Distilling: Art or Craft

[Ralph at Tuthilltown]

The question comes up often during a tasting or presentation, “Are you the Master Distiller?” The answer is the same every time, “None of us are Masters. We’re all Journeymen, still trying to get it perfect”, though we all know it never can be (perfect). The two words “Craft” and “Art” are used in discussions and descriptions of the work of making whiskey and other fine spirits. Is it appropriate, is it an overstatement, egotistic, or simple hype?

I find myself often wondering if the Craft to which my partner and the distillery staff at Tuthilltown apply our efforts daily has the potential to become Art, how to do it, if it matters.

The two words are used interchangeably by the media and by some distillers. But is spirits production Art or Craft, what is the distinction, why does it matter? How does the Artist or Craftsman have authority to take on any title other than “Maker” or “Worker”? Even “Professional”, according to various dictionaries implies a “license” or official certification of some sort.

Is an honorarium self-awarded, or is it earned and bestowed? Do we have the right to call ourselves “Master” or “Artist”, or is it such as a university degree, a formal recognition determined by qualified others based on an accepted arc of education and experience?

It may seem at first to be a purely philosophical and semantic debate. The perception of “art” versus “craft” and who is entitled to use the title “Master” is important. As the Micro Distillery movement gains ground and credibility these things will matter. How can we or the public know the qualifications of the owner of a startup distillery with one product, a year or two experience and no formal training who claims to be a "Master Distiller" on his business card.

Who will risk an opinion? Make no mistake, it has all the potential for serious debate; indeed it has been for many many decades among the lowest and highest levels of the Arts community. For me the question first arose during a meeting of the Board of Directors of the American Alpine Club when I sat on that Board. During discussion on climber access in wilderness areas one climber expressed his belief, “I consider my climbing to be Art, a form of self expression. It’s protected by the Constitution.” That comment set me off on a personal two year intellectual journey in an attempt to understand the difference between Art and Craft. And now the same question appears and the same debate presents itself to the American Distiller. Is Distilling Fine Spirits “Craft” or “Art”; and why?

Ralph Erenzo

Tuthilltown Spirits

[Charles@AEppelTreow]

I'm an Artist when I sit down with raw materials, experience their qualities, and am inspired to treat them in a certain fashion and in certain combinations. (For me, that can go back to cultivar selections and growing practices.)

I'm a Craftsman when I go into the 'shop' to execute that inspired plan - converting ingredients into a packaged beverage that a consumer can pick up and enjoy (and thus share the idea the artist had).

I'm a Master in the practical sense that I'm the shop boss - and in charge. And that accountibility falls to me (unless I've delegated it - but I do the delegating.)

I'm a Student whenever I realize how little I know. Daily.

I think distilling can be craft or art, depending on which aspect you're participating in. Either way, I think it's something you practice - like medicine, law and architechure.

[upinthehills]

Maybe it should be engineering?

[Phil]

Interesting discussion topic... what are we? Artists? Craftsmen (or Craftswomen)? When I hear the term artist thrown about, it seems all I hear in my head is Simon Cowell asking a contestant on Idol "are you a singer or an artist?" The question is are we by running the process of distillation artists by default? Or do we need to reach a new level that enables our peers and the public to recognize a particular distiller as an "artist". I'd like to think there's a level of respect that is attained by being recognized as an artist that is more that just calling yourself an "artist".

The Master Distiller moniker is a tough one. It seems to me that the big guys throw that term around a lot and I'm not really sure what it means. The only master distiller I've ever met was a combination of plant engineer and brand ambassador. The tasting panel really determines what flavor comes out of the bottle. Am I a master distiller because I'm a combination of plant engineer, brand ambassador and tasting panel? I'm responsible for everything that happens in order to take the grain and put in in a bottle. So, maybe so, but I'm not going to put that on my business card. What would that accomplish? Engineers have struggled with a similar issue for quite some time. Technically you can't call yourself an engineer unless you have your Professional Engineers license. The only way to get that license is to pass the EIT exam, work under a PE for 5 years, and then take the PE exam. Do we need a master distiller accreditation program? Maybe... maybe not. Your thoughts?

[Ralph at Tuthilltown]

Eventually, and it will be a measure of the credibility of the future ADI, this will need to be addressed by the distillers (those holding DSP licenses) to decide how to qualify people recognized by the ADI and its membership as:

DISTILLERYMEN

DISTILLERS

MASTER DISTILLER

But the question of the titles: ARTIST or CRAFTSMAN are another more contested matter. One constant in my own investigation on what is the difference between Art and Craft, agreed by many of artists, climbers, philosophers and wordsmiths is something along the lines: Craft becomes Art when the aesthetic qualities of the work and product surpass the utilitarian value of the thing. That's a bit broad. For me there must be a few other elements to the Art. It must be as Charles points out a deliberate act of communication, there must be a message; it must be a new interpretation; it must have some meaning which is transferable to another person or at the least carry some value that can be inferred from the work beyond its use; and there must be a final product.

