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HedgeBird

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HedgeBird last won the day on May 8 2020

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  1. To say our setup is piecemeal is probably an understatement That said we are using a filler with a Co2 purge and have tried things in spec and out of spec of the manufactureres recomendations. The operating peramenters are pretty much limited to a recomended PSI to push the liquid to the filler. Adjusting the tank PSI seems to have minimal effect on the foaming. And to be blunt I have every intention and hope of running this litte machine at a higher PSI then recomended to speed things up. As mentioned in my other reply, issue seems to be with sugared products speficially, and my current working assumption is that co2 breakout is not the main issue we are experiencing, but it is possible I am wrong.. I have though about trying to carbonate a batch with beer-gas (60% co2 40% nitrogen) instead of straight Co2, as thats what many/most bars are using on beer tap system to help reduce foaming... Well thats hella awesome! I did most of the renovations/build-out/finishing/etc myself on the evenings and weekends back when I had my old day job before we got open so its nice to hear people like the space. We normally call it the grain shute, but grain hole works too! Somehow the built from scrath still is still kicking 10 years later but she is due for a kettle replacement/upgrade sooner than later.. Still stock those decanters!
  2. A bit of cap is fine, but we currently have too much on the sugar heavy products specifically. We are also using a filling machine with a CO2 purge cycle. Product does not seem over-carbed (we are under carbed if anything) and we are managing to get the liquid down to about 28f when it hits the can so I dont think its a CO2 foaming issue, but more a sugary product foaming issue. (could be wrong) My understanding is that most/all soda manufacturers use a silcone antifoam, specifically Dimethylpolysiloxane.
  3. Anyone have any suggestions or experience with Anti-foaming agents for canned cocktail production? Specifically looking to reduce foaming during can filling...
  4. What type of top/finish does it have? Screw top or cork?
  5. Im about a day away from pulling the trigger on some plastic bottles at this point. I have shaken every tree I know at this point, and there just are not any out there...
  6. You did not specify the condenser material used with each still... Does the copper still have a coper condenser and the stainless still have a stainless condenser? Are you doing any cleaning or flushing of the condenser between runs? The still I built originally had a copper condenser and changing this over to stainless is probably the best improvement I have made... Copper for the vapor column going up and stainless for the condenser for the vapor/distillate coming down..
  7. This basically has all the info one needs to get started: https://www.lcb.pa.gov/Wine-and-Spirits-Suppliers/Managing-Existing-Business/Documents/Policies_and_Procedures_for_Wine_and_Spirits_Vendors.pdf "The PLCB reviews listing proposals twice a year for regular stock items, which are products available for sale at all brick-and-mortar FWGS stores. Listing proposals are only accepted during the open listing periods. Listing periods are announced via email to all vendors on our distribution list. To request addition of an email address to the distribution list, please contact the Product Selection team. Each listing email announcement contains instructions, a New Item Submission Sheet and deadlines specific to each listing period."
  8. Anyone have any extra/excess Piramal 750ML Philly Flasks they want to unload? Probably a long-shot, but figured its worth asking.
  9. Any suggestions out there for suppliers on fairly generic 1 liter glass bottles? Ideally looking for ones with a 28-3500 top as that is what we are currently using, but having a hard time getting inventory from our current supplier. Thanks!
  10. http://www.kelleybarts.com/PhotoXfer/ReadMeFirst/UnderstandingPredictingPotstillRun.html The chart on this page is basically the same info as Meerkat's table but I think makes it easier to visualize. It also contains info on the alcohol concentration you get/produce at the various boiling points. If I was teaching a class on distillation it would probably start with this chart.
  11. Mostly for the sake of argument.... If like the original poster mentioned they are receiving requests, then there is no need for marketing. People call or email asking for alcohol for disinfecting; you reply that you have 140 proof beverage alcohol that you have an approved TTB beverage alcohol label and that you have paid the federal excise tax on. "Its 70% alcohol and 30% water; is that what you want to buy from me?" Its a product that we are legally allowed to sell (high strength beverage alcohol) that is materially the same as a product we are not allowed to sell (denatured disinfecting alcohol solution). So is it only illegal for someone selling 70% beverage alcohol to say it could be used as a surface disinfectant, or is it illegal for everyone to say that?
  12. Our protocol is actually similar to this. Malt goes in first, and we keep the temps low. (not having to heat to 180+ saves time and energy, not having to cool from 180+ saves time and energy.) Our efficiency is probably on the lower end, but we ferment out in three days and grain is not crazy expensive. Snagged us a best in category on our Bonded Rye this year
  13. Another option you might consider: Submit for a new TTB label with minimal info for 140 proof neutral spirits (labels are going very quick these days). Bottle the 140 proof and pay the excise tax (excise tax is cheap enough at the moment to be a minimal factor in pricing). Let people know its basically very strong, very bad vodka, but what they do with it is their decision. Point them to the following info from the CDC: The US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommends daily disinfection for frequently touched surfaces such as tables, doorknobs, light switches, countertops, handles, desks, phones, keyboards, toilets, faucets, and sinks. The CDC also recommends the use of detergent or soap and water on dirty surfaces prior to disinfection. Solutions of 70% alcohol should ideally be left on surfaces for 30 seconds. Containers of 70% alcohol should be sealed to prevent evaporation. But unlike bleach solutions, they will remain potent as long as they are sealed between uses. A 70% alcohol solution with water will be very harsh on your hands and should not be used as a substitute for handwashing and/or hand sanitizer.
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