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Still_Holler

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About Still_Holler

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    Contributor

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  • Location
    WV
  • Interests
    Farming, Distilling, Skiing

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137 profile views
  1. Direct Fire Heat Up Problem

    Thanks for the feedback, you guys may have saved me a lot of trouble. I have the "aluminum" bubble insulation as well, PeteB how many years did yours last for? I just asked the still manufacturer for the insulation type, which is Reflectix. I looked it up, It is rated for +180F. I called the insulation company and the engineer said there is very little flexibility in the heat rating and that it will melt if I bring the pot to boiling and I should remove it immediately.
  2. Direct Fire Heat Up Problem

    Hi Ned, It is single wall copper surrounded by insulated mat and wrapped in wood overtop of the insulation.
  3. Direct Fire Heat Up Problem

    we have the propane tips, it just not getting a proper draft through the vent pipe
  4. Direct Fire Heat Up Problem

    Hi, hopefully not derailing the thread here, but I am also dealing with direct fire propane burner issues. We have our still and mash tun installed inside our building so the vent pipe is crucial for safety and code reasons. There is a 440,000 btu burner inside a metal fire box under the still, we built fire brick around the inside of the firebox for further insulation. There are gaps around the bottom to let combustion air in. The sides of the still are insulated and it has an agitator. A 6" vent comes out of the back of the firebox and goes up 14' with type B vent pipe then 90s and out the wall. I installed according to still manufacturers recommendations but we had a problem with not enough draft on a calm day and the propane was not getting good combustion due to lack of oxygen. It set of co2 alarms and caused us to have to abandon the run. Because of this I did more research on the burner which the still manufacturer supplied with the still, which is from the Glacier Tanks website. According to the website "Cast iron jet burners, fueled by either propane or natural gas, are similar to turkey kettle burners and are typically only used in outdoor brewing as per most municipal codes. Jet burners can not be used in closed firebox and require substantial air intake to function properly. If allowed to be used indoors, a vent hood is usually required." This leads me think I need a draft inducer or power venter to comply with the burner manufacturers installation instructions. (draft hood implies fan assisted venting) The still manufacture says it is fine without any power venting and I need to eliminate the 24" of horizontal run in my vent pipe to get a better draft. I want to ensure safety and eliminate liability so am thinking of putting a power venter with speed control at the vent outlet. Will I just be venting my heat away? Does anyone have experience venting direct fire stills indoors? Thanks.
  5. Anti-Foam Alternatives

    I recently inquired with Hydrite about organic de-foamers. Below info is from email I recieved. Here are the specs for the 2 organic defoamers. They both are 100% active – no silicone. ORG 20 - designed for the organic food processing market. This product is made to the highest standards and is fortified with an organic wax that affords better performance at higher temperatures (>160oF). ORG 40 - is also an Organic Certified foam control agent designed for the organic food processing market. This product is made to the highest standards and is fortified with an organic wax that affords efficient foam control across broad operational parameters. The product exemplifies itself in high starch systems versus the competitive products on the market. Suppressor ORG 40 is limited by the FDA to a 500 ppm on the final food product. Karleen Rivenburgh | Account Sales Representative 2545 Bond St. University Park IL 60484 C: 815-540-1617 Karleen.Rivenburgh@Hydrite.com
  6. Boiling point adjusted for elevation

    https://secure.brewhaus.ca/docs/EffectofElevationonBoilingPoint.pdf This seems to have the info. Ethanol boils 3 degree lower at 2500 so I could adjust the cuts by 3 degree f
  7. Boiling point adjusted for elevation

    So I am at 2600' elevation. The boiling point of water decreases 0.5 degree C for every 500' elevation, so my water boils around 97.5 degree celcius or 207.5 F. -4.5 degree from normal boiling point. If I want to make my theoretical head cut at 160 F and tails cut at 180 F, should I subtract 4.5 from each of these values to account for elevation. i.e. does the boiling point of alcohol react to elevation in a linear manner to h2o? I'm going to do some research and report back, thought i would see if anyone out there has useful info? Thanks!
  8. Grain Mill For sale with blower

    howdy, do you still have this?
  9. Grain Mill for sale

    Hi, Does it produce a lot of dust running indoors?
  10. Cleaning Bubble Plates - no CIP

    Thanks all for the advice. It does have tri clamp where I can flush in reverse. After the final rinse, I'm left with clean water in the bottom of the plates. I will be running the still 2 days, then 4 days off, then run two days. I'm thinking if I flush with clean water every other day during the down days it should prevent any problems?
  11. Read this if you are new to commercial distilling

    I was trying to set up a distillery in the garage, which is 24' from the house. I sent a diagram to my contact with TTB to check it was OK before progressing any further. He sent it on the the National Revenue Center and I got back a response saying the distillery must be at least 50' from a residence. I'm not sure what CFR this falls under or how the NRC fits into the regulatory scheme, but we put up a new building 120' from the house. The house is on the same property parcel, no problem there. The only headache was seperating with the insurance policies what is covered under the farm/home owner policy and what is covered under the distillery policy.
  12. Cleaning Bubble Plates - no CIP

    Thanks for the input. Do you know where to buy Patcote? I can only find 2 oz bottles on the net.
  13. Cleaning Bubble Plates - no CIP

    Any advice on cleaning bubble plates without CIP? I just got a new 4 bubble plate column and am wondering best way to clean it between runs? I will be running the same product (whiskey off grain) almost daily so not worried about taste of the product coming through in the next batch. Do I need to take the plates off to remove the liquid in the bottom and clean each time? I talked to some folks who said they dismantle and run theirs in a dishwasher. Would running water with cleaner (caustic or acid) through the column following the run and then running clean water through the column to rinse it suffice? If so, how do I ensure no residual cleaning solution from the pot ends up in the plates? Thanks!
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