A Craftsman (using the generic, without gender bias here) is not necessarily an Artist. But an Artist, it seems to me, must be a Craftsman. He/she must know about their materials, how to get them to produce a desired result which serves a purpose. The Artist goes beyond the use when his work also communicates a message, or sparks an emotional response from the user or viewer, or in the case of spirits, the taste, aroma, color and execution.

Beyond that there is the question of the dedication to the "Artist's life", which may be a separate discussion altogether.

As for the proposal of upinthehills (above), an Engineer is a licensed Professional with credentials. There's a heap of difference between the Engineer and the Engineer/Artist. Where the Engineer works with science and facts and math to respond to a problem, the Artists' vision is more likely to be the problem the Engineer is attempting to work out. Science provides a framework which the Artists then stretch and bend to make their minds known. The laws of physics in our world and the known universe are what the Engineer has to work with. The Artist has no such limitation to imagine, to conceive. I believe it is possible to turn all things to their Artistic potential, but it takes vision before the work begins and technical skill to execute satisfactorily. It is not incorrect to call a Distillery worker an Engineer if he is indeed an Engineer; though he may not be an Artist or a Master Distiller.

But the point of posing the question in the first place is to get you to look more closely at the nature of what we do and call it what it is, not what you dream you'd like to be, not what you put on your business card, but a real statement of what you feel is the character and nature of what any particular distiller is doing in his shop.

[Charles@AEppelTreow]

Two bits - I'm interested in Associating with distillers. While there may be value in forming a guild or union that credentials its members - it's not something _I'm_ currently interested in.

And I don't think the Artist and Craftman have to be the same person - or that Art needs Craft as a foundation. It may help - but a jewelery designer can make a beautiful piece (once) with just enough skills and luck. But they don't have to have the Craft needed to put out sets of fine silverware.

On the other hand, a distiller_y_ (rather than distiller) probably needs both.

[Denver Distiller]

Eventually, and it will be a measure of the credibility of the future ADI, this will need to be addressed by the distillers (those holding DSP licenses) to decide how to qualify people recognized by the ADI and its membership as:

DISTILLERYMEN

DISTILLERS

MASTER DISTILLER

I suppose this can be helpful for distillers who aren't owner-distillers. In other words, if they're out looking for a job. Brewers dealt with this for a while, and I think that for the most part, the brewers I know abandoned titles. I'd think that the diplomas and passed exams that would lead to a title would be more helpful for those looking for work, but that's just me. The problem with titles is that for the most part, our shops are too small for anyone to actually give us a title, so, really, you can only look to exams or diplomas coupled with experience for bona fides.

Ralph, the closest thing that I'm aware of in terms of examinations and so forth in Englsh are the IBD exams. They have a Diploma in Distilling Exam, but it's really focused on whisky production from what I've been told. You can take the exams at any British Consulate.

IBD Exams

[Jester]

Hey all,

IMHO...the word Master should be used very sparingly and not be a self given name. It should come from experience, wisdom, and respect. I like the thoughts shared. I am a craftsman in that I work with my hands to create hardware of many different types and styles, usisng many different materials. I also consider myself a bit of an artist. My creations are as much art as functional. its pride that comes through in an artists/craftsmans work. the same as every Craft/Artisans distilled spirits. its personal. There is a great deal of respect from one Artisan/craftsman to another. No one should self proclaim Mastery, I dont and wont. I cant, I have learned that if I think myself a master...I get reminded by my own actions how very wrong I can be.

No disrespect to all who feel that they are masters. Ivan the Terrible probably didnt think he was.

[coop]

My two cents worth. You can call me anything you want to as long as you purchase my products which we all know is responsible for keeping us in business. Coop

[Ralph at Tuthilltown]

Every one of the DSP owners want the same thing.

The question is not what we should call ourselves or others; ego will be the determining factor in what a person chooses to call him or herself (not necessarily what others might call them).

The topic proposed is the "nature of our work". It is perhaps more philosophical discussion than some care to engage. But I feel there is some importance to it. In the Art community there is always a tension, for instance, between the "Illustrator" and the "Fine Artist". The Illustrator is a Craftsman using artistic talent to meet the needs of a client; the Fine Artist has no such restriction, the expression from their artwork is the goal. But each is presumably paid for their work. DaVinci, Calder, Peter Max, Beethoven, Mozart; every one of them worked for a living and got paid for it, so payment is not a good gauge. The Fine Artist cringes at being labeled an Illustrator; it would seem that there is more "status" attached to the title Artist which is ubiquitous in the Art world. One only has to look at high quality professional Illustration, then look at what passes for "art" in many galleries to come to a conclusion which of the two is higher quality, more technically proficient, which is more meaningful.

