DistillaMI

Thanks for all the input. Yes it is definitely solder, we are switching to citric only for acid wash, staying with the brewery wash for cleaning, and. We will probably not get into removing solder to tig weld the still, but will keep an eye on this moving forward to gauge the need of major overhauls. Must say, very disappointed that a reputable company like this is still soldering parts of their stills. But live and learn I suppose. Sounds like plain old citric acid is the ticket to stop the breakdown of the existing solder, and that is fine by me. IN the mean time we are waiting further information from Holstein. Thanks for all of the help!

So general consensus is that copper TIG welding is the preferred method but not without removing the existing solder. Thanks for the contact Jonathan, I will take you up on that. Gonna get some flack here, but I did use JB Weld Tank Weld. While I work out a more permanent repair, the company owner told me to get it patched and running asap. I called JB Weld to verify, was told its drinking water safe, resistant to ethanol, chemicals, safe to 300 F, and will turn to ash if it gets too hot (no combustion issues). What issues can I expect with the JB Weld? Is it a safety concern? The JB Weld is not in the vapor path, its on the bottom side of the bottom plate. I was surprised as well to learn this was all solder. I know what that still costs, I would assume it would be welding at all points. I'll attach a pic of the JB Weld in place. Additionally, I'll attach another pic. New still from Holstein made in 2018, still haven't gotten it up and running yet, but it too appears to be soldered.

Good afternoon, seeking advice on some maintenance issues that came up. Taking apart our still this week, new compression gaskets, seals, etc followed by detailed inspection. Found a few things that worry me. Solder breaking down? Also, found a very small leak at the base of my 4 plate column (the leak looks to be on the bottom side of the pan and very slow), see pics for clarification. This is an Arnold Holstein still, about 13 years old. They recommended Sodium Hydroxide and Citric Acid for regular cleaning. About 4 years ago I switched to a buffered alkaline detergent (PBW) and then follow it up with a Citric Nitric, RO rise in between. Hoping my chemical choice hasn't helped in the solder degradation. It is difficult to get a response from the manufacturer, and its never timely. The boss wants the still put back together asap, so I most likely will not be able to wait for Holstein's response. I'm wondering why this is happening, what steps I can take to repair the solder and prevent it from happening again. Additionally, my local welder and plumber don't want to mess with trying to fix the solder without knowing what it is (neither of them have experience with stills) and I'm getting pressure to use JD Weld and just get it back up and running. Any advise?

Solid advice guys, thanks.Ran the water test, worked like a charm!

I've seen this mentioned a few times in threads, but how would I go about preforming this test? Thanks! Holstein still, 1200 liter, 16 plates, with dephlegmator.

Initial stripping run pulls about 155-160 proof in the hearts using 4 plates a mild reflux, second run hits 186 or so using 15 plates, 3rd round hits 15 plates coming around 188 or so. Been loading the still around 135-140 proof. Will try 90-100 proof next time. I've tried a fast stripping run with no plates, but it's so much cleaner using the plates that first round, and It doesn't take much more time to run it that way, plus I get a great heads cut on that first pass taking my time during heat up. Is time the primary concern with using plates on the first run, or is there another reason?

Brian, thanks for the links! Some of it went over my head, but a lot of great info there and definitely will help me in the future!

Thanks for the quick responses everyone. Adding plates is not an option at this time; although I do only have 15 plates I'm using multiple passes. I strip with 4 plates, hit a second round through the still with all 15, then hit a final round with another 15 plates. I do have removable windows, I will try packing the top few plates, with SS scouring pads, see if that helps. As for finished product off the still, I'm using a portable density meter, the DMA 35, which is a very accurate unit that auto corrects for temps, to proof the finished spirit, so I don't think that is the issue. Brian, what do you mean by a cleaner binary break? I will run the proof lower next time, but (pardon my lack of knowledge) why would that help?

Hey guys, Any advice on getting < 190 on a 15 plate reflux still? It's been such a pain for me, but I would like any tips on making it a bit easier to achieve. I normally add about 315-330 gallons at around 125-135 proof, heat ups are about 2.5-3 hours, all plates active and bubbling, easy to pull 188, that last few points though are a pain, any advice?