indyspirits

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indyspirits last won the day on January 11

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About indyspirits

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  1. I neglected to mention we do have a large AC filter but, as discussed, don't use it for chloramine removal. It's OK in terms of flow rate, but as we've bough larger equipment (600 liter to 2500 liter) we need to research another solution. Im at risk of hijacking the thread so think I'll start another topic!
  2. Exactly. But it's much more expensive that standard AC. We use the recommended 35mg of potassium metabisulfite / gallon of water. No flow rate restrictions, no filter medium PM needed, etc. Filling a 2500 liter mash cooker at 7 gpm would be painful.
  3. Really good article on brewing water. We've worked with this guy in the past. https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/water-knowledge
  4. Suboptimal for chloramine removal.
  5. You dont need to pay a premium for fermaid-k, just make your own from (basically) deactivated yeast, vitamin b complex, DAP, and a bit of mag sulphate.
  6. Technically you could age it in an charred oak jewelry box. There are plenty of threads around about folks that have tried aging with (not necessarily in) different woods. I believe Donald Snyder of Whiskey Systems conducted some oak experiments during his days at Buffalo Trace. Google is your friend here regarding why white oak is used.
  7. Here in Indiana we pay about 15 cents a lb for #2 dent -- about 1/15th the price of flaked. Of course you don't have to conduct a cereal mash on flaked nor do you have to use enzymes. I made one batch in my "learning days" and don't think poor quality had anything to do with the flaked maize but rather my unskilled cuts.
  8. Regarding fermaid-K... Google is your friend
  9. FWIW: I have never, ever used nutrients in any grain mash. I've found, more than anything, correct pitch rate and ferm temps affect attenuation. And I have tried much (most?) of the fancy yeast-chow starter goo on the marker. With proper temp and pitch rate I go from 1070 to dry in 3 to 4 days.
  10. Exactly what he said!
  11. For us, the two biggest challenges have been: Scaling up recipes Botanical consistency We started our recipe development on a small 2L glass lab still which was just too small. Even weighing botanicals to the picogram (OK not really) by the time we scaled up (100 liters) the organoleptic properties bore only a passing resemblance to that which we started. We found vapor infused to be infinitely more difficult to scale up that macerated. I don't know what to do about the consistency issues. Resellers don't know or at least won't tell which producers provided their bots. At one point we started buying in larger quantities but then the bontanicals (most noticeable in the juniper) started to dry out before we used them all.
  12. Oh shit. I totally missed the part about the matched mash cooker. You're sized just fine. We run our at 10 PSI w/ our pressurtrol set to +/- 2 degrees
  13. The first question is, "Why??". You're going to be WAY over capacity which will cause no end of short-cycling problems -- this wont harm the boiler, it's just inefficient as hell. Also, it's unlikely (and way about my maths skills) that your jacket is designed to "pass through" 1M BTU/hr of heat so there's that. Do you a mash cooker or hot liquor tank you're heating? Generally speaking, 1KBTU/hr will get you about a 1-hour heat up time. Talk do your boiler people and ask them. We have a 600 liter still and our boiler is about 270K BTU on the output side. Heat up in about 50 minutes.
  14. I've found soaking in TSP usually gets off even the most stubborn labels.
  15. E150 coloring. Works for the scots. You can make your own.