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SlickFloss last won the day on October 14

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  1. Anyone ever played around with LCP or variations on it? We've been experimenting on some really silly greasy ferments we've been doing. We modified by using activated carbon, letting sit in tank in walk in for a few weeks stirring every other day, then filtering out. More literally like chill filtration I guess now that Im writing it. We've also used jumbo lump maple charcoal same process. Have also tried throwing some polishing DE in with both types of carbon. Pretty interesting results, definitely takes tons of flavor out of product, which depending on the individual batch could be good or bad! Anyone else playing around like this? I am trying to build a "sock" for a 275 ss cube, which I imagine is more similar to how Jack is doing theirs. Idea being fill the cube with fresh coal. fill to top with new make spirit, let drain out the bottom using the sock to self filter carbon. Random Question. Doesn't some carbon need exceptionally cold temperatures to activate its odor absorbing properties? If so, does the traditional LCP process utilize this chill? Or do they skip it? Cheers
  2. You should just buy from Paul he knows what he’s designing. Will always help you. Helped you when he didn’t even have a sale out of you! don’t worry, if you don’t buy from Paul he’ll help you fix whatever defects your still comes with because it wasn’t designed by someone who knows what they’re doing!
  3. We make a lot of gin we charge at fifty and have never had a problem, but that works for our maceration goals. Sometimes some compounds are better InDifferent ranges, if you’re not hitting maceration flavor goals it could be concentration. You can always start high and proof down or start low proof up if you’re working with some wonky shit. 100 proof in my opinion is safe for a jacketed vessel. Other running elements may have other reccomendations. All equipment has unique input needs. cheers
  4. I make malted white winter wheat vodka once a year for our tasting room (didn't make it last year tasting room was closed, waiting on grain for this years. It's a finicky ferment and starch source, very sticky. Enzymes help better then a gluten rest. You've gotten a lot of really good advice so far on this, definitely mind the yeast. As my boy Silk said it's tough to wrap your head around but heavy wheats smear like nothing else I've ever used. What type of spirit are you looking for? I like malted winter wheat because if I fuck with it enough it can't be distilled to neutral and I am left with a light floral bouquet even at 191.6 proof. If you are looking for a traditional neutral you need to really mind a clean quick ferment with a yeast suited for the job. Good luck boss, hmu with any questions.
  5. Man of my word tried to order but out of stock! I may look to upgrade or I may wait for the two inch columns to come back in stock you're the man
  6. This is the answer. If you think you want any more expansions or just increased steam load in the future this is a place to save some time and money!
  7. I very rarely disagree with silk and I am not in this instance per se that would run it, but I would maybe even bump that up to a 50. To run all that, plus maintain constant header pressure, plus a little extra to put in a strahman hose and a steam wand (you can thank me later you got my number :) ) Edit: Forgot your original question, we run Miuras. We love them. Low Noxx lifeeeeeeeeee
  8. I think it depends on how good you are at storing ground grain and how good your milling partners are at milling and bagging grain. All ingredients are always best fresh but if you have a highly tuned production schedule with few hiccoughs and missed cooks, and you are using JIT or a structure close to or similar to JIT (like a few weeks worth of grain being delivered at a time, not months worth), and your facility and employees have been optimized for the storage of grain, I don't see a problem with it, we bring in 2 weeks worth of cooks in ground super sacks at a time and we don't have any problems. I have dedicated grain storage areas with humidity control, special sanitation protocols, and an exhaustive raw material intake process. You need to look out for respiration, mold, bugs, etc. For we have seen no or negligible difference in flavor, GC, or yields with our process (2 weeks grain brought in at a time).
  9. I use Spanish oak extensively but not cedar. Would love to try it myself.
  10. This is what I’m saying. Get yourself a stainless pot and some copper and wider up your own. Or buy one of them from paul hey Paul ima need one of them for out the woods at my father in laws! I’ll call ya tomorrow!
  11. This x 2 for sure, easy to pop on, but as I mentioned you'd be better off starting from scratch than from what I saw online when I googled double pot I apologize but what I was recomended got kind of convoluted because I'm a hilljack. What I was saying was given you are able to set up PIDS, you could build a better still than this to use yourself. I wasn't referring to additional automation. By design these double kettles (what im looking at specifically is the second picture from that its a Sutech but its a common Chinese design for moonshine stills there sold as a bunch of different names. this is the one im referring to. https://www.amazon.com/Suteck-Moonshine-Spirits-Distiller-Stainless/dp/B01A4EVWYY/ref=asc_df_B01A4EVWYY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167141564589&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9211746420770273950&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018886&hvtargid=pla-314031787122&psc=1 If i'm wrong disregard the following: First thing I don't like are them three clamps on there holding the lid on. The welds are shitty and I've seen them fail in operation before. I like that style of clamp in this exact application in other executions, but in the units of these I have run myself the welds are shitty weak and I've seen em pop. I also don't like the condenser and "second pot", which depending on how it is piped inside of there is likely functionally a thumper, sitting onto of the kettle. Kettle taking direct fire, any dribbles uh oh. and those stainless flex lines? They can leak for sure depending on manufacturer. As well as the copper ones for that matter. Never trust a fitting you didn't fit yourself. For those reasons I prefer them offset from the kettle. But also, beyond those reasons, I don't like the condenser being on top because it will absorb heat which is just more energy too balance in general, and I like the thumper to be self insulated, and heated by the vapor steam, not latent heat of the kettle. Gives more control on a finishing run. Also, get a cheap little pressure valve on that mother fucker or you could go kabloomey. This can helped with that clamp issue I mentioned. But beyond that, Ive never seen a whip I couldn't crack as long as it had energy to it, and I would include this rig on that. It is tricker to learn cuts on a still like this imo. Like I said, build a new one that better fits your purpose. Can still be rudimentary and cost effective.
  12. Sorry you're dealing with this shit, we have a great architect that has learned a lot with us through our growth. If you're looking for someone let me know I can share contact info. I think they were down at ADI this year actually, Sketchworks out of Middleton WI
  13. I fucking love you and the history you've mastered and shared friend
  14. given you are at the level of setting up PIDS, you could probably upgrade the still design yourself for very little money. As in build your own. Paul could sell you a better unit than this as well. I struggle with trying to be precise with this design because it lacks a lot of control by its functional nature. For instance, you can totally learn to crack any whip, but doesnt mean you can make any spirit on any whip. Some whips crack different and that's just that. This is a precursory response to your point I got sidetracked after looking it up, I will review rest of protocol and respond on issues I see if you think it would be helpful later
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