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Hyko

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Everything posted by Hyko

  1. Some brewing books talk about using RO or other purified water for brewing. You just have to make up for the lack of minerals. Look up burtonizing.
  2. Simplest solution is to get a neck sleeve that completely covers the headspace in the bottle so nobody can see the condensation. That's what most people do. Also we've found that if we bottle a 60F spirit and then the next week the weather changes and it goes up to 80F (our storage space is not climate controlled), we have issues with corks popping, even with a heat shrink neck sleeve. We like to bottle slightly warmer spirit now to prevent that.
  3. We are currently using a manual ball valve on our 2" steam line to control our still. It makes adjusting heat input very difficult because I can't make the finite adjustments necessary to get the vapor temp in that sweet spot. Additionally lately I think the steam is starting to blow past the ball in the valve and causing some odd spikes in temperature. What's a good replacement for this set up? I've been looking at globe valves on mcmcaster, is this the way to go? Electric thermostat controlled valves are the ultimate goal but not currently an option. Cheers
  4. Hi, I was just about to make a topic on this exact issue as I am looking at optimizing our mash pH (it's currently around 6.2). I tried 5.2 buffer from a chemical supplier but it doesn't seem to do the trick. I even tried it on a small scale, adding 1x dose at a time until I gave up at 10x their recommended dosage and my pH was only 5.5. I am planning on doing a small scale assessment of citric and hydrochloric acid with our brewing water to see which works better/is more economical. Agporte, I'd love to know what you have concluded/ended up doing. And NEPA and Jeffw, if you use backset, doesn't that turn your whiskey into a sour mash whiskey? I've thought about doing that as well but that may have to be a separate product.
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