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Blockader last won the day on October 24 2016

Blockader had the most liked content!

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About Blockader

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    Erastus, GA
  • Interests
    Making Spirits, Old-time Fiddling, Shooting, Farming.

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  1. Cleaning Copper Still

    If its real bad you might want to look into getting a "copper-safe" or "copper inhibited" caustic. Loeffler sells it. It is as aggressive as regular caustic but much safer for the copper. Even so, I only use it once every 6 months or so, followed by rinse, strong citric acid, and rinse again.
  2. Distillery in Malt Plant

    Gotcha, I misunderstood somewhat. Your distillation, barrel storage, and finished goods storage are always bonded area so generally would not be separated from one another securely. If you chose to house the DSP in the same building as your maltings you could separate that bonded area from non bonded malt works with something as simple as a chain link fence. This isn't really my area of expertise so hopefully someone can chime in detailing the various downsides of bonding the whole building. It may still be your best option. You will also find some discrepancy between what the TTB deems acceptable from one plant to another, which throws in a fun extra wrinkle. Good luck with your venture, it sounds pretty rad.
  3. Distillery in Malt Plant

    You shouldn't need the malting operations areas to be part of the bonded portion of the DSP. The TTB does not regulate malt production, which is why you won't find anything from them. If you are doing floor malting than you could use a separate building (or part of the main building) and not designate it as bonded area in your permit application. I believe you COULD include it in your bonded area if you really want to though. Or put up a separation and not include it.
  4. Oak Barrel Dregs Considerable

    Very large distilleries generally dump their barrels (rather than pump them I mean) and will be completely empty right after the dump. So any whiskey that you find in the bottom of one of their casks is what seeped out of the staves while it was sitting around empty. It can be pretty beasty stuff having been saturating the wood for so long. That said, that looks pretty dark, maybe its just the photo. Coffee filters, a stainless funnel, and time to kill should do it.
  5. Changing pH of wash

    It really depends on your specific circumstances I think, theres so many variables. So trying to identify a source of the issue is a good idea. For small mash adjustments with H20 that began around 7 with moderate carbonate than Phosphoric is best, citric is alright. If your water is low in calcium to start with than you can use calcium sulfate or calcium chloride (or a combination) which will reduce ph some as well as adding calcium. Nothing beats backset if you are using mostly corn, but most will agree its not super manageable on a micro scale. If your water is high in carbonate to start with and you're mashing corn than I reckon it would be worth while to figure out backset.
  6. Transfer Pump (small) 4 GPM

    Its quiet compared to most compressors, but if you have it indoors its still fairly loud. We run it maybe 4 Or 5 hours a week so it's tolerable, but if I had more pneumatic equipment and needed to run it continuously I'd put the compressor outside.
  7. Iodine Test

    That's correct. Strain out enough liquid to do a gravity reading with a hydrometer once fermentation stops. Than compare that reading, hopefully 1.00 or a little below, with what your refractometer reads, likely around 8 with a starting Brix of 20. As long as you keep the same starting gravity you will have confirmed your ending brix and can use the refractometer for future final gravity readings.
  8. Iodine Test

    If your refractometer is reading 20 brix before fermentation and 8 brix after fermentation, than that is about right for full attenuation.
  9. Transfer Pump (small) 4 GPM

    This one, very happy with it: http://www.californiaairtools.com/ultra-quiet-oil-free-air-compressors/2-0-hp-air-compressors/cat-4620ac/
  10. Ethanol Detectors ?

    Yep, we used the RKI Beacon 200 2-channel with infrared sensors. I think total cost was around $2000. We installed it as a best practice and it ended up being one of the first things that Cincinnati Insurance asked us if we had. The only time it has gone off was when a welder was using Argon in the stillroom. Justin Manglitz ASW Distillery, Atlanta GA
  11. Transfer Pump (small) 4 GPM

    Michael at TCW gets the absolute highest ratings in my book. We use the G70 that came with mounted on our Mori filler for a variety of spirit transfer tasks. Harvesting barrels, filling barrels, bottling etc. Justin Manglitz ASW Distillery, Atlanta GA
  12. Barrel filling with auto-off gas nozzle

    Michael, does the Flojet G70 allow deadheading? I assume it does, since it is an option for the Mori... Also, is there a particular water separator you recommend for the air line?
  13. Mori Bottle Filler - Questions

    I gotta say, Michael at TCW is one of the main reasons I settled on the Mori in the first place, he is fast, accurate, and detailed with responses!
  14. Mori Bottle Filler - Questions

    I will be very interested to see the replies here, as we were planning to buy one of these in the next month or so.
  15. Stainless steel bulk tank - 500 gallons

    We will take it over here in Atlanta! You can email me at justin@americanspiritwhiskey.com to arrange payment and shipping. Thanks neighbor!