Bonding and Grounding Equipment

[Pistol Pete]

Hey guys-

Quick question: How did you ground your pumps/equipment? Also, did any of you bond it too?

Thanks.

[Paul G]

Quick question: How did you ground your pumps/equipment? Also, did any of you bond it too?

In the junction box that is attached to the pump there should already be a grounding screw where your ground wire will attach. By code, you'll have to bring a separate ground wire with your power wires (i.e. if your pump is single phase, hot, neutral and ground, or if 3 phase, the 3 hots and a ground) and it has to be grounded at the panel where the power comes from, and nowhere else. If you're using metallic conduit (rigid, IMC, EMT, etc.) then you can use a bonding ring where it transitions into the panel.

The ground screw in the motor junction box may or may not be green, but it will be a separate screw (sometimes just an empty, tapped hole) where the ground wire connects. It should be conspicuous as a screw that's actually enclosed within the box and isn't one of the screws that seals the box cover.

One more thing, the ground wire must be the same gauge as the power wires. Also, if you're using stranded wire, it's best to use a crimp connector (either fork or ring) to attach the ground wire to the grounding screw.

[Pistol Pete]

In the junction box that is attached to the pump there should already be a grounding screw where your ground wire will attach. By code, you'll have to bring a separate ground wire with your power wires (i.e. if your pump is single phase, hot, neutral and ground, or if 3 phase, the 3 hots and a ground) and it has to be grounded at the panel where the power comes from, and nowhere else. If you're using metallic conduit (rigid, IMC, EMT, etc.) then you can use a bonding ring where it transitions into the panel.

The ground screw in the motor junction box may or may not be green, but it will be a separate screw (sometimes just an empty, tapped hole) where the ground wire connects. It should be conspicuous as a screw that's actually enclosed within the box and isn't one of the screws that seals the box cover.

One more thing, the ground wire must be the same gauge as the power wires. Also, if you're using stranded wire, it's best to use a crimp connector (either fork or ring) to attach the ground wire to the grounding screw.

Thanks Paul, I'm not sure if what you are suggesting would work in my situation or not. The pump I ordered is the same one mentioned by Scott from Twenty2Vodka in another thread:

High-flow Plastic Air-powered Diaphragm Pump, Acetal, Santoprene Diaphragm, 4 Gpm. Available at Mcmaster Carr item # 13465K29

I talked to the guys at Mcmaster Carr and they said it needed to be grounded for static electricity, even though it's plastic (which I don't understand). They weren't able to tell me how to ground it, and instead said that I should consult OSHA guidelines :/

I'm hoping once I get my hands on it, I'll be able to figure out, but was hoping someone might have a better idea. This stuff is obviously not my strong point

Thanks again for any insight...

[Absinthe Pete]

Don't take my word as the end all be all, get a second opinion, but in my wood shop I had to ground for static electricity the plastic hose for the dust collection system. All that was required was wrapping bare copper wire around it for a foot or two and attach that to a metal object.

[Paul G]

High-flow Plastic Air-powered Diaphragm Pump, Acetal, Santoprene Diaphragm, 4 Gpm. Available at Mcmaster Carr item # 13465K29

By some strange coincidence, I have the same one, but with the nylon housing.

Anyway, with regards to grounding the plastic pump, this should clarify things in principle:

http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfpubs/pdf95512323.pdf

If it were me, I'd probably find a more permanent attachment of the ground wire than just spring/alligator clips (like an appropriately sized u-bolt), but that document should get you going.