Pour Decisions

21 hours ago, Corey AD said:

First of all I love your name. 

 

My water source was supposed to be filtered city water, but considering the several screw ups our GC had while building the place (Which is a whole other can of worms) I can't guarantee that it actually is. 

 

Should I add some gypsum to the water before I cook?   

Thanks! While gypsum can aid in lowering your water PH, I don't have any experience using it as my spring water is just right. I reread one of your posts and you state your PH is 5.6 - 5.9 after adding the barley and sitting for an hour. I'd say that's probably ok although closer to 5.2 typically makes for happier yeast.

Curious to see what you guys are doing as far as a portable mount for your spirits transfer pump. I think I'm looking for something like a small metal bin/tray/enclosure to mount it to, that way when I set it on a barrel or tote of high proof it will ground to them. Any other special considerations as far as grounding?

Also, I like the AA-400 alpha amylase and GA-150 gluco amylase from fermsