Now, also consider the fact that as your reduce pressure, vapor speed in the column begins to increase significantly. Column diameter needs to increase significantly to compensate for the high vapor speed. Plates begin to become less effective, because the higher differential pressures make it difficult for reflux to drain through the downcomers. Typically why you only see packed columns used for low-pressure distillations. I'll post the math once I have some time to show it, but you end up in a situation where the vapor speeds are so high that entrainment and flooding become major issues. You begin to require some fairly massively sized columns to reduce vapor speed. As you reduce pressure, control issues start to become big problems. Bumping, surging, stability of vacuum control, etc. The lower the pressure, the faster and easier it is to upset the system. For example, completely vaporizing all the held-up liquid in the column, puking up the boiler contents through the column in about 1 second time. As you reduce pressure, the equipment begins to get very expensive as the design pressures and material thicknesses increase. It's fairly easy to spend a small fortune building a system that has absolutely zero benefit over an atmospheric system. Love it for gin, I rotovap gin components all the time. You want a beautiful cucumber flavor? Vacuum distillation all the way. Sorry, but distilling cucumber at atmospheric, the end result is stewed sh!t in comparison. You want to emphasize light, delicate aromas? Flowers? Totally. Love big gin? Don't bother, heavy flavors act like a sledgehammer to your taste buds, you'll never taste the difference. Solvent extractions of botanicals are where low-pressure distillation really shines. Want to talk really low pressure distillation? I have the dry ice bath condenser for my Buchi. I can run acetone and dry ice in the condenser at about -70c. I've got a pretty wicked three stage lab pump that can pull single digit torr, and a really good vacuum controller than can hold it there without disaster. I've done botanical extractions as low as 10 torr. That's boiling at room temperature. No water bath at all, just heated by the air in the room. Just breathing on the boiling flask is enough to almost make it surge out. Super cool stuff, being able to extract the aroma of a flower at a temperature no greater than it would see on a warm spring day. I can distill even cooler, but it's a pain in the ass, since you need to cool the boiling flask, immerse it in cool water, and hope it doesn't warm up faster than you can finish the distillation. Sound awesome? Yeah, it makes great marketing, but really, the end result even distilled warmer is the same. Wah wah. As much as I love this stuff, I've played around with it to know that it's just a tool, not better, not worse, but can certainly yield a product better, or worse, depending on the situation. Can you rebuild a european motor using only SAE tools? Maybe, but it's going to suck.
  22. 0 points
    Hello folks, Check out the link below to see one of our continuous systems in action at @Stumpy's place!!
  23. 0 points
    Georgeous, You could distill lavender oil for them in your still by placing the plant material in your pot along with water then heat up to 212F and distill off the hydrosol. It would be best if you put the plant material in stainless bags and better if you had a false bottom You will need to clean thoroughly afterword to get the lavender flavors out of your still. You will need to remove your parrot and put an oil water separator at the output of your still. This is one way but not the best. We build special steam stills for essential oils that have false bottoms that separate the plant material from the water. The water is below the false bottom and the heat source to boil the water is electric or gas. The stills are large straight sided vessel and the whole top is removable so that they can be loaded easily. Ours tilt like cement mixers so that they can be easily dumped. The best way in my opinion is to use our vacuum stills with a solvent like ethanol. First you do an extraction in a wash vessel and then the oil laden ethanol from that extraction is pumped into the reclamation vacuum still. You pull -29.5 inHg and distill at around 80F. The ethanol is reclaimed for future use and the oil is left in the still pot and drained. This makes the very best oil. It is cleaner and a much lighter color because it was distilled at lower temps. We primarily sell these systems to hemp to CBD processors. For Hemp to CBD processing we include equipment to winterize and remove lipids, waxes, chlorophyll and THC. Our CBD oil is very high quality and only contains CBD, CBG, CBN and terpenes. These are all cannibanoids. We also have lab equipment to create CBD isolate. Winterizing and removal of waxes lipids and chlorophyll is normally done at the point of extraction but our equipment does it post extraction so our process costs a great deal less than the processes and equipment sold by our competitors. Our 8 gallon system will process 40 lbs of hemp into 4 to 6 lbs of high grade CBD oil per day. The still is capable of doing a run in 65 minutes. The complete set of 8 gallon equipment including the chiller wash vessel, winterizing vessels and everything costs less than $20,000.00 Hi quality bulk CBD oil brings $10.00 per gram. You can do the math. The equipment pays for itself the first day. I don't know of anything more profitable than processing CBD to hemp. The 8 gallon system is the smallest we have. We have sold hemp to CBD processing systems that will do 5,000 lbs of hemp per day.
