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Skaalvenn

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Skaalvenn last won the day on December 11 2018

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About Skaalvenn

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  1. Hoover food grade stainless IBCs. You can purchase or lease them. Leasing is a very economical way to start.
  2. Some videos This first one doesn't denonstrate correct shaft placement. They simply put it off center yet still vertical and say "see". This second video actually shows the correct placement, and it's very easy to see that it works much better than the other placements.
  3. Because a mixer in a cylindrical vessel shouldn't be straight down and in the middle. It should be offset and angled with the mixing blades pushing the liquid down, not up. A vertical shaft in the middle of a cylinder will be prone to vortex, which can easily cause the shaft to wobble and potentially fail, and it will also not mix efficiently. Some manufacturers will put little blades on the sides of the tank to stop the vortex and to promote better mixing --but it's a solution to the problem of poor engineering. A vertical system will also want to spin the liquid, and once it's spinning with the shaft the mixing blades won't cause as much turbulence since their speed relative to the liquid has gone down dramatically. Mixing blades that are "pulling up" typically won't mix that well, and you'll probavly get a terrible amount of surface splashing (remember, there's a jet of fluid coming from the blades). The direction the shaft spins isn't important as long as the entire system is made to spin that direction. So, multiple reasons.
  4. I'd never feel comfortable re-purposing an item which previously held a toxic material, I also don't think it's legal to do. https://www.fda.gov/downloads/Food/GuidanceRegulation/RetailFoodProtection/FoodCode/UCM374510.pdf 7-203.11 Poisonous or Toxic Material Containers A container previously used to store POISONOUS OR TOXIC MATERIALS may not be used to store, transport or dispense FOOD.
  5. Duratherm. https://durathermfluids.com/ They have food safe high temperature transfer fluids as well (in case there's a leak).
  6. I couldn't imagine starting that small and making it. We started with a 150g electric, added a 60g electric finishing still, and are adding another 100g electric still as just a temporary patch for now until we do steam. The problems with electric are that it's hard to just buy a bigger still without buying all new electric components from the breakers all the way to the still, that is all expensive. Then there's the slow heat up times, I sometimes spend 6 hours of my longer days (3 runs) just waiting for the damn thing to heat up. Then there's the cost of electricity where $1000 electric bills for a small distillery are completely normal. Yes smaller electric stills got us started, yes it works, but it's a major hurdle to expand and buy ALL new equipment since we initially couldn't afford steam. And for the record, we're a small, bootstrapped distillery located in a suburb of Minneapolis where rent is cheap, overhead is low, and we have great distribution. I could not fathom trying to pay all the bills, let alone profit enough to grow, with a small still.
  7. We did this in the past on smaller runs, but we usually have about about 40-60gph of cool water circulating through the still so it would take 8 hours of running (not realistic) to fill a mash tun (and the water would cool substantially in that time). Also, if I can mash 8 hours quicker, I can distill it 8 hours quicker. Those hours add up over the months.
  8. Skaalvenn

    first time rum

    Bluefish is right. A pH meter is an essential tool if you want a distillery that makes money. It could also be done fermenting due to the unfermentable sugars in molasses. I have had molasses that wouldn't ferment below 1.035 from a 1.090 start. I thought it was stuck, added heat, added nutrients, added yeast and nothing happened. So as a final test I added raw sugar and it fired off again for an hour or two, so the answer was the molasses.
  9. Thanks! This is exactly what we are looking for as well. Is anyone here from the north where tap water is 45-50 degrees in winter? Wondering if one unit will be enough at decent flow rate, or if I'll have to run two in series.
  10. That's why I said the grain I was transferring. I am curious though, why would a centrifugal pump wear out with corn?
  11. We've been running 1.5" , centrifugal pumps, with grain in (wheat) for nearly 4 years without issue. We always agitate before pumping to make sure the hose doesn't clog with grain bed.
  12. Are the hoops not solid tight on the filled barrels? Were they not tight when fresh from the factory? That would be a major, major, problem.
  13. I don't understand why one would want or need a panel attached to, or immediately next to the still. I had mine mounted about 30' away and it's not a hassle to use.
  14. Thanks. I called and ordered up a couple bags ($30 each). Unfortunately, they just don't work for our process. We mill wheat to a very course flour with a lot of fines, and then ferment and distill on the grain. We found that the pores in the bag instantly clogged and after 24 hours only a few gallons of liquid was collected (we had it suspended over an IBC with the top removed) We tried poking holes in the bag and that helped, but the problem is that the grain clogs the holes very quickly. What ultimately worked the best was waiting for the grain to fully settle and then poking holes above the grain bed and decanting the liquid off. However, doing that means there's no point in using the filter bag at all. We tried holes ranging in size from about 1mm to about 5mm and if there's any grain, they clog. Back to the drawing board, at least for us...
  15. Skaalvenn

    Mash pH

    We use malic acid
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