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Found 7 results

  1. Looking for advice from our more experienced crew. We have a 4 plate bubbler column with a copper onion & dephlegmator. When running I believe we are getting our mash to hot in the boiler. 1. What should be the onion temperature above the boiler? Does it even matter? - Why do we ask a dumb question... We are running hot maybe 200'ish in the onion. 2. What happens if your boiling hot and using you depphelgmator to control the vapor temp before the condenser? 3. The vapor temp above the dephlegmator is controlled by our water flow in the dephlegmator. Essentially everything is getting knocked down from the Dephlegmator. Is this correct? Any advice is much appreciated! As the vapor travels up it follows onion, 4 plate bubbler column, dephlegmator, condenser.
  2. First time post on here, be gentle if I'm being a Dingus. So I'm not new to distilling but I've always used a pot still and fire heat. I recently built a electrically heated reflux still and I'm having problem. I'll list out the details of my set up then my issues and process. - 15gal Keg Pot -single 5Kw heating element. 230v - 2" reflux column roughly 4ft tall. - feed and return lines for condenser feed horizontally through the main column to produce the reflux cooling - cooling water comes in from the bottom and out the top - no packing (yet) - analog Temp gauge in the boiler - Calibrated RTD at the very top of the column. - Running 10-12gal of 8-9% sugar wash. So the problem is that I cannot get any decent proof out of the dang thing. I mean 100proof or less! I see guys on here complaining when they can't get more than 180, so I should by no means be getting the junk output i'm getting. After I get my forshots to run off, I cannot get any output worth a damn until the top of my column hits almost 205F!!! I had it sitting at 170-180F for over an hour and couldn't get more than a few drips. tried 190s barely anything, only after it's over 200 will I start to get steady drip, drip drips. At this point my analog gauge in the boiler is reading 200-210ish. I would have thought that my RTD was out of wack. but the fact that my proof is coming out at 60-100 proof tells me that it's reading correct and that I'm just pulling a ton of water with my ethanol because my temp is too high. As I mentioned above I'm testing this out with about 10-12gallons of a 8-9% sugar wash that I tested with a hydrometer (I'm not guessing) I would expect to pull at least a gallon of higher proof stuff out. Hell i'm honestly happy with 130-150, let alone what I read these other guys pull out of their reflux stills. I've done 3 runs now and each time I give up after pulling off a quart because after a quart of 70-100proof it drops way down to the floor at like 30 proof :( I've played around with turning my power and water ratios up and down all other the spectrum and I can't get any better results. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. i'm pulling my hair out.
  3. Hey, It is widely accepted that distillate should be collected straight off the condenser at 15-20°C (60-70°F). My problem is that the water coming out my tap are usually around 30°C (85°F), so there is no way I can bring the distillate down to the desired temperature. What is the best (and least expensive) method of bringing the water temperature down before it reaches the condenser? My setup includes two alembic stills: 250L and 1,000L. Thanks!
  4. Hi, My first post here, so if it is in the wrong forum, moderator please feel free to move it to correct forum. I was wondering if folks here use jackets (like used in breweries) to control their fermenters' temperature. We are looking to set up a distillery to make single malt whisky and one of the options I am looking at is square stainless steel totes as fermenters. These come with a dimpled jacket on one side, and I am wondering if that'd be enough. This will be located in Northern California, and the summer can get quite warm. Cheers, Virag
  5. I would think variables like entering coolant temperature, flow and the exiting temperature of the product all would have some effect. Engineers designing chemical condensers are usually very particular about all of the above.
  6. I am fairly new to the distilling industry although I have been well versed in the consumption end for many years. I have been distilling for about a year and a half and one thing I have not seen much information on is pot temperature. I would like to get some views on how quickly you bring your wash up to temperature, what temperature, and what you hold it at or let it slowly increase as product plays out. I know the still has a lot to do with this and whether you are using a jacketed pot with steam or oil v/s electric or gas heat. I thought a thread on this would be useful to explore what people are doing. Thanks in advance for your insights.
  7. Alright Guys I'm looking for some answers and thought there's no better place than to post them on the ADI forum! -I have been distilling for awhile and have made some good apple brandy using our 4 plate vendome column. I typically utilize 1-2 plates since I like a richer flavor and four plates is way to much, it seems to strip much of the flavors out of the finished product but thats just my opinion. I started to pay more attention to our cooling head water outlet temperature and I noticed it tends to be anywhere between 140 degrees f to 160 degrees f and I get good runs out of those temperatures. Also this is for brandy runs not for vodka distillations so I want maximum flavor using the column. My questions are: -What temperature do others run the dephlegmator water at (the out water not the in water) -should I be paying this much attention to it at all and why or why not? -What is the purposes of the dephlegmator? (i.e. to fill the plates, to knock as much water/oils back) -what is the most important temperature reading when using a column (i.e. after the cooling head, the cooling head water temp, or anything else) I'm sure I will get some great answers so thank you very much for posting below! -J
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