Roger Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 How do still manufacturers place electric elements in the boiler ? Are they inside a tube of some sort filled with a liquid, or are they literally just screwed into the boiler, with the element touching the wash ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebstauffer Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 There are two flavors -- either direct immersion (an impossibility for grain-in distilling) or bain marie. Generally you'll get a 2" triclamp ferrule tigged to either the pot or the jacket and then some flavor of element guard. I dont think you can beat the StillDragon kit: http://stilldragon.com/index.php/accessories/element-connections/element-guard-kit.html Nice heavy NPS threaded TC endcap for the element, other endcap with hole for cordgrip and a tiny slot that lets you know if you have any leaks. Only complaint I could come up with is that it's a wee bit bulky. It's what we use for our 30 gallon recipe development bain marie still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dehner Distillery Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 1. Direct immersion is elements right in the wash. ( you can not do grain in runs!) 2. oil bath is elements in a volume of oil, the oil heats up and heat the mash. The oil is located in a jacketed tank. (just like running steam, you can do grain in runs) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roberto Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Try The Electric Brewery. They have a stainless steel ultra low watt density heating element. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Posted May 27, 2015 Author Share Posted May 27, 2015 Thanks guys ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skaalvenn Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 With regards to oil bath the only downsides I can tell after a couple weeks of production are: It takes a little bit more finessing than direct electric elements. Our oil gets up over 300 degrees during stripping runs and therefore holds a tremendous amount of heat energy in it--which takes a while to transfer to the wash. One must predict what the still will be doing a few minutes in advance and account for that. For instance: At the beginning of a run the power is on full, but once the head temp starts rising I have to immediately back the power way back otherwise I'll quickly overshoot the stabilization temp. Agitation is also a must otherwise the liquid near the walls will be much hotter than the bottom and center. Granted, once a rolling boil occurs the heat is very even throughout, but for anything other than stripping runs this does not work as heads/hearts/tails are all smeared. Skål Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dehner Distillery Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Agitation is very important with both steam and oil stills. With any still there is always a learning curve. Oil can heat up way hotter than steam (up to 600f, normal 350-500f) or what ever your oil is rated for. There is also a coast period with oil. Steam is more of an Instant off sorta of. All are good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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