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Georgeous

Best way to chill your mash????

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Be careful pumping ethanol/water solution through any kind of electrical powered unit such as a chiller- any leak forming an ethanol fume is both flammable and explosive.

 To add cooling you need a fan unit and another heat exchanger ( or coils submerged in your pond). I offer a glycol cooler with pump that works great- just ask Jesse at Trident Stills who bought one for the distillery he put up.

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19 hours ago, twalshact said:

Glenlyon, how big is your chiller ?

Do you use a reservoir tank ? How big?

twalsh,

 

What's your tap water temp?  Are you on a well or municipal water?  Is your water cheap?

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so how do you use one of these tube in tube systems? i assume you go from bottom drain of mash tun to pump to chiller then back in to mash tun until desired temperature is reached?

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You could use these kinds of heat exchangers all sorts of different ways.

Recirculating on the tun, single pass from tun to fermenter, you can use them to preheat mash water using hot stillage, hell you could probably pass steam through the shell side to heat mash if you were really daring (pretty sure Paul wouldn't recommend this).

It's just a heat exchanger.  Clean fluids, hot or cold, on the shell side, process fluids, hot or cold, in the tube side.

 

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Single pass on the mash for city water cooling (low flow, high temp diff on water), multi-pass for chiller/reservoir cooling (higher flow, low Temp diff on water side).

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i think a much more efficient design would be a 2" inner tube and a 4" outer shell ran in counterflow. You would have twice the cooling passing through. However this would be a shit load more expensive. 

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Back when i bought my system from china they tried to sell me a similar chiller, but i did not understand the tech drawing they sent me, i guess i do know. they sent it to me in chinese and cold not envision it. i guess this is the standard. i am attaching drawing they sent me back then

2管道换热器(2019.05.pdf

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1 hour ago, Georgeous said:

i think a much more efficient design would be a 2" inner tube and a 4" outer shell ran in counterflow. You would have twice the cooling passing through. However this would be a shit load more expensive. 

A set of smaller tubes in the shell (or tube-in-shell) has much more surface area = more cooling capacity than a tube-in-tube like you are describing in the same footprint. The most efficient in surface area in a physical footprint is a plate exchanger. The disadvantage is particle size and ease of cleanliness, its easier to clean and pass larger particles through a tube-in-tube than a tube-in-shell or a plate exchanger. We use a tube-in-shell, 4 pass with 3x 3/4 inch tubes. It works awesome for 30 gallon beer, but can be plugged if you aren't careful. It would be much harder to plug a 1.5 inch or 2 inch tube-in-tube, but much less efficient and more expensive to get the same cooling rate.

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On 5/15/2019 at 10:51 AM, Tom Lenerz said:

A set of smaller tubes in the shell (or tube-in-shell) has much more surface area = more cooling capacity than a tube-in-tube like you are describing in the same footprint. The most efficient in surface area in a physical footprint is a plate exchanger. The disadvantage is particle size and ease of cleanliness, its easier to clean and pass larger particles through a tube-in-tube than a tube-in-shell or a plate exchanger. We use a tube-in-shell, 4 pass with 3x 3/4 inch tubes. It works awesome for 30 gallon beer, but can be plugged if you aren't careful. It would be much harder to plug a 1.5 inch or 2 inch tube-in-tube, but much less efficient and more expensive to get the same cooling rate.

that definately makes alot more sense, as that would have more cooling to heat exchange. where did you get yours Tom?

 

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I still enjoy making beer from the hobbyist level. I make 10 gallon batches. When i chill after boil i use a blichmann plate chiller (no grain in mashes with beer) i pump to the chiller and back in to the wort in a loop until the entire batch is at pitching temperature. This being a 60plate chiller it will bring my wort from boil to ground water temp + - 2°F. I dont have to recirculate it back in to the hot wort but it does help reduce cold break plus aerates the wort prior to pitching. Problem for me is ground water temperature in texas is about 90°F just about year round. Yeah for about 2 weeks of winter i may get ground water down in the 70's and man i brew a lot of beer then. This technique is the same as the local brewery i use to volunteer at did theirs and it worked well for them. 

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