tipk99

I'm curious how the trade name works... If, when you first file your DSP, you list a trade name - can you bottle as your company name AND your trade name? So for example if my company is called "Tom's Spirits, LLC" and I list "Awesome Liqueur Company" as my trade name. Can I bottle a Vodka or Gin as "Tom's Spirits," but bottle all my liqueurs as "Awesome Liqueur Company?" And are they both "Distilled by Tom's Spirits, LLC" per the label requirtements? Does this question make any sense at all? Thanks for the help Tom

Do stills that are direct fired usually just have a super thick bottoms? Or is there something fancier than that to prevent hotspots? Thanks Tom

Thanks artisan... Are they stainless or brass?

PeteB, 7" sure seems excessive... CleaverBrooks 15 HP, 500kbtu, 15# low pressure steam boilers come with a 1.5" pressure relief valve. And I'm guessing they have a higher duty requirement than any stilll... The idea isn't to instantly depressurize your still, but to jus relieve pressure faster than its being added, correct? HedgeBird, thank you for the links, I considered the glacier valve too, but was looking for more cost effective and really like the idea of piping away from the still. Artisan, what valves do you use on your stills? Or do you have them made? Thanks everyone!

Most of those valves are 0-20 psi, and adjustable.... only one is 25-200. My still would be very low or no pressure hopefully...

Any reason one of these... http://www.grainger.com/category/vacuum-and-pressure-relief-valves/valves/pneumatics/ecatalog/N-aiv?bc=y#nav=%2Fcategory%2Fvacuum-and-pressure-relief-valves%2Fvalves%2Fpneumatics%2Fecatalog%2FN-aivZ1z0o38b%3F_%3D1386215369861 Wouldn't make a good pressure relief valve? Tom

Hi everyone, I'm on a roll with all the questions I've been asking, thanks for all the help.... Anyone ever use two sources of power for their stills - for example, direct fire for heat up to boil, and then electric for the actual run. I don't think we want to get into the realm of a boiler yet - for capital reasons... but heating up a 200 gallon still with electric alone, plus running a 100 gal spirit still takes a lotta amps... And I must admit I'm a bit afraid of high proof spirits and open flame... hence using direct fire for heatup only.... Am I crazy? Tom

Anyone have any experience with this particular filler from GW Kent? Or opinions in general about GW Kent? http://www.gwkent.com/6-spout-gravity-filling-machine.html Tom

What are the consequences of not using a strict sanitary weld? I'm not talking about a sloppy, loose weld, but a good clean, smooth weld (and passivated)... Anyone else out there care to chime in? Not that I don't value LeftTurn's opinion, but he the only one so far... Thanks Tom

Sanitary welding provides a smooth inner surface that has no nooks and crannies for things to hide in. In dairy and brewing its important because you don't want bacteria. I wad curious because in a still you are getting up to temps thatwould kill bacteria... So I was thinking a smooth weld would be good enough. Even if not to sanitary standards.

For all of you who build stills... Is sanitary welding required or recommended when building a still pot? Tom

For all of you who build stills... Is sanitary welding required or recommended when building a still pot? Tom

Ok, I know that the real answer involves math, and heat balances and all that... But is there a thumbrule for sizing a condenser that's just a coil in a tub with water recircing through the tub back to a tote? I want to cool the vapor off of a 200 gal pot still... So what diameter coil piping? How big of a vessel? What pump flowrate to circ water from the tote? Can anyone provide general guidance?

I fully realize this might be a stupid question... But is there any reason a still boiler can't be square or rectangular instead of round? If fabbing your own... Any reason not to weld four sheets together, put a bottom and top on it and attach a column... Tom

Hello, When applying for DSP, do you also submit form 5630.5D Alcohol Dealer Registration? Does that allow you to sell directly to customers (if allowed in your state?) Thanks Tom

Thanks Natrat, I take it UltraPure is a maker of NGS? Do they have a good or bad reputation? If you are into the NGS thing that is... Tom

Yes, for Vodka... For example - I want to make a 100% ferment my own, distill my own, higher end vodka... but I'm considering also making a middle of the road product too. So I could take some of my fermentation, add some NGS to increase yield and distill it once. Doing this rather than distilling my fermentation, and also running NGS through the still and making cuts, and then blending after the fact. Seems like that would be 2 distillations, where blending pre distillation would result in one - killing two birds with one stone. Just curious if anyone else has done it like this, and if my thinking is particularly faulty.

Has anyone ever added NGS to their fermented mash before distilling to boost yield? Other than for "purist" reasons, is there a reason not to do this? For example... ferment grains to yield a 8-9% ABV wash - add NGS to boost to 30% or even 40% (like an artificial stripping run) then distill to get final product. Just curious how well it did or didn't work... Thanks

Made in Seattle... http://glassdistillery.com/glassVodka.php

Thank you BW!

Any recommendations for a good insurance company for bond and liability serving Washington? Thanks

Any recommendations for a good insurance company for bond and liability serving Washington? Thanks

I thought a formula wasn't required for regular old rum... unless you are adding flavorings... and I'm pretty sure aging in used bourbon barrels is the "standard" way to age rum. Seems odd - although I have no real experience to draw on.

If I were to ferment a sugar wash to say 15% ABV, then add a neutral cane spirit to boost ABV to 40% (Like an artificial stripping run) - then run it through a still to get 190.... would my commodity statement read :"Distilled from Sugar Cane" or would it have to say "35% Neutral Cane Spirits." and then how do I indicate what the other 65% is? Another question - anyone ever contract out their stripping runs? If I had a small spirit still and a neighboring distillery had a giant still with extra capacity - and they stripped my wash... how would that be labelled? What if the neighboring distillery did the fermentation, and the stripping run - And I just bought some 180 proof spirit from them and I did the final run to 190 with heads and tails cuts... how would that be labelled - since I don't think anything distilled to less than 190 is technically a "neutral spirit." I'm trying to think about how to be time and first cost efficient, and make sure that I'm thinking about how to properly label... Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Tom

I actually think that's regulated by state... In WA there's actually some words in the RCW that say - Nothing shall prohibit "A licensed distiller, domestic brewery, microbrewery, domestic winery, or a lessee of a licensed domestic brewer, microbrewery, or domestic winery, from being licensed as a spirits, beer, and wine restaurant..." And then there are a whole bunch of rules about being a spirits, wine and beer restaurant....