Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/13/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
  2. 1 point
    For planning I would use a 10:1 reduction. So if you start with 100 gallons in a fermenter, you will have about 10 gallons or 50 bottles finished product for whites/vodka. Barrel aged whiskey will be less, maybe 15:1. Pretty easy to work your way back from there. Just take your bottles per week, divide by 5 for gallons, then decide how many still runs you want to do. Divide your gallons by still runs, then multiply by 10 or 15 to get your still size. Figure 2 week turn on a fermenter. So take still runs per week X still size X 2 and that gives you the fermenter capacity needed. Then match the mash tun to the fermenter size. Might not be perfect, but it will get you close. The hard part is getting sales volume. Equipment is all about capital expenditure and easy to calculate.
  3. 0 points
    We make 100% rye whiskey from rye flour, and I think your cook needs to go up to a higher temp, and add then bglucanase on the way down after the starch has been hydrolyzed.
  4. 0 points
    Yep, they're $5.50. Are you sure you want 1/2" barb? You mentioned threaded in your original post, so that'd be the 1/2" NPT adapters rather than 1/2" barb. These are not yet on our website, but you can give us a call at 707-963-9681 to order.
  5. 0 points
    The OP says that he's not going to distill this, just brewing it to drink. I've never had a pure sugar fermentation that I really wanted to drink. If it ferments out dry it is unpleasant and acidic, even with carbonate additions to keep the pH from crashing so low that the yeast stop working. It also often has a lot of apple character which the OP says is acetaldehyde. Probably correctly. I'm not sure that any amount of DAP or Fermaid or yeast strain or crushed B vitamin or calcium carbonate or oyster shells or whatever will make a pure sugar wash pleasant to drink out of the fermenter. Just my 2c.
  6. 0 points
    I forgot about that - I'll look it up. Thanks! I want to build a small version first to figure out how to make it better. I'll hit you up for the full scale version and how to automate it a bit. Like you said it's an old design. I'm reading all the stuff @bostonapothecary is writing about beta-Damascenone, esters and other aromatic compounds. I want to figure out how to max out the yield of those.
  7. 0 points
    Yes, I love to mixed ferment. Generally though, I'm doing it because I'm pitching an esoteric slow fermenting yeast first - Torulaspora, Metschnikowia, - or bacteria, etc. And giving it a solid 24-36 hours to build character before pitching the heavy hitter. Why the desire to co-pitch? Are you assuming attenuation is going to be a problem? At reasonable starting gravities, it's not problematic. I use a number of ale yeasts, none of which have had any issues fermenting down to 1.000sg. S-04, US-05, Nottingham, ECY10, etc. Chalk it up to slightly warmer fermentation temperatures (high 70s), high nutrient (backset), agitation in fermenters to reduce early floc., and mashing with little to no residual dextrins/unfermentables (glucoamylase). Nottingham is hands down, one of my favorite whiskey yeasts. Couple things to keep in mind. In my experience, high starting gravities are going to make this more challenging, not less, especially if your first pitch yeast is a fast fermenter. By the 24-36h mark, you've already created enough alcohol to create a stressful environment for the new pitch, at that point there may be enough of the Yeast 1 biomass to outcompete Yeast 2. Reduce the timeframe, and you don't yield nearly the same character from Yeast 1. To emphasize character of Yeast 1 - consider underpitching at 1/2 typical cell counts - this is to emphasize Yeast 1 character and to slow down Yeast 1 somewhat (yes, it's somewhat counterintuitive). Underpitching ale yeasts and fermenting them warmer than recommended temperature is a great way to emphasize ale yeast ester contribution. Killer Factor Positive and Killer Factor Sensitive yeasts. If Yeast 1 is sensitive, and Yeast 2 produces killer factor - this may be counterproductive. Pitching a sensitive ale yeast, and then a fast fermenting KF+ yeast a few hours later - you might be wasting money. Careful with the high-phenolic POF+ yeasts - those phenols come through loud and clear, screaming all the way through hearts. Might be your thing if you like a "peaty" phenol character. Really fast ferments (4 days) is not going to yield tremendous yeast flavor contribution, so it may be moot. Fast ferments are ideal if the end goal is a cleaner spirit with higher yields, but longer ferments really begin to emphasize character - I think this is especially so with the ale yeasts. Let 'er riiiide. Maturation duration is a killer of unique yeast flavor contribution. The beautiful fruit and florals of ale yeasts do not stand the test of time. You can have an amazing new make, by the 1 year mark it's already lost considerable character, by the 2 year mark, it's almost gone. It becomes a very, very subtle difference. I always wondered why the big distillers said that yeast didn't make a difference. It's not that, it does make a huge difference in new make ... but at 4 years? 8 years? 12 years? Concur with @adamOVD on the Champagne as Yeast 2 - EC1118 is very commonly used to rescue stuck fermentations, as it can withstand the stress of being pitched into a higher alcohol fermentation. FYI - It's killer factor positive.
  8. 0 points
    The cararye is malted to have sugar that is non-fermentable, so your fermentation is probably complete. Most beers with caramel malts finish higher than 1.007. If this is about making alcohol and increasing yield, swap the cararye for something cheaper that converts. If you are happy with the flavor you are getting, note that it probably will have an impact on that.
  • Create New...