  24. 0 points
    J Norris and others have it right. The direct statement of the prohibition is Sec. 19.351(c), which is headed removals from processing. It states, "Except as provided in paragraph (b)(2) and (3) of this section, spirits may not be transferred from the processing account to the storage account." Why they bury such a basic tenant so deeply in the text is a mystery to me, but they do. The two exceptions mentioned relate to deposits into the production account, not the storage account, but I'd read (c) as saying you can pass them through the storage account on the way to production. I think someone must have had a need for that and petitioned for it. It otherwise makes no sense, but then I can't think of a rationale for the one way gate into processing rule either. The regulation sites nine sections of law on which it is based and none have a one way rule. The operations you may conduct in the storage account are limited. There are rules that allow filling packages, changing packages, mingling and blending, and adding oak chips to spirits and caramel to rum or brandy, all subject to restrictions, etc. That's it. Under §19.325 you can change packages and barrels are packages. However, and I can't find any direct provision affirming this, if the repackaging results in a change in the class and type, it must be done in the processing account. That suggests a detour into the way repackaging bourbon is different than repackaging rye, but I'll not go there now. I can't find any direct requirement that all operations that change class and type, must be done in processing, but there is an indirect path to that conclusion. The indirect is through the requirement you must designate spirits by kind when you put them into a package (barrel) and that you may not change the designation you have given them without the written permission of TTB (§§19.487(a) and (b) respectively]. An approved formula constitutes such written permission. Section §19.348, which is a processing account rule, requires that you must have an approved formula before you "Blend, mix, purify, refine, compound, or treat spirits in any manner which results in a change of character, composition, class, or type of the spirits, including redistillation as provided in Sec.19.314; or produce gin or vodka by other than original and continuous distillation. Section 19.343, which also a processing account rule, provides that you must make a dump record when you dump spirits for use in the manufacturing of a distilled spirits product and when when spirits are dumped for redistillation in the processing account. It also provides that you must prepare a batch record to record the dumping of spirits that are to be used in their entirety in preparing a batch of product manufactured under an approved formula and the use of such spirits in preparing a batch of product manufactured under an approved formula. The dump/batch record is a processing account record (§19.598). Finally, all "manufacturing," which is a term defined only by the context in which it occurs, occurs in the processing account. But its meaning, as TTB uses it, is clear from the definition of processor. A processor is "any person qualified under this part who manufactures, mixes, bottles, or otherwise processes distilled spirits (§19.1)." Further 19.591, which is in the subpart that addresses processing operations discusses manufacturing records. Thus, one an, be a string of syllogistic logic, deduce that specialty items, which are formula products, are all manufactured in the processing account, and so may not be transferred to the storage account after they are manufactured, unless you want to redistill them to neutral spirits.,any It's all a tangle of rules that someone, not me, should set out by type of spirit. A "for bourbon you may," "for American type whiskey other than bourbon you may not," "for whiskey designated as distilled from malt mash you may, but need not," set of rules, saying what you must, must not, and may do with that type of spirit; the criteria and rules for doing anything that you must or may do; the account in which you do it; what records you must keep of the operations and transactions; and what those records must show.
  25. 0 points
    Look up a 1000-2000 sqft warehouse space near you. That's what it might cost. But how much it costs depends all the factors that Hedgebird supplied. He nor anyone else can give you even ballpark figures because it is all based on local factors. What is costs will vary wildly - urban, suburban, rural. Local government, fire inspectors etc can change that. There's very few easy questions when it comes to distilling and what you are asking isn't one of them.
  26. 0 points
    SF Herb. My neighbor and landlord. Great products and great service.
  27. 0 points
    Being able to adjust your reflux condenser temps on the fly makes exploring whiskey heads technique fairly interesting, especially if you have a few plates to play with. For example, running high reflux to stack heads, slow take off >190pf, then flipping off the reflux condenser entirely and shifting to quasi-pot mode. You can get the product yield efficiency of a column, and the flavor profile of a pot.
  28. 0 points
    The key is the word "produced" in the definition. TTB defines it to mean: " Produced at. As used in 5.22 and 5.52 in conjunction with specific degrees of proof to describe the standards of identity, means the composite proof of the spirits after completion of distillation and before reduction in proof. " So you could start collecting as high as you want as long as the total distillate is no more than 160.
  29. 0 points
    Brewcraft USA is where I get mine from. https://shop.brewcraftusa.com/
  30. 0 points
    Yeah, moving to roof-mounted dry coolers is going to be a big shift for us. We would need to do closed-loop glycol and HX to the existing water system, or bite the bullet and shift. Our chillers are inside - great during the winter. Awful during the summer, especially with 100f degrees expected this weekend. Don't mind me, I like to argue.
