Jump to content

Stripping still ?


John D

Recommended Posts

I am building my pot still all copper so I can run different heads. I was kinda stumped If i should build a stripper. I was think I would like to build one like a torpedo shape kinda like the 250 gal propane tank shape. I was thinking I would have a lot more surface area for the flame / heat to be taken in. I will be using natural gas direct flame. Would this cut down one the run times or has anyone tried or using something thing like this for stripping. To me it makes scene larger surface for heat less chance of scorching with increase of out put.

I plan on stripping and then running pot still. Just thinking I could improve on the time line by not cranking up the flame and burning the grain. I have come up with a lot of sound good ideas over the years but not really good when put into use.

Thanks for any advise, flame if needed and LOL if just way off.

John

Come on someone has done this or heard of someone. They where very common back in the day so why are they not now?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most people, myself included, use their pot still as the stripping still and spirit still. When I've collected enough strippings for a spirit run, I do it in the same still. But, by all means build a stripping still if you can afford it. A large stripping still will need to be agitated to speed heat-up time and stop grain from scorching, so you'll have to solve that issue.

If you're just starting out, it might be wiser and safer to buy a completed strip/spirit still that's built by a professional.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@ bradocater, I'm about to find out. We're stepping up from a 26 gallon test still to a 100 gallon main and a 55 gallon thumper. To save $$ we'll be putting a tangential inlet on the side of the 100 main so it functions much like a wort kettle. Agitators are pretty spendy and I already have a pump, so a $13 long 1.5" tangential ferrule welded on in the middle of the tank should do the trick. Once done, I'll post some tests of heat up times using it and not. Never seen a still with a tangential inlet for whirlpooling with a pump, should be interesting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really should ask what I was looking for in a different way.

Let say i had a upright tank the was 28" dia and 70" tall and both end are flat and welded. I would have to rework one end to add column, and add clean out. No jacket for heat just NG burners and fire brick casing.

What if I was to lay it on its side add column to the middle of the tank and clean on one end, put 4' long burner and fire brick the sides. Would the increase in heated surface area increase the finishing time. I am no chemist or engineer so hopefully someone here can help.

Please don't add any variables to the questions. Not trying to be rude just looking what direction to start working on then I can look at adding in the other factors. I can build and am build out my stills. I have one 5 gal and one 50 gal and would like to turn this tank into a stripper but looking for the most cost effective R/T increased production time with my heat source. All the above is for my DSP, not my first pot still build but is for a dedicated stripper.

Thanks again and really not trying to be rude.

John

Working on name I like Backdoor Distillery. I own a building the was built in the 1890's It has a 3" solid wood backdoor with a 1" by 12" slot with a steel pate slider. I was told it was a speak easy during Prohibition. Still some old timers that remember.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Funny, after the backdoor naming suggestion I was wondering how long it would take Mr. Flintstone to chime in. Right on cue. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have many. Some for tee shirts and some for shorts. should be a fun gift shop :D:ph34r:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

With the added surface area of having your pot still on its side your column should be matched to handle the vapor rate.

I believe with a 3 inch column is far too small. Also your condensers will have to keep up. You will need lots of surface area.

If you want email me your general plans of what you have and I will look at it for you and give you some great suggestions.

Joseph

Master Distiller

515-559-4979

joseph@dehnerdistillery.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...