Jimmidaboot
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Everything posted by Jimmidaboot
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Can anyone tell me the best rubber to use in a still? I need to cut gaskets for the flanges and I want to get the right material to stand up to alcohol and elevated temps.
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Got some good work done on the thumper today. Barrel is 32oz or 19g, top is hand formed with a lip that captures the barrel. Flange is stainless with copper attached. It will be riveted to the top cone or cape once the tubing is inserted through the side. Still have to make the bottom and roll some beads into the sides of the barrel for rigidity. Moving right along!
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Hmmm....forethought and THEN fore shots. Yes?
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LOL!! Yes, I had a large addition built on my shop with big barn doors so I can get it out without a chainsaw!!
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Glacier Tanks in Portland Oregon, Brian. Great prices and real fast delivery. They are made in China, but the quality seems to be good, in my opinion.
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Hey Mike, I'm building a 700 liter alembic with thumper and condenser. Lot's of work, but it sure is coming out nice! It will be for a distillery on the east coast.
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Thanks Brian. Aaron is practicing that too. So far it's not really necessary, though.
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Been working hard on this thing, and I'm very happy with it. Here are some shots of the boiler top and still head coming together as one. Manway is on there now. Welding is ensuing. The boiler body is on next. Will update as we get into that part! If any of you out there are interested in a still made by hand for a reasonable price, please contact me! I'm really enjoying this project and would love to get another one in the line up.
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Great news!! Now get to work!! LOL!
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A little Video of what we do
Jimmidaboot replied to Artisan Still Design's topic in Welcome & Introduce Yourself
Yes! Cool. As. Hell. -
Here are the stats: 700 ltr (185 gallon) Portuguese style alembic still, direct fire method, 30 gallon doubler with water bath head, 40 gallon condenser barrel, all copper construction.
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OK, makes sense. So, if I upgraded to the 16g boiler sides and double the thickness on the bottom, does it stand to reason that this still will last quite a long time? As of right now, I believe it will only be run on the weekends. I believe if the distillery becomes more of a production facility, it may get a lot more use, but I'm not sure how long it might be before that happens. I really want to build something that will last and be a good investment for my clients. They are very solid, good folks and I want to set them up proper.
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I'm absorbing all of this info and definitely appreciate all of it! Thanks everyone. I have a nagging question, though. What is the reason for such thick metal? Is it because copper dissolves in the mash? Is there some sort of consumption of the metal? Please inform me as I'm EXTREMELY new to this and want desperately to learn.
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Thanks Moe. I'm not using the dovetail method on the still body. It is all TIG welded. All rivets are brazed for water tightness. I'm on my smart phone now. Will check back in later.
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I build custom art stills
Jimmidaboot replied to American Made Stills LLC's topic in Welcome & Introduce Yourself
Cool stuff! -
You reckon I should plate it with a second layer then? I'm wondering why you think it won't last long. I know copper requires a temp of almost 2000 degrees Fahrenheit to melt. I would hope that anyone running a still wouldn't hit that temp, what with scorching and all. Please let me know what you think. I've looked at several copper alembic stills and none of them appeared to be made from really thick plate.
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Those are some pretty low standards ya got there, Brian!! LOL
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Hey Pete, No problem at all answering some questions. Thanks, by the way, for asking. I use a combo of methods for shaping. What the copper is sitting on is a leather shot bag. I use an oak mallet with one end rounded off to form it, along with an array of Peddinghaus hammers and a few cheap Harbor freight hammers that I grind into the shape I want. HF because if I screw it up, it was inexpensive to begin with. The top part of the still head is one piece that starts as shown below. The seam is done with silver solder, or silver brazing rod. From now on I'll be welding, though, as my apprentice has proven to be a wiz with the TIG machine. The material I've been using is 19g copper (.043"), Jed. The boiler body will also be 19 gauge, but the bottom where it will be in contact with the flame will be heavier stuff at 16g or about .065". Although it may seem thin, when the shapes are made round, they gain a huge amount of rigidity.
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OK, figured out the whole thing with the posting from URL. Pics below. The young kid is Aaron, a local welding student who is interested in my work. He has been a great help, and with the size of the pieces I'm handling now, I need all the help I can get!! The bottom two pictures are the beginning of the boiler top, where the head obviously connects. I told Aaron to "look tough"....LOL!! Kids these days!!
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I've busily been working on this still for Kymar Farm Distillery in CT. Here are some update pics. The head is nearly done. It is riveted and then tig welded. Quite a solid unit! Enjoy the pic!
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Really nice stuff!! Keep the pics coming!
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Agreed. But I am biased!
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I should clarify, this isn't MY still. I am making it for a client. I am available to discuss orders for copper stills now. Look for some editorial content in the next issue of Artisan Spirit magazine and an advertisement as well. Thanks for looking, everyone!
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I posted on here several months ago about starting to build copper stills, and by jove, I have begun! There is a bit of a learning curve compared to the copper lamps I've been building for the last 19 years, mostly because of the scale of the components, but things are going very well. I thought I'd show a pic or two of the still head coming together here for the interested. (not sure why the pics are sideways, but I need to get back to the shop so....tilt your head...LOL) This is the head for a 700 liter still, direct fire type. It will be connected to the boiler with stainless flanges, and the lyne arm will be connected to the head with stainless triclamp. This still will also have a large doubler and a large condensor. All components are hand formed, rivet and silver braze joints, and besides the stainless and maybe a few brass components, 100% copper. Obviously it isn't done yet, but I'm awful proud of the progress so far.....
