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junglejimmy

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About junglejimmy

  • Rank
    Distiller
  • Birthday May 13

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    Male
  • Location
    Brisbane, Australia

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  1. junglejimmy

    Bain Marie Heat transfer oil

    I am leaning towards using the heat transfer oil. It only cost around $800 AUD for a 200L drum. The smoking point for the oil is around 300C (572f), so getting enough heat to boil the distillate should not be a problem. blustar, you said there would be thermal lag with the water bath steam option. Would there be the same problem with heat transfer oil. I have no experience with bain marie systems to speak of, however, when cooking with oil on a stove top it seems very responsive to the heat input.
  2. junglejimmy

    Bain Marie Heat transfer oil

    Started my own distillery about 8 months ago in Australia, and after all this time I am finally about to get my License to manufacture alcohol. About to purchase a 400L Bain Marie Pot still and a 400L Bain marie mash tun. At this point steam generation is not an option as I would like to be up and running as soon as possible. What are you guys thoughts on the bath medium. Water or Oil? I am looking for the most energy efficient option as electricity prices in Australia are some of the most expensive in the world. I have found a local supplier of Heat transfer oil. http://www.hi-tecoils.com.au/product/heat-transfer-oils-12-90/. Is this Oil suitable? I have seen that some guys use Mobil 46. I have come to understand that the number refers to the viscosity of the oil, where the higher number is more thick. The Supplier says they can only do 32 or 64. Would the lower number be more suitable? Thanks for your help!
  3. junglejimmy

    Malted Wheat or Enzymes

    Great! Thanks! Would be good to eliminate fungamyl from my inventory. I just started a Distillery in Australia and have to buy 20 Litre drums of the stuff. No way I can use that much with the amount I am currently producing. You say that the Glucoamylase will remain active if fermenting on grain. Does that Significantly increase the yield? Currently I am using a false bottom mash tun to remove the solids, as it is less messy. For my experiments I am using 5kg grain bills with 25 Litres of water. I then Use another 10 Litres of water to sparge the grains. The standard Gravity always comes out to about 1.40 with about 27 litres of wort.. Would I get significantly higher fermenting on the grain? I am from Australia by the way. Sorry for the metric units.
  4. junglejimmy

    Malted Wheat or Enzymes

    So you say that "It’s common for the amylases in malt to create nonfermentable dextrins. Glucoamylase can reduce these dextrins to fermentable sugars." Would it then only be useful to use glucoamylase (AMG) and not the liquification enzyme (fungamyl) for a flaked wheat and malted wheat mash. I feel like the malt is a lot more powerful in liquefying the mash. The clear sugar wort tends to rise and collect at the top more readily.
  5. junglejimmy

    Malted Wheat or Enzymes

    So i've been experimenting with malted wheat and enzymes when added to flaked wheat to make Vodka. Novozymes AMG glucoamylase and Fungamyl Q alpha amylase in particular. I am trying to maximum conversion efficiency and I feel like the malt used in conjunction with the enzymes achieves the best result. Just wondering if the intended use of the enzymes is to always use them in conjunction with the malts to maximize efficiency or are they intended to be used in the absence of malts?
  6. junglejimmy

    Legality of exporting under aged whiskey

    to Silk City Distillers: I have some conflicting info about making white whiskey and rum. There are two paragraphs in the law document that suggest it is illegal. There is the law I posted above for manufacture in Australia and this paragraph for importation into Australia. Customs Act 1901 For imported products, Section 105A outlines the requirements of: (1) Brandy, whisky or rum imported into Australia must not be delivered from the control of the Customs unless a Collector is satisfied that it has been matured by storage in wood for at least 2 years. However, when you look online at Australian liquor retailers they are all importing and selling white whiskey that clearly states that is has been aged for less than 2 years. Ideally I would like to make and sell oak chipped aged whiskey that has colour, as a clear whiskey would probably be a novelty to most and not sell as well. I
  7. Hello, I'm from Australia and currently in the process of starting my own distillery. I plan on initially making Vodka and Gin as I do not have the capital to purchase and store barrels to make Whiskey. I was recently contacted by a friend of mine in Asia who would like me to whiskey for him. He would import it into his country and bottle and label it under his own brand. I told him that in Australia whiskey must be aged in a wood barrel for a minimum of 2 years. He told me that these rules do not apply in his country and whiskey aged for a couple of months on oak chips would suffice. In Australia the law states that: Excise Act 1901 For Australian manufactured goods, the Excise Act 1901 as amended by “The Excise Laws Amendment (Fuel Tax Reform and Other Measures) Act 2006” stipulates: “Section 77FI - Delivery from CEO’s control of brandy, whisky or rum (1) Brandy, whisky or rum manufactured in Australia must not be delivered from the CEO’s control unless it has been matured by storage in wood for at least 2 years. Does anyone have any experience with exporting or selling whiskey aged on oak chips for less than 2 years? Is there any way to get around this law?
  8. junglejimmy

