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SilverSwede

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    silverbeardistillery.com

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    Dalton Massachusetts

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  1. Have anyone modified "hot rodded' their hybrid type still with existing column(s) so it can be used as a continuous stripping still.
  2. Thank you Slick floss. I found the other thread and it is very helpful. It doesn't however talk about the change in distillation speed depending on temperature. Do you have any opinion or experience with that?
  3. I went overseas and visitied a distillery. I really liked their gin. When looking at their equipment I saw that they had a small simple still over to the side. When talking to the distiller he explained that they used it to make "gin concentrate" He wasnt really the talking type and I totally respect peoples right to their recepies, procedures and other secrets. From what i gathered the method they used was something like.. 1. They added some botanicals and 95% GNS to the still pot 2. 12 hrs later they proofed still pot down to 40% and added the other botanicals 3. After another 12 hrs they started the distillation 4. They changed the "distillation speed" (must be the energy input like steam valve opening or kW) to the still depending on temperature. I assume liquid temp because i didnt see any thermometer in the vapor pass. 5. After distillation they proofed down to bottling strength 40% and mixed it with their 40% vodka. The ratio was done to taste but approximately 1/3 to 1/4 gin concentrte and 2/3 to 3/4 vodka. Supposedly someone with experience from a large scale gin distillery had helped hem with recepie and procedure. Does anyone make gin like this? Please comment on the methods. I have heard normally 30g botanicals per liter of 80proof charge. If making gin concentrate wold that need to be trippled or even quadrupled I assume (under 1) the the initial botanical going into the high test GNS in Juniper? I am somewhat intrigued by the possibility of changing the flavorprofile by speding up or slowing down the distilliation at certain temperatures. Not sure how proctical or manageble it is to make a consistant products that way. Please comment opinions and experiences.
  4. looking for Vida 750 bottles. Would be interested in other sizes as well if anyone has any
  5. I have a local hard cider mill that reached out to me. They have about 700gal 7%ABV cider that they want us to distill so that they (or we depending on legalities) can turn it into Pommeau. He said that last fall some sulfites were added and the concentration was 50 ppm. I have two questions First and foremost Is 50 ppm of sulfites going to wreck my copper still? What ABV should we shoot for from the still and how would this traditionally be distilled? (my guess would be two pot still runs)
  6. Silk city. The issues with gelatinizing corn for me are. I have no cooling capabilities in my mash tun. I use a plate heat exchanger to cool my lautered wort on the way to the fermenter. It works great but probably not with grain. I have conical fermenters (probably not well suited for fermenting on the grain) I have a 2" hard piped drain line from my still that probably wouldn't drain still slops with grain in them. So against all common sense I want to try to make a bourbon mash (i totally get that many tried and most gave up) without fermenting or distilling on the grain. Here is what i am thinking. Mash bill 51% malted corn roller milled (like they do at Makers Mark) 15% malted wheat and 34% malted barly + rice hulls + enzymes. Mash at 148F. Lauter then ferment with Whiskey yeast . Soliciting opinions and helpful comments..
  7. Thank you for your reply. Excuse my ignorance but when you say corn does not malt very well i get that . I get that other malted grains and/or enzymes galore are needed. However more important to me would be to know if I can get the starch conversion to take place without gelatinizing (cooking) of the corn first. Can I mash malted barely with malted corn together at the same time (and at the same temp ) and get a decent bourbon mash.
  8. I have a a bunch of questions about malted corn. Has anyone worked with malted corn? At what temperature does the conversion take place? What is the diastatic power? Can it be roller milled and lautered in a grain bill with 49% barely and 51% malted corn? Any literature or article suggestions on the subject would be appreciated as well.
  9. Potential issue i was told about. Please correct me as necessary. If you inject seam from your normal boiler i don't think you can add any chemicals to your condensate system (at least not the boiler chemical that i use) That's why commercial kitchen boilers are all ss. If you have a conventional boiler you need to keep 100-200ppm of sulfites in the water to scavange oxygen from the condensate and you need to keep conductivity in the blowdown below 3500. Failure to adhere to this will eventually make your boiler fail (hopefully not with a big bang).
  10. I'm still waiting for a pretty basic FONL approval; any news on turn around times?
  11. Will the return under the level not contribute to slow cycling of the flow? How about having a smal (1/4") went line to the vapor zone. Wouldn't the flow be better (like having a vent line on a sink drain?). (Tip your head to the right)
  12. I posted this in the equipment forum and got no replies so i am trying again here. I have seen two designs on the return line from the column(s) (whisky column, vodka column or gin basket, or quite commonly these drain into a common return line) back to the pot. In one of the designs the return enters the pot above the liquid line in the vapor zone. I have heard by the people that promoted this design that it has to be that way or the still becomes vapor locked and floods if the return is under the liquid line and to never fill the still above the return line entrance point. On the other end I have heard that if the return line is above the liquid line vapor will enter the return line and "fight" the returning liquid. Interested in operating and engineering opinions, pros and cons with both designs.
  13. We are using an older Anton Paar DMA 5000 and would like to check it with known density standards on a regular basis. Like everything else Anton Paar sells, their set of standards has an eye popping price. What are others using? Where did you source them and what did they cost? Are you happy with them?
  14. Here are my two cents from experience with PID controlled electric heating processes. It is often easiest and cheapest to use on off control. You can still have a sophisticated controller that control your temperature very precisely by pulses. Your heating element will be on or off but your controller will modulate the length of the on/off times. Some of the simple controllers use a pulse of fixed time and they work well but you may experience unstable building voltage depending on your service (flickering lights) if you frequently turn 6kW on and off. The other option that i think would work very well is to split range the six heaters into 16.67% increments with a simple PLC and three relays. one for one one heater (16.67% one for two heaters 33.33% and one for three heaters 50%) A normal PID loop would then pull in the relays that were in demand depending on the controllers output. Also for safety put a second independent high temperature switch in the bath so if something fails and your oil or water gets over a predetermined temperature an alarm will sound and the system will require manual reset and restart.
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