How does this apply to the Distiller? How do we raise "Work" to "Craft"? How do we elevate (if it is an elevation at all and not just a lateral step) "Craft" to the level of "Art", and do we need to, does it matter? Not only how do you see yourself: Boss, Worker, Journeyman, Master, Craftsman, Artist; but also why? Why does it matter if one is a Craftsman or an Artist? How does that relate to our work. The media refers to the "Art of Distilling", those in the industry use the phrase with impunity. As a general statement I cannot say if it is (to borrow the TTB phrase) "A truthful statement".

My belief is that it takes more than a mere declaration, or a media friendly phrase, or experience, or even "intent" to be either a Craftsman or an Artist. So this was not meant to be a literal discussion so much as an exploration.

[Phil]

I think this leads to the question - Why did each DSP owner start their distillery? Was it in the quest of a more satisfying libation or was it merely a monetary decision? Was it in an effort to be creative, to build, to make our presence known to the world? Did Beethoven seek fame or was it thrust upon him? Or did Beethoven seek to create and through the act of creating something from nothing do something that we could all aspire to? But even Beethoven was accused of plagiarism is his day.

As I meet with folks and tell them I started a distillery they often look at me with curiosity and ask "why"? Sometimes I answer smartly, other times I answer more sincerely. Even today people ask - "what made you think you could start a distillery?" So I ask - what made you think you could start a distillery?

[Ralph at Tuthilltown]

I just returned from an hour long round trip to a "local" retailer to deliver some whiskey and your question was in my head the entire trip. Intent, deliberate action seems really key. I'm not sure I agree on the question "what made you think you could start a distillery". But the drive to "do", that's at the center of it.

Craftsmen "do" to make a living, produce quality goods in a particular style, mostly by close personal labor. An Artist is compelled to "do" whether or not it makes him/her money. A writer MUST write. A composer can't help the music coming. Of course there are those who are compelled to the point of "obsession", which may or may not be the tipping point; there have been and continue to be some crazy artists turning out seminal work, but try to have a reasonable conversation with one..... They perhaps are more in the class of "genius" in the classical sense of it, "touched by god" for better or worse.

Perhaps for Distilling to be considered an artistic endeavor it must involve the whole cycle from the idea in someone's head to the spirits in the glass, and more than just making whiskey, but also having purpose in the whole effort, not only the end product. In my case, my partner and I both wanted to "do something useful". It wasn't necessarily spirits. But distilling presented itself as an option and we looked around at the raw materials at hand, conceived of the interaction with farmers and the marketplace and each other (though that was less considered at first, which was probably a good thing looking back); and decided we would take the whole concept and make it happen by our own efforts, to prove the point it can be done. That is not to say there were no financial considerations, first and foremost it had to pay the bills (sometime in the foreseeable future), it had to work as a business too. But the overall concept has considerable purpose.

Brian Ellison of DEATH'S DOOR is compelled to affect the future of an obscure island, a former agriculturally successful island that fell on hard times when moving grain from there to the mainland became too costly for the commodity brokers. He invented his brand, nursed it through the process, worked with the farmers and now has not only a successful brand but the island is back in production growing organic grains for spirits. It is a business, and it is a statement, and both borne of an idea. The final product in this case has an important message behind it. And maybe Brian had no artistic intent behind his work, we have not discussed this aspect of it. But it carries much of the characteristics of Art. Perhaps even orchestral, all the players organized to one final end performance, in someone's glass. There are many others who are compelled to invent, to create, have a vision and absolutely MUST do it. Doesn't matter much if it's waffles or whiskey, or does it?

[daveflintstone]

I make liquor. It tastes good. I prefer the title of Mr. Liquor Maker, along the lines of Mr. President.

[evil genius]

Hey Ralph! Thanks for getting this thread going. I feel that it's such a mutable question, craft vs art. Since art is defined as the process or product of deliberately arranging elements in a way to affect the senses or emotions, there'll be times when even the distiller who considers it a craft becomes an artist as one of their customers has an emotional reaction to the distillers' product. I love it when distillers consider themselves artists and create products that fire the emotions. As craftspeople who create intense aromatic portraits, we've got a direct pathway to the limbic system of our customers. We have the ability to manipulate emotions through the arrangement of olfactory elements, be it in the form of a whiskey, gin or eau de vie. Sounds like serious potential for art, and whether it is or not depends largely on intent. While I do feel, like your rock climbing friend, that it's a form of self-expression, the Constitution's got nothing to do with it.

On the issue of master distiller, I'd love to see a governing body with a group of widely acknowledged professionals and academics be the one to confer such a title. I can't tell you how much it chaps my hide to see some jackass who bought himself a still proclaim that after twenty still runs he's a master distiller. After twenty still runs I was just getting into my second cup of coffee, and that was 14 years ago. A lot of cooling water under the bridge, and I'm still not a master distiller.

I saw some postings in this thread a few back suggesting that ADI become the sort of group to certify master distillers. I think that the ADI performs a valid and valuable function in coordinating small distillers across the country, but has no credibility in certifying anyone as master.