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raywest

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About raywest

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    Brentwood, TN

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  1. Hi all, To date I have experimented with small batches but want to step up a notch and need recommendations on where to get grain and malt in the Nashville, TN area or as close as I can. Buying from craft beer stores has been fine up to now but far too expensive for large batches. Thanks in advance, Ray
  2. Thanks for the explanation James. Sorry for the delay. I didn't get an e-mail as I expected indicating that I got a reply to this post. This makes a lot of sense and is consistent with the process I have been running on my 6 plate column still. I start getting product as the pot gets to the 160 degree fahrenheight range and can adjust the flow I am getting out the parrot by varying the wattage on my electric element on thru 212 degrees pot temp. There is a direct relationship between cutting the wattage and the flow of product out the parrot. You might say 'duh' but please remember, I am still learning to control this process. Varying coolant to my dephleg unit also has an impact on flow. I am of the opinion at this point that I should heat the pot to the initial product flow temp and reflux for a short period with high coolant flow on the dephleg. I should then cut the dephleg coolant flow but leave the wattage to the wash alone and allow it to slowly climb as product runs down. Control the flow with the wattage to the wash, not the dephleg. This is how I was taught but wanted to get some more feedback on setting and controlling was pot temperature. Thanks again and anything you guys can add would be appreciated.
  3. I am fairly new to the distilling industry although I have been well versed in the consumption end for many years. I have been distilling for about a year and a half and one thing I have not seen much information on is pot temperature. I would like to get some views on how quickly you bring your wash up to temperature, what temperature, and what you hold it at or let it slowly increase as product plays out. I know the still has a lot to do with this and whether you are using a jacketed pot with steam or oil v/s electric or gas heat. I thought a thread on this would be useful to explore what people are doing. Thanks in advance for your insights.
  4. **SOLD** Thanks Everyone! I have a 6 plate 4" Hillbilly still with Dephlegmator, Gin Basket, Condenser, Column Temp Gage with Parrott all for sale. I will include all the gaskets, sight glass tool and tri-clamps. Below is the description from the Hillbilly website. Unit was purchased last year and I have ran it 4 times. Like new condition. You can e-mail me directly at iraywest@hotmail.com for more details. Only reason for sale is I am wanting to purchase a larger unit. Unit currently goes for $1,600 + 225 (for gin basket) = $1,825. I will sell for $1,600 even plus shipping from TN. No international shipping please. No wait time. From Hillbilly Website: Look no further!!! The Hillbilly Flute is handmade using the highest quality copper components on the market. This design has been around for many years on the commercial level, but was scaled down to a hobby sized still. Just like the commercial perforated plate distillation columns, the 4” Hillbilly Flute has an astounding take off rate while producing a high alcohol content, full flavored distillate. Peering through the site glasses, you can see the reflux in action! Like most large commercial stills the Hillbilly Flute is an easy still to run and maintain. It features a 4” copper column with 4 perforated plates, shotgun dephlegmator (“The Rain maker”), full irrigation plumbing to the dephlegmator, condensate condenser (13” shotgun condenser), and a in-built parrot's beak. This column if for use with any boiler, just specify what size connection you require at check out. This column has a 16 week build time. It is made by hand as they are ordered. Included: Tri- Clamp EDPM O Ring seal Instructional DVD sight glass tool The Hillbilly Flute is made from only the best high grade copper available and LEAD FREE Silver Solder.
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