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Pre bottling filter recommendation.


whiskeytango

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Dumb question but is it possible to add an inline filter of some sort to a gravity fed Mori filler? Maybe pump into a filter that goes into a tank that feeds into bottling machine? Any cheap solutions would be wonderful!

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3 hours ago, daveflintstone said:

connect a 10" cartridge filter housing between the pump and holding tank on the filler.  Put a sub micron filter in and you're done.

Any suggestions on where to buy the housing and filter? I was planning on using a flowjet for the pump. Sounds like a great idea!!

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Any of y'all ever set product sit to try and have byproducts come out of solution and filter then? We have filtered before bottle and still had some kind of blue tinted particulate come out of solution months or days down the line.

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This says Alcohol but who knows what that really means. This is the best i have found so far: https://pentairindustrial.com/industrial-filtration-solutions/liquid-cartridge-housings/52/high-temperature/ Is my moonshine going to taste like nylon?

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Dude get a stainless housing.  They're all over the place.  Don't remember where I got mine.  But I'm going to get a new one anyway because I'm tired of dismantling it to unscrew the top.  One that uses triclamps or wingnut things is better for me.

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Get a hold of Pall or 3M or any number of filter manufacturers and get the appropriate housing.  Filters are made for different purposes and have filter housings to match them.  If you're set on buying cheap parts made for use with different chemicals, then your standards for the finished product should be equally low.  

ScottLab has a facility in Canada and can get you everything you need. 

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Next question. Other than the 5 and .5 micron filters so there a specific material the filter must be? I assume so but again i am a noob so any info would be great! 

Oh and does the 5 micro filter come before the .5 i assume?

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Found everything in Canada in stainless! Hopefully the filters are fine in Polypropylene. The guy said when i switch from spirit i can ziplock the filter and put in the fridge to reuse. Anyone have experience with this? I mean they are only 10$ish each but i am doing like 50-100 gallon final bottling runs so i don't really want to toss a filter that could last 1000's of gallons you know? 

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We throw away our 1um 10" poly pre-filter between each use as they only cost about $1 each. For the considerably higher price polishing filters (Type7, $30 ea) we dry them a just a little and then put them into a ziplock and into the freezer.

We have found the 10" poly filters to be mediocre at best for final bottling, though they do work. We had an issue a couple times of some carbon dust making it's way into the bottles even with using two of them inline.  Knock on wood, we haven't had the problem with the more expensive ones.

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I have my stainless steel filter housings in series with all stainless NTP ins and outs. I have polypropylene 5 and .5 filters. Now what? Do i have to run water through to prep the filters? Any suggestions? I am filtering and bottling such small amounts to start (300L) per batch i dont want to mess anything up haha. Thanks everyone again!!

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run the spirit through the filters a enough to clear the line and any debris on the filter itself, returning the spirit to the bottling tank. 

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I typically run RO through my spirit filters and lines first.  Then drain any water and filter the spirit to the final (bottling) tank.  I will then purge with RO to remove any remaining spirit in the lines and filter housings to the tank.  In the final tank, I'll take a gauge,  proof to bottle strength, and then do the final gauge.  The bottling process itself only has a small filter cartridge to catch any stray dust or particulate that may have been in the bottling tank (rare), I don't consider it final filtration.

I hate product losses, especially since I bottle smaller batches.  Leaving a proof gallon in the cartridges, filters, and lines seems silly to me, that's real money.

Sure, it's a couple of extra steps to reduce those losses, but the payback is significant.

 

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I ran my 2 stainless filters into the bottle tank and it all worked like charm! Thanks everyone for all your help! I decided to flush with RO and it seems to work great. I am still not sure about the filters i bought though. I will probably look for a better online source since I am in less of a hurry now. Thanks again!

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On 6/26/2018 at 11:01 AM, Skaalvenn said:

We throw away our 1um 10" poly pre-filter between each use as they only cost about $1 each. For the considerably higher price polishing filters (Type7, $30 ea) we dry them a just a little and then put them into a ziplock and into the freezer.

