Jump to content
ADI Forums

Minnetonka Dan

Members
  • Content count

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Minnetonka Dan last won the day on June 29

Minnetonka Dan had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Minnetonka Dan

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nevada

Recent Profile Visitors

167 profile views
  1. Distilling on the Grain

    Ok, thanks for clarifying, I appreciate that.
  2. Distilling on the Grain

    I don't know, I'm trying to find what exactly your beef might be. I do claim that with yeast present in the pot, copper is a good idea. That is literally the only recommendation I made here, but you seem to take issue with my comment. You tell me what's up.
  3. Distilling on the Grain

    Um ... I didn't say anything about distilling on the grain being "wrong", I'm not sure how either of you read that. I am fully aware that corn mashes require distilling on the grain, I'm not sure how you leapt to lautering corn mashes from what I said. Yeast will be fully entrained throughout a mash slurry, you aren't going to separate yeast out from a corn mash. It will be part of what is in the pot. That is my point. Off flavors being in the cuts is not the same as all flavors; the grain and yeast boiling in the pot of a bourbon distillation is part of what separates bourbon character from all malt scotch character. Are you really claiming some copper is a worthless feature for a bourbon still? Your reactions are puzzling, I have to admit.
  4. Distilling on the Grain

    If you distill on the grain, there really is no way to separate the yeast by itself. The additional compounds that do come out contribute to the complexity of the grain. You do want to be sure you have sufficient copper contact in the system, though, dead yeast cells will release some sulfur compounds.
  5. Mash tun/Boil Kettle Design

    If you are willing to lauter all of your washes, you have to use predominantly malted barley in every mash, which drives your material cost up somewhat, but simplifies a lot of the other steps quite a bit. If mash in with water that is hot enough, you wouldn't have to raise the temperature at all, or just enough to make the lautering flow easier, can use a plate and frame heat exchanger to quickly cool the wort down while transferring to the fermenter, and not have to deal with thick grain slurries in all your downstream processes. And the mash tun is then much closer to what your manufacturer is used to making for brewery use. Also, if you are mashing or distilling almost every day, you can refill the hot water tank with the heat exchanger and condenser cooling water, so you are constantly topping it up with hot water for mashing and cleaning. What batch sizes are you looking for?
  6. Combination mash tun and stripping still

    Hi Lorenzo, There really is no performance issue with using a still pot as a mash cooker. The possible issue is more about production and scheduling, and whether or not you need to mash and distill in the same day. If that won't be a problem in your first couple of years of operation, you can absolutely start out using the still pot to cook the mash, and add a dedicated mash cooker when the production schedule justifies it.
  7. passivating stainless

    There is a company called Stellar solutions that makes a citric acid gel specifically for stainless passivation. Citric is a lot safer to work with than nitric, and the gel is great for spot treatments because it stays put for a long time.
  8. Agitation during fermentation

    If you are using closed and cooling jacketed fermenters, it may be worthwhile agitating a fermentation with lots of solids to keep the temperature more even throughout the fermenter, and speed the yeast activity.
×