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Pre bottling filter recommendation.

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Dumb question but is it possible to add an inline filter of some sort to a gravity fed Mori filler? Maybe pump into a filter that goes into a tank that feeds into bottling machine? Any cheap solutions would be wonderful!

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It's not ideal but it works: check out buon vino super jet.  To be on the safe side, you'd want to use your own pneumatic pump. 

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connect a 10" cartridge filter housing between the pump and holding tank on the filler.  Put a sub micron filter in and you're done.

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3 hours ago, daveflintstone said:

connect a 10" cartridge filter housing between the pump and holding tank on the filler.  Put a sub micron filter in and you're done.

Any suggestions on where to buy the housing and filter? I was planning on using a flowjet for the pump. Sounds like a great idea!!

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Any of y'all ever set product sit to try and have byproducts come out of solution and filter then? We have filtered before bottle and still had some kind of blue tinted particulate come out of solution months or days down the line.

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This says Alcohol but who knows what that really means. This is the best i have found so far: https://pentairindustrial.com/industrial-filtration-solutions/liquid-cartridge-housings/52/high-temperature/ Is my moonshine going to taste like nylon?

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Dude get a stainless housing.  They're all over the place.  Don't remember where I got mine.  But I'm going to get a new one anyway because I'm tired of dismantling it to unscrew the top.  One that uses triclamps or wingnut things is better for me.

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Get a hold of Pall or 3M or any number of filter manufacturers and get the appropriate housing.  Filters are made for different purposes and have filter housings to match them.  If you're set on buying cheap parts made for use with different chemicals, then your standards for the finished product should be equally low.  

ScottLab has a facility in Canada and can get you everything you need. 

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Next question. Other than the 5 and .5 micron filters so there a specific material the filter must be? I assume so but again i am a noob so any info would be great! 

Oh and does the 5 micro filter come before the .5 i assume?

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hit up TCW they will get you fixed up with everything you need to bottle

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Found everything in Canada in stainless! Hopefully the filters are fine in Polypropylene. The guy said when i switch from spirit i can ziplock the filter and put in the fridge to reuse. Anyone have experience with this? I mean they are only 10$ish each but i am doing like 50-100 gallon final bottling runs so i don't really want to toss a filter that could last 1000's of gallons you know? 

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We throw away our 1um 10" poly pre-filter between each use as they only cost about $1 each. For the considerably higher price polishing filters (Type7, $30 ea) we dry them a just a little and then put them into a ziplock and into the freezer.

We have found the 10" poly filters to be mediocre at best for final bottling, though they do work. We had an issue a couple times of some carbon dust making it's way into the bottles even with using two of them inline.  Knock on wood, we haven't had the problem with the more expensive ones.

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On 6/19/2018 at 8:23 PM, prcdc said:

Dumb question but is it possible to add an inline filter of some sort to a gravity fed Mori filler?

call  @MichaelAtTCW .  

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I have my stainless steel filter housings in series with all stainless NTP ins and outs. I have polypropylene 5 and .5 filters. Now what? Do i have to run water through to prep the filters? Any suggestions? I am filtering and bottling such small amounts to start (300L) per batch i dont want to mess anything up haha. Thanks everyone again!!

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run the spirit through the filters a enough to clear the line and any debris on the filter itself, returning the spirit to the bottling tank. 

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I typically run RO through my spirit filters and lines first.  Then drain any water and filter the spirit to the final (bottling) tank.  I will then purge with RO to remove any remaining spirit in the lines and filter housings to the tank.  In the final tank, I'll take a gauge,  proof to bottle strength, and then do the final gauge.  The bottling process itself only has a small filter cartridge to catch any stray dust or particulate that may have been in the bottling tank (rare), I don't consider it final filtration.

I hate product losses, especially since I bottle smaller batches.  Leaving a proof gallon in the cartridges, filters, and lines seems silly to me, that's real money.

Sure, it's a couple of extra steps to reduce those losses, but the payback is significant.

 

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I ran my 2 stainless filters into the bottle tank and it all worked like charm! Thanks everyone for all your help! I decided to flush with RO and it seems to work great. I am still not sure about the filters i bought though. I will probably look for a better online source since I am in less of a hurry now. Thanks again!

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On 6/26/2018 at 11:01 AM, Skaalvenn said:

We throw away our 1um 10" poly pre-filter between each use as they only cost about $1 each. For the considerably higher price polishing filters (Type7, $30 ea) we dry them a just a little and then put them into a ziplock and into the freezer.

We have found the 10" poly filters to be mediocre at best for final bottling, though they do work. We had an issue a couple times of some carbon dust making it's way into the bottles even with using two of them inline.  Knock on wood, we haven't had the problem with the more expensive ones.

 

Where do you source your filters from?

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Guessing St. Pat's. They sell a Chinese 10" poly cartridge for $30.

The $1 filters are probably double open end melt-blown cartridges.

The problem we tend to see with DOE melt-blowns is that it's easy to push by them because their integrity hinges on how tight you're able screw your housing together, hence why some people complain about large visible particles making it through the filters. Since they typically have minimal (if any) structural support it is easier to crush them, so you can't overtighten the housings either with them. The only way to tell if you got it right is if your filtered product comes out clean at the end of the filtering run. That's why we recommend using the industry-standard Code 7 cartridges with a structural support cage. More expensive upfront, but there is at least more assurance that you are actually filtering.

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St Pat's is the worst...  

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On 7/5/2018 at 4:34 PM, MichaelAtTCW said:

Guessing St. Pat's. They sell a Chinese 10" poly cartridge for $30.

The $1 filters are probably double open end melt-blown cartridges.

The problem we tend to see with DOE melt-blowns is that it's easy to push by them because their integrity hinges on how tight you're able screw your housing together, hence why some people complain about large visible particles making it through the filters. Since they typically have minimal (if any) structural support it is easier to crush them, so you can't overtighten the housings either with them. The only way to tell if you got it right is if your filtered product comes out clean at the end of the filtering run. That's why we recommend using the industry-standard Code 7 cartridges with a structural support cage. More expensive upfront, but there is at least more assurance that you are actually filtering.

Thank you for the input!

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