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MichaelAtTCW

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MichaelAtTCW last won the day on June 23 2019

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About MichaelAtTCW

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  1. Fuck off with that flat-earther/sovereign citizen/crisis actor/faked moon landing bullshit. You believe you know better than the thousands of doctors and scientists that are on the frontlines of this disease because you watched some Youtube videos made by people just as nutty as you. That's not enlightenment. It's narcissism.
  2. Makes sense, and under some conditions I may end up recommending filtering under vacuum to our customers. Sorry for the thread hijack @daveflintstone
  3. I understand filtration, and that filters work on pressure differential. I stand by what I wrote, and I'm not sure what you're claiming is "just not correct". Is it the word "efficient"? I guess that word isn't very precise. Sure, all other things being equal, you will get the same result given the same pressure differential regardless of whether that pressure differential is created by pulling through the filter or pushing through it. However, every time I've dealt with one of our customers who is having issues with their filtration—like air leaks causing the filter housing to fill up with air from the atmosphere and slowing down their filtration—the issue has been on the suction side of the equation. It usually ends up being a process line leak or a bad gasket somewhere upstream. When they're able to move the pump further upstream, the problem goes away or the leak is found. For that reason I say again: unless there is a compelling reason to do so, it makes more sense to push through filters—either with pumps or gas/air—and every commercial bottling/filtration facility I've seen adheres to this principle unless they're using a vacuum filler. Again, by relying on vacuum to pull through the filter you leave usable filter lifespan on the table since the greatest vacuum you could hope to pull is 29.9 Hg, and filters generally clog at 35 psid. Since you can never achieve 35 psid with vacuum alone, your filters will appear to be "clogged" more quickly. So, in that sense, any filter with a recommend changeout pressure greater than 15 psid is "meant" to operate beyond what vacuum is capable of. Sounds like sucking through filters has worked well for you, so don't let me try to talk you out of it. However, if I were advising someone on setting up a standard tank-to-tank filter with a pump, I can think of no good reason to advise them to pull through the filter. You could do it and still control the flow through the means you outline—increasing the pressure at the inlet side and installing a flow control valve—but you could also just use a positive displacement pump upstream of the filter and completely avoid such byzantine measures.
  4. You can pull through filters, but unless there's a compelling reason to do so, it is less efficient than pushing through them, and there are some strong arguments against pulling through filters. Some positive displacement pumps can pull excellent vacuum—air diaphragm or peristaltic pumps, for example pull a very strong vacuum. However, even a "perfect" vacuum (which isn't possible to achieve on earth) is only about 14.7 psi. Most filters are not considered clogged until they reach about 35 psi of pressure differential So, you definitely can pull through filters. It may work perfectly fine for some applications, particularly if the filtered product has very low solids and isn't likely to clog up the filter anytime soon. However, you will be leaving filter lifespan on the table since your filters will be clogged at less than half their usable life. Also, finding vacuum leaks is no fun. I'd rather try to diagnose a leak under pressure than under vacuum. Anyway, this is all academic. If you're filtering tank-to-tank and you're using a pump, you should definitely put the filters after the pump and push through the filter. Pulling through the filter increases the risk of pump cavitation and dry running. The enolmatic is a vacuum filler, so no choice there, and no harm, really. The upside for the Enolmatic vendors is that they get to sell more filters since the filters will necessarily be considered clogged more quickly. Since the Mori Filler is not a vacuum filler, we always put the inline filter after the pump. If you do find that one of your positive displacement pumps is generating more vacuum than pressure, contact NASA immediately.
  5. While I've not bottled spirits myself, I've sold a whole lot of filters. Since there are no takers yet, I'll chime in: What I hear from customers when they change subtle micron sizes is that there is usually no difference in appearance, but there may be changes to flow rate and filter longevity. It depends on the product, the filter, and how observant or persnickety the user is. In general, you shouldn't see a difference at submicron levels. Polishing filtration—that is, filtration for appearance—typically happens at > 1µm. Filtration at < 1µm is typically for the reduction of micro organisms. The human eye can't see individual particles smaller than about 70 µm. You can see the effects of a lot of small particles together as haze, which typically means that the product has particles in the 1-5 µm range. So, you should be able to remove most particulate haze by filtering down to 1 micron. Pretty straightforward…except 1 micron doesn't always mean 1 micron. Depending on the type of filter you're using and the manufacturer, 1 micron may be a "nominal" rating. For example, Brand X may call a filter 1 micron if it removes 90% of particles at 1 micron, whereas Brand Y may call a filter 1 micron only if it removes 99% of particles at 1 micron. So the results you see from filtering at 1µm using Brand X's filters may be different than the results you see using Brand Y's. Take it all together, and basing filter selection on the experience of other users may not translate to how different filters work for you. I typically advise customers to try a couple of different 10" filters themselves and see if there are any noticeable differences. That's the only way to know for sure. On the other hand, I've had customers who swear that a 0.65µm absolute final filter gives their product a "Bud Light" brightness that they did not see at, say 1.2µm absolute. Every situation is different… Anyway, we carry a bunch of filtration stuff for distilleries. Happy to talk to anyone about filtration and their product.
  6. Awesome. We've been noodling on the design for a long time. This one ticks all the boxes for me. Simple, inexpensive, precise, and flexible. No fiddling with individual nozzles, and you can level all your bottle at once. Let me know if you have any feedback after use.