    pH buffer / stabilizer suggestions

    I've been experimenting with an all unmalted grain recipe for the last couple of months. Have been using enzymes for saccharification, namely alpha amylase and glucoamylase. I have also been using RO water and adding minerals to build my own water profile. The results have been great, however the final pH is really low at pH 3.3 and the wash is taking a very long time to reach final gravity. I think I need to add a buffer / stabilizer so that the pH doesn't crash so much. I know beer guys use Five Star 5.2 stabilizer, however I have heard that it add 100ppm of sodium, which an effect taste. Are there any other commercially available solution? Any suggestions? Thanks!
  9. junglejimmy

    Steam or Electric?

    Hey guys, So we are thinking about upgrading to a 12" 16-plate reflux still. I think that a 200 Gallon boiler would be sufficient. At the current time we are running a 8" 8-plate still on electric. SO if we were to choose steam we would also have to invest in a boiler. If we were to stay with electric would it be possible to run a still of this size? what would be the power requirements? As in how many 15kW heating elements do you think it would require? Thanks
  10. junglejimmy

    Removing color from natural oak aged white rum

    From their infosheet they have 4 activated carbons suitable for rum. Two in powdered form (Norit sx plus & Norit DX10) and two in Granular form (Norit pk 1-3 & Norit gcn 830 plus). DO you know which would be most suitable for removing color but still retaining the taste? Also, does the granular carbon you use remove the color? I'm still wondering whether its the phsical form of the carbon that removes color or maybe its the treatment (acid wash) that is the main factor.
  11. junglejimmy

    Removing color from natural oak aged white rum

    So i plugged "Norit" and "Activated Carbon" into google and it came up with cobotcorp. They specialize in activated carbon for the food and beverage industry, so i'm guessing that's the one. I'll give them a buzz and hopefully we can come up with a solution. Thanks.
  12. junglejimmy

    Removing color from natural oak aged white rum

    I cant find "Norit" in the members list. Does he have a website for the company he works for?
  13. junglejimmy

    Removing color from natural oak aged white rum

    Thanks for the imput guys. Those are some things that I haven't thought about. After reading a lot about Bacardi they say their process is to ferment on molasses (no mention of sugar), distill using a reflux column (no mention of the number of plates), carbon filter, age in natural oak barrels for a year, then carbon filter to remove the color, then blend. I sounds like a complicated process, and I know i wont be able to get it exactly the same. I will be happy if its in the ballpark. I feel like the taste at the moment, with the oak chips, is in the ballpark. Its the color that is the problem.
  14. Hey guys, I'm in a bit of a pickle. A few months back my boss approached me and said he wanted me to make a white rum that could be a substitute to Bacardi, which could compete in house rum market. I've never made rum before,but i told him I could do it. Couldn't be that difficult......right? So fast forward a few months later, countless hours of research and a few failed attempts, I am now the stage where i am happy with the taste. I am using a half molasses half sugar wash with ec-1118. Striping it and then running through our 4 plate column still. After that i filter it and age it on natural oak chips. After a week on the chips it tastes amazing. Smooth and creamy with a hint of vanilla. Its at this point i am a little bit stuck. I have tried few methods of carbon filtering, but so far the color still remains. I ran it through our system we use for vodka, which is just a water filtering machine with a carbon filter housing. No luck with this method as the color was still there. I'm thinking there might not be enough contact time, so then I used pulverized carbon and added it to the rum. I filtered out the carbon, however the color still remains. Is there a special method to remove the color? Maybe even a special type of carbon that I need to be using? Any input would be greatly appreciated as i would love to get my boss and the sales team off my back.
  15. junglejimmy

    Filtered Water for grain mash

    Ah ok. That puts an emd to that little experiment. I know the mash environment needs to be acidic for the yeast. Disnt realise it needed a pH buffer. So then my next question would be, what is the ideal final pH for a wheat based vodka? I've read that the ideal final pH for wheat beers is in the high 3's or low 4's. Is that what I should be aiming for?
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