We have found the 10" poly filters to be mediocre at best for final bottling, though they do work. We had an issue a couple times of some carbon dust making it's way into the bottles even with using two of them inline.  Knock on wood, we haven't had the problem with the more expensive ones.

 

Where do you source your filters from?

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Guessing St. Pat's. They sell a Chinese 10" poly cartridge for $30.

The $1 filters are probably double open end melt-blown cartridges.

The problem we tend to see with DOE melt-blowns is that it's easy to push by them because their integrity hinges on how tight you're able screw your housing together, hence why some people complain about large visible particles making it through the filters. Since they typically have minimal (if any) structural support it is easier to crush them, so you can't overtighten the housings either with them. The only way to tell if you got it right is if your filtered product comes out clean at the end of the filtering run. That's why we recommend using the industry-standard Code 7 cartridges with a structural support cage. More expensive upfront, but there is at least more assurance that you are actually filtering.

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On 7/5/2018 at 4:34 PM, MichaelAtTCW said:

Guessing St. Pat's. They sell a Chinese 10" poly cartridge for $30.

The $1 filters are probably double open end melt-blown cartridges.

The problem we tend to see with DOE melt-blowns is that it's easy to push by them because their integrity hinges on how tight you're able screw your housing together, hence why some people complain about large visible particles making it through the filters. Since they typically have minimal (if any) structural support it is easier to crush them, so you can't overtighten the housings either with them. The only way to tell if you got it right is if your filtered product comes out clean at the end of the filtering run. That's why we recommend using the industry-standard Code 7 cartridges with a structural support cage. More expensive upfront, but there is at least more assurance that you are actually filtering.

Thank you for the input!

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  • 1 year later...

Update! Bottling housing are working amazing...but i have noticed the clear floating in some of our products and even some granular stuff from some of our infused product (mint leaves). Most products are perfect but i am not 100% happy. I re read this thread and pretty sure my filters are just cheap / junk. I am buying these:

MB10N0.50N (0.5 Micron)

MB10N05N (5 Micron)

http://rainfresh.ca/wp/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/MB-Series-Sep-2016.pdf

I am running them first through the 5 micron then .5 micron and doing a pretty good RO water rinse before running the spirits. 

These are like 8-10$ each so its nice for our small batches as they are pretty much throwaway. BUT the end result has not been perfect and any help figuring it out would be amazing! Thanks!

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On 11/10/2019 at 10:38 AM, prcdc said:

Update! Bottling housing are working amazing...but i have noticed the clear floating in some of our products and even some granular stuff from some of our infused product (mint leaves). Most products are perfect but i am not 100% happy. I re read this thread and pretty sure my filters are just cheap / junk. I am buying these:

MB10N0.50N (0.5 Micron)

MB10N05N (5 Micron)

http://rainfresh.ca/wp/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/MB-Series-Sep-2016.pdf

I am running them first through the 5 micron then .5 micron and doing a pretty good RO water rinse before running the spirits. 

These are like 8-10$ each so its nice for our small batches as they are pretty much throwaway. BUT the end result has not been perfect and any help figuring it out would be amazing! Thanks!

You need damn good eyes to see anything smaller than 0.5uM.  I always suggest 0.5uM as the final bottling filter as its sterile, that is yeast and most other spoilage microbes will not pass through 0.5uM. I have good resukts with cheap poly spun water filter cartridges.  Use one per batch, but purge with product frst for say 50 litres and return to the tank for re-filtering.

If your still getting particulates IMMEDIATELY upon bottling in the bottles, then there is contamination, work through the following;

  1. Are the bottles clean, corks as well (dusty corks are a common oversight)
  2. Is the bottle wash water equally clean
  3. Is there contamination in the downstream filter hoses, or the bottling head.
  4. The is most likely a bleed in the filter canister or the filer membrane, where unfiltered liquid is getting around the filter.

Some general questions;

  1. Does the particulate settle out eventually?
  2. Does it get worse after bottling?
  3. If you bottle filtered distilled water, do you get the same contamination.
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