  7. Hey Gundog48. We sell a lot of filtration systems. By far we sell more cartridge filtration systems to distilleries in particular unless they are running at huge volumes. For the users producing liqueurs or botanicals with a higher solids content they typically go with multi-stage cartridge setup to step down incrementally from coarse to fine, and some do start with lenticular or 40 x 40 plate and frame setups. The rule of thumb is that a typical commercial depth cartridge filters 3-5 GPM per 10 inches. So an unloaded 30" cartridge filters at a rate of 9-15 GPM. Coarser filters might have a higher flow rate. Finer filters usually have a lower flow rate. Flow rate is one consideration, but also bear in mind that even if you don't need the flow rate of a 30" filter, you will get more onstream life since 30" gives you more surface area, and therefore more dirt-holding capacity. In terms of initial sizing, desired flow rate is the most important step. There are lots of cartridges available for standard Code 7 housing, from ultra-coarse to ultra-fine, and in lots of different materials. At that point you could spend lots of time and money on testing which cartridges, but it's usually easier to just buy a small range of cartridges and try them out to find out what works best for you. Since Code 7 cartridges twist and lock into place, you can use 10", 20" and 30" cartridges in a 30" housing, so I typically recommend people get a 30" housing. The difference in price is nominal. Then you can buy a few 10" cartridges for testing, which is much cheaper. So, if you're initial product is fairly solids-heavy, and you're trying to get to 2µm in final filtration, a 2 or 3-stage setup should get you there. Here's what we offer in terms of all-in-one packages that distilleries like a lot: TCW DoublePlus TCW TriplePlus (good for liqueurs and heavy botanical-products where the users were previously having to run multiple passes, and were able to filter in a single pass).
  8. @ryanh You're right, but I prefer not to rely on this method because some users find it's more difficult to get a proper seal against the neck of the bottle. However, if it works for you, then it's by far the simplest solution. We're going to put the micro-adjust tray into production with the feedback from @Skaalvenn. We don't get the trays separately from Mori, so for now if you'd like us to modify one we'll need the original tray back in the shop. Ultimately I'm estimating we'll price it at $150-175 as an optional add-on, but through April 1st, 2020 we will do it for $75 + shipping, and it should take about a week to turn around once we receive it.
  9. @John Bassett: Most distilleries use an air diaphragm pump sized according to their needs. Probably the most popular one we sell is the SimpleSpirits 43. They can pull liquid from about 15 feet dry, and 30 feet wet. The 43 is large enough that bits of char up to about 1/8" won't have any adverse effect. You can use smaller AODD pumps, but might want to put an inline mesh gasket screen to prevent solids from getting caught in the check valves. You can use an electric pump, but we recommend keeping the VFD control outside of any areas designated for C1D2. In those cases, an SQN 20 is a nice little pump that can self-prime from about 10 feet dry and uses a C1D2 motor. You could go centrifugal, but priming from barrels could be a pain.
  10. Thanks for the write-up @Skaalvenn We're on v3 of the infinitely-adjustable tray prototype. I think this one's a winner in terms of being customizable and not too complicated to build (read: expensive) but feedback will be invaluable.
  11. It's not a bad idea, and quite often it's how wineries deal with the same issue, where lees and sediment collect at the bottom of the barrel. Our curved barrel racking wands allow you to angle into barrels already sitting on a rack without having to move them around, and they have an adjustable bolt at the bottom that allows you to keep the inlet of the wand off the very bottom where all the crud is.
  12. Yes, we have sold our pumpover carts for this very purpose. When we sell them as barrel dump sumps we don’t put on the handles for lifting the perforated screen in and out, but rather weld on a "V" to keep the barrel stable like a barrel rack.
  13. We sell a lot of cartridge filters in those sizes. The most popular ones we sell are Graver QMC from 0.6 to 10µ, and Graver GFC 1µ. Probably the next most common question I hear after "how long do filters last before they clog?" is "what size do I use to filter out particles without removing flavor?". For spirits it would be pretty challenging to remove flavor using normal dead-end filtration like the cartridges linked above. The things that add flavor to your spirit are almost certainly entirely dissolved in solution. That is to say, they are not particles that would be caught in a filter, but are liquids that will pass right through. Unless you are running your spirits through nanofiltration or ultrafiltration, you can rest assured that filters are just removing the large particles like bit of charcoal dust, bits of barrel char, etc., and not having any impact on flavor.
  14. Filters are filters. Not sure why there is any question about which one will work for the Enolmaster, but maybe there's something I'm missing. It's been many years since we stopped selling Tenco fillers so I don't recall completely, but I've been looking at pictures of the unit online and it's just a standalone filter housing with a hose barb inlet and outlet. The only odd thing about their unit is that it uses vacuum to pull through the filter, which means you'll get less life out of filters than you would if you were pushing through them with a positive displacement pump, which is the way we set up Mori Fillers with inline filter. Any filter housing should technically work. It's just a question of plumbing it inline with your Tenco filler: Polypropylene filter housing Stainless steel housing Professional-grade housing It looks like all you would need to do is get either a hose barb x thread or hose barb x tri clamp fitting to make one of those work just like the Tenco version.
  15. We're getting great feedback on another pump that's a slam dunk for hot mash. Ampco ZP1.They're designed to be completely parts-interchangeable with Waukesha Universal 1 pumps. The main benefit is the all-stainless head rather than the painted mild steel head that waukesha uses on U1 pumps. Like Waukeshas, they're not cheap, but they pump from -40°–300°F without any issues. For the budget-conscious the Jabsco flexible impeller pumps are still a solid choice as long as you keep in mind their limitations, but if you want to turn it on and forget it, these are a great option. Check 'em out: https://store.tcwequipment.com/products/ampco-zp1-30-sanitary-positive-displacement-pump
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