  31. 0 points
  32. 0 points
    All equipment purchased new in 2016 for a distillery in Tennessee. Very lightly used. 250 gallon Steam Still. Copper with 5 plate reflux column Stainless steel spirit safe Allied 15/30 - 30hp Boiler and associated Equipment (see pics) $60,000 Story is I had to buy it all from a bank and do not need these items. Plan to keep the rest.
  33. 0 points
    I find the best fruit based spirits come from pot still as they allow more of the flavor of the fruit to carry over to the spirit. We do an apple brandy at my distillery on our pot still and it amazing with notes of fresh crisp apples.
  34. 0 points
    True, it is legal under state law in MO, but the federal law supersedes it. So, it is still illegal. And it is very unlikely that what happened for beer and wine will ever happen for spirits. Part of that is historical, it was legal to home brew, but always illegal to make spirit with license and taxation for most of our country's history (c.f. the whiskey rebellion). And, you pretty much can't enforce "no fermentation" since things will spontaneously ferment. But distillation generally requires an intentional manufacturing process.
  35. 0 points
    It is amazing how simple adjustments can salvage an otherwise failed solution. Just slowing down the pump and spreading out the discharge over a wider area and we are dewatering without much trouble. https://youtu.be/Ap969PXSqfc
  36. 0 points
    I do my cuts by nose and taste only, with a little guidance from volume to know when to start nosing. I don't allow hydrometers to be used to tell us what a spirit will taste like, those things don't have taste buds. I am trying to make products that taste and smell good, hydrometers measure ethanol which I consider a tasteless by-product. I occasionally measure the cut point from heart to feints for interest and it is occasionally low as 90 proof. Great rye flavours come towards the end. I am running a simple alembic pot still, no plates.
  37. 0 points
    I assume you mean hearts and not heads. My wash is about 8% ABV and I collect hearts starting around 160-170 proof and stop around 100 proof. Hearts to tails cut, I think, is much more subjective than heads to hearts cut. So go with what you think seems right...or ideally try both and see what works out best.
  38. 0 points
    The answer to this question is likely heavily dependant on the type of still you are running, and therefore very subjective. (perhaps adding pictures of yours, or listing the make/manufacturer might help?) We dont run anything lower than 130 proof on our still, which is when fatty acids (turquoise floaties) start to appear (obviously depending on type of base material we're distilling) However, we have the only still like ours in the US, so i doubt anyone uses the same settings we do.
  39. 0 points
    Keep in mind that you can really only use a refractometer for your starting gravity, and ideally you would have calibrated it against a known hydrometer for your type of wash (grain, fruit, sugar, etc).
  40. 0 points
    Grain in we use refractometer , tried hydrometer on strained wort wasn't happy with it . We do test strained samples during fermentation but I don't put alot of weight in the results.
  41. 0 points
    Bought two conical tanks and attachments from this company. I had a ball valve start dripping after 5 uses. It is the 12th day since telling them warranty or not please send one. I have called and emailed til I'm done. Just lost all my future business over a ball valve. Got the replacement in today from another company. At glance looks to be made better. Live and learn. Just know that if you use this company they will not stand behind their product and will not even return a call or email. Zero customer service.
  42. 0 points
    Yessir, the still is pulling more "heads" than required and we are actually recycling that product back to the beer well at the moment. At the end of the run, the user can concentrate those heads if desired and remove or simply continue recycling. Honestly, we've found that we like the distillate better when we recycle that stream for extended periods of time. Ya...don't get me started on Corson unless we can sit down in front of a bottle of bourbon and trade war stories over drinks! StillDragon is the POLAR OPPOSITE of Corson. Quality equipment and amazing service.
  43. 0 points
    https://www.wlky.com/amp/article/scam-alert-fake-bourbon-barrel-company-deceives-customers/25657218 These fuckers!!!
  44. 0 points
    That is really hot for malt addition. You don't really need to boil corn or wheat either. I bring corn up to 190 for 90 min, drop to 160 and add rye/wheat or both, rest 40 min, drop to 147 and add malt. The rye step is around 154 (start milling in at 160 but temp drop with grain add, same with malt).
  45. 0 points
    You aren't missing anything, with unmalted primary grains, even a very high 250 DP distillers malt is going to be low at 5%. Mashing that low will lead to very low conversion and low yield, and exogenous enzyme would likely be required for full conversion. You can mix both techniques, there are other reasons for adjunct malt beside enzyme contribution (flavor, nutrition, etc).
  46. -1 points
    too complex for me i was more curious if anyone else was doing this
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