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SpiritedConsultant last won the day on May 4 2016

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About SpiritedConsultant

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  1. I am also surprised that all of your changes have not fixed the problem. Could be that your yeast is simply very stressed. This could be due to low viability at pitching, under-pitching and/or insufficient oxygen at the start of fermentation (yeast need oxygen to produce some essential sterols and to multiply, so DO at the start of fermentation is beneficial). It is also possible that the problem could originate with your grain. Have you tried doing any batches with grain from a different source? Grain might not be rotten, but could still have residue or contaminants that cause off flavors.
  2. Bit late, but I'll throw in my 2 cents (disclaimer, I have not read every post on this thread, so apologies if I am repeating others). As Silk City pointed out, your water and mashing protocol are likely both causing problems, which are having a knock-on effect on your fermentations. - You should definitely be remineralizing water. - You need to completely revamp your mashing protocol. Not sure what enzymes you are using, but they are not working because you need to gelatinize your starch (corn has a high gelatinization temp) before they can do their job. If you have a bit of good malt and a good protocol, you shouldn't need any exogenous enzymes or nutrients at all. I would expect your current mash to have very poor conversion. You can confirm this with a simple iodine starch test (should also be evident by just tasting it). Your mash pH is on the high side, but not necessarily problematic on its own. - There is likely lactic acid bacteria in your ferments, but that is not usually a bad thing, and it's not what's causing that pellicle. Your ferments are a very inhospitable environment for most bad bacteria due to the acidity, alcohol and minimal O2. Microbial problems are more likely fungal, not bacterial. That pellicle also does not look bacterial or like kahm yeast. It looks like textbook Brettanomyces, which is a different genus of yeast (standard distillers, brewers and bakers yeast is Saccharomyces cerevisiae, including Red Star DADY). This would be consistent with your mashing problems, as many strains of Brett are capable of producing amylase enzymes, allowing them to use some of the longer chain saccharides left from the poor mash that S cerevisiae cannot use. Depending on the strain(s) and conditions, Brett is capable of producing some lovely flavors, but also some terrible ones. I would also recommend lowering your starting fermentation temp, not letting it get up to 90F, and possibly aerating it a bit, but more data on it would be useful. If you are still having issues after correcting your water and mash problems and really want to dial in on the faults, I would take gravity, pH and temperature readings every 8 hours, also noting the aroma, flavor, appearance and vigor of the fermentation each time.
  3. I usually do my best to get a spec from the supplier. If I can't, I usually just estimate based on typical values for that substrate and an inspection of the grain. If you really want to test it, look up the ASBC's or EBC's Methods of Analysis. High moisture and protein are not desirable because they are inversely correlated with yield and don't really add anything beneficial (high FAN has been associated with greater fusel oil production during fermentation, for better or worse). Looks good to me (I think Sebamyl GL is good at 160, but would need to check spec sheet). That is the liquor to grist ratio I would use. The only thing is I doubt you will be able to lauter that without adding something for a filter bed, but I've never actually tried. Why do you want to lauter?
  4. Yeah. Checked my spreadsheet for the last one I did and I used 75%, so 34.5 points. As you said, it varies.
  5. Yes, with a very generous amount of rice hulls (don't remember the % I used). It's much easier if you have a separate lauter tun. I had best results when mixing in half the hulls with grain and laying the other half down as a filterbed over the false bottom of the lauter tun before filling from the mash tun. Produced a nice whisky on a direct fired alembic.
  6. First thing to consider when looking at lower than expected yields is the moisture and protein content of your substrate. Unless your moisture content is very high, 20lbs is a lot for 7G. I agree with the other posters that alpha alone is not sufficient. Alpha is a endoamylase. You also need an exoamylase like beta-amylase. For a rough guide to adding enzymes, I would use something like the below: Enzymes: Amount per lb (ml) When? SEBstar HTL 0.45 At mash in SEBAmyl GL 0.41 Once temp is at or below 140 F
  7. My reply is a bit late, but yes, it is possible as long as you do not intend to lauter. The 25% malted rye should have sufficient DP and I have seen recipes use less. The main trouble makers in a rye mash are the beta-glucans, but xylans can also cause some problems. Malt xylanase and beta-glucanase have optimal temps of around 38 C (100 F) and 45 C (113 F) respectively, and rye is around the same, so a your rest would help somewhat with the viscosity but don't expect too much. Depending on your equipment, it might also be hard to get up to mash temp with even heating. I have done several tests using both SEBFlo-TL and ViscoSEB (which contains xylanase in addition to other enzymes) individually and in combination, mostly on 100% malted rye mashes for fermentation and distillation off the grain in a traditional pot still. If you need to further reduce viscosity, I would recommend using these together. The supplier (Specialty) will give you samples.
  8. Looking to buy hot and cold liquor tanks for a distillery on Long Island, NY. Both must be well insulated. HLT will run on 250F steam, CLT will run on glycol. Desired size range is 1000-1500 gallons. Willing to consider converting mashtuns (HLT) and fermenters (CLT) if the specs are suitable. Please email matt@matchbookdistillingco.com Thanks, Matt
  9. Just do a google image search for amylose and amylopectin. https://www.google.com/search?q=amylose+and+amylopectin&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=667&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj56u3t9sDMAhWG6iYKHZkqDtAQsAQIGw
  10. It's probably long chain esters that are causing the haze, but it's just a cosmetic issue. I agree with PeteB about the note: Chill filtering would very likely fix the haze problem, but you might lose a bit of flavor and body, particularly at the back. Not really worth it in my opinion. These compounds are more soluble in EtOH than H2O, so you bottling at a higher abv would also mitigate the haze.
  11. To echo Bluestar, there are a lot of variables, but the general range is 2-5 days. For example, higher temp will generally result in faster fermentation, but also more congeners, such as esters and higher alcohols. Another thing to consider is microbes other than your distiller's yeast. Lactobacillus, for example, takes longer than distiller's yeast to hit its stride, so tends to have a more impact in longer fermentations. Get a bench scale kit and do some test batches as part of your recipe development.
  12. The most likely bacteria is lactobacillus, but your low wines should still be clear, not yellow. Did your still puke?
  13. Strange. I don't have a problem getting a hold of them and Tory has been very helpful.
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