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PeteB last won the day on October 24 2018

PeteB had the most liked content!

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About PeteB

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    Tasmania, Australia
  • Interests
    Distilling, plough to bottle
    Professional Sand and Ice Sculptor
    repairing water mills
    Making biodiesel

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  1. I am reasonably confident I have worked out a very simple solution to preventing surging. Throw a small hand full of boiling chips in the pot. These can be made from broken dinner plates or ceramic tiles. I noticed my glass benchtop still was surging, the pot would boil rapidly then stop and suck back through the condenser. I threw in a few chips of a broken coffee cup and got a very smooth boiling rate. Unfortunately my memory had faded in 50 years, I had forgotten that we always used boiling chips in chemistry lab at Uni. Without boiling chips the liquid becomes slightly superheated then boils off all of a sudden, then slows down again.
  2. For every 1 Kg of 36% you add 0.2481 Kg of 95.7% to bring up to 50% Get yourself a copy of Alcodens, you can download a trial version that will give you about 12 test runs https://www.katmarsoftware.com/alcodens-download.htm
  3. If you still have the heads and tails then mix back and re-run. If not then do as you suggested and add some to your next few batches. If you are cutting by nose and taste you should still end up with full flavour. The only way I see you could end up with less flavour is if you needed to add a lot of water to keep your pot charge at below 60 proof
  4. Also found out the Scottish name for a GRANT is an UNDERBACK
  5. I have just returned from visiting all the distilleries on Islay, Scotland. I asked about recirculating at the start (Volauf) and none were doing it which surprised me. They also stir the grain bed between water additions which would let more fines through. I am fairly sure most Australian malt distillers will recirculate to clear up the wort.
  6. Small footprint, smaller heating cost, smaller cooling cost, use as stripping still then very economical.
  7. Once you get into production you might experiment by not doing Vorlauf, small amount of grain particles and yeast in direct fire can improve complexity of spirit
  8. For a small lauter tun I don't think a mechanical rake is necessary, a hand paddle will do just as good a job and way cheaper My Son removed the rake from his 1,000 litre system, it was in the way and achieved very little
  9. Can someone tell me what a "grant" is? A "home-rolled grant" sounds like something to eat for lunch 😁
  10. With Malt whisky i pitch all the yeast into the fermenter as soon as I have a few litres of wort at correct temperature. Some wild "infection" before yeast added can improve the flavour and complexity of whisky. With my Rye or Oat wort I leave it overnight to sour naturally before adding yeast. It really improves the fruity notes. 100% malted grain can be a bit riskier because the kilning of the malt kills off most of the natural bacteria that help protect the grain from nasties.
  11. I bought a non-certified glass hydrometer from Coleparmer. I noticed I was getting unexpected readings. Discovered a small crack in the base and liquid was very slowly leaking into it. It was a manufacturing fault and Coleparmer replaced it. Also I assumed glass thermometers won't change but I have found some red spirit ones become inaccurate. A small section of spirit can break away and move further up the capillary. Sales guy told me they must be stored vertically.
  12. Are you planning to move to Australia? "rules governing spirits production in Australia" It is not just one document. For example there is Food standards, occupational health and safety, flammable liquids, local council, and the ATO Excise department ( TTB equivalent) just to name a few.
  13. The high temperature amylase I use is Spezyme Alpha, liquid Amalyse
  14. I have tried adding grain before high temp enzymes (accidentally) and have "spent the afternoon spear fishing with a mash paddle" The high temperature enzymes (amylase) I use are designed to add to the hot water before the grain, we end up with way less balling, and they are much easier to break up, and the yield is significantly higher. My oats and rye are hammer-milled fine, looks like flour but has a slight coarse feel. I will try a lower strike temperature then raise the temperature to see if there is any improvement. I hope it is not better because it is a bit time consuming with my setup.
  15. I have not done corn but regularly do rye and oats. That "rubbery ring" you mention, if I didn't agitate vigorously for long enough after adding the grain I got that about 4 inches deep on the bottom. Very hard to break up. Recently I discovered high temperature amylase, add it ....before ....adding grain. Strike temperature 190f. drops to 175 after addition Much less agitation required and balling is much less of a problem and my yield has increased dramatically.
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