glisade

We get almost identical numbers to Lenny and sounds like we have a similar setup and process: tight cuts, double distillation on pot still, and non-optimal conversion on a 100% corn whiskey..with heirloom corn.

It's taken us a month or a bit longer to get a response even when submitting online.

sold

Still available, Willing to negotiate

Yes, at least in my case there is minimum communication at this point. They leave it up to you to make sure you pay your taxes on time and everything else. They will post your permit info into your Permits Online account for you to download if you want. You have to register for a Pay.gov account and they'll send you information for that.

$11,500 or best offer

Thermaline Plate Heat Exchanger for sale

$1,800 OBO, willing to ship if you set up shipper.

Located in Knoxville, TN

Only used a few times then converted to on-grain process.

Designed to cool 300 gallons of wort in 60 minutes.

1-section model-T4 plate heat exchanger to include the following :
- A total of 51 CH-style 316SS plates.
- Standard (S) style carbon steel heads.
- 2x 1-1/2 inch Tri-Clamp nozzles on the fixed head and 2x 1-1/2 inch Tri-Clamp nozzles on the movable head.
- 52 NBR-style gaskets.
- Mounting style: Tab-style feet

What I've been told is that when you submit a Gin formula, the TTB looks to see that Juniper is the largest by weight botanical of your formula. Since doesn't prove a predominant juniper flavor but that's their only way to get an estimate.

Ron

Still for sale

glissade, do you have any more info on the pump you are using to circulate the wort through the chiller? Thanks!

It's an All-Flo model# SE-10-X44

This will give you a very good starting point: http://homedistiller.org/flavor/gin

Make sure you have a scale with very low resolution, something like 0.01 grams

Ron

All our transfer hoses are 1" diameter and the coils are 3/4". It works. We've had clogs a few times but it was mostly operator error. We have a good air diaphragm pump to move everything. Our corn is milled and screened through a 14 mesh. We're also moving a 33 gallon beer so not as thick as some others.

I think about 14". We bought 60' long, 3/4" diameter coils from lowes and used a 5 gallon barrel as our guide to create the coils. They fit in 55 gallon drums but we use 2 100 gallon drums and 1 55 gallon drum and connect them all in series between our tun and fermenter.

Ron

We built three of these to cool our 300 gallon all corn grain-in mash from about 140F to 80F in about 1 to 1.5 hours. The mash goes through the coils and the coils sit in a drum filled with cold city water. Each coil costs about $250 for the copper coil plus hardware.

Solid still, makes great whiskey, all copper..tours love it. Typically a one year waiting list for this still..available today. Make an offer.

OR BEST OFFER....

No 3/4", 60 foot long internal coil. We used 50/50 glycol water fluid heater but would work for steam. But we do have fire grate as well if someone wanted to use it that way.

Double Diamond 220 gallon all copper still for sale. Same exact still here: http://www.coppermoonshinestills.com/id51.html

Link to a video of our still in operation. https://www.facebook.com/knoxwhiskeyworks/videos/1054489924595985/

Only used about 2 months, maybe 40 washes before we upgraded to our 300 gallon still. Internal coil is 3/4"-60 foot length and gave us a heat up time of about an hour. Easy to take neck off and clean out.

The waiting list on this still is about one year. Asking $12,000

Located in Knoxville, TN.

Old school and cheap...if you have the containers to put them in. We run our 300 gallon mash through three of these 3/4" 60 foot coils. They sit in stainless drums with cold city water and takes about 1.5 hours to cool from 140F to 80F. Each coil costs about $250 to make with all fittings. We run it with an air diaphragm pump. Grain-in with roughly 2:1 corn to water ratio.

Holy cow. 120kW, that's gotta draw around 400 amps? I'm doing it with 27kW and I pull 91.

(stainless still filled to around 130 gallon, oil jacketed, agitator and heatup time is 2 hours flat)

Unfortunately, we only had 208V 3 phase in the building so it draws about 333 amps. But that's only the heat up time, once it gets there then the duty cycle is in the mid teens. We also have no agitator.

What kettle size are you using? Heat up time?

It was designed to get 300 gallons to a boil in about an hour. We had issues with our 300 gallon stainless still and switched to a 200 gallon copper still for now and it heats it to a boil in about an hour. We believe we will get similar results with the 300 gallon once we install our new copper coil instead of using our original stainless jacket. The stainless jacket was significantly undersized and did not transfer the heat as well as we thought it would.

50/50 mix of water and antifreeze (propylene glycol) will not boil till 265-268f at 15 psi. It would be the same as your car. So increase that ratio for added temp.

My boiler guy says he can get it up to 350-400f with out boiling, but I would have to think that it is something that has no water in it at that point.

We went with a water/glycol heater from http://www.heat-inc.com/tempered.html.

It's a 120kW electric unit that goes to 225F with a 50/50 glycol water mix. Works well for us. One big reason we did this is to avoid boiler regulations: pressurized vessel, boiler room, boiler inspections, etc.. The fluid heater is a big immersion element and a pump that sits on a skid. Easy to hook up and use.

I don't have much info on it but search for saponification especially in regard to proofing brandy. This is what they are trying to avoid by employing a long proofing time.

I always interpreted whiskey to be as Roger stated, i.e. can not come off the still at higher than 160 proof, not the average proof, but I just found this, bold is mine:

“Bourbon whisky”, “rye whisky”, “wheat whisky”, “malt whisky”, or “rye malt whisky” is whisky produced at not exceeding 160° proof from a fermented mash of not less than 51 percent corn, rye, wheat, malted barley, or malted rye grain, respectively, and stored at not more than 125° proof in charred new oak containers; and also includes mixtures of such whiskies of the same type.

WHERE "Produced at" is defined as. "As used in 5.22 and 5.52 in conjunction with specific degrees of proof to describe the standards of identity, means the composite proof of the spirits after completion of distillation and before reduction in proof."

So it sounds as if it is average proof of distillate not exceeding 160 proof.

Same with TN. First Federal Permit then State, can't do them in parallel.

So for us it was: apply for DSP and buildout/building permit in parallel then apply for state permit when both are complete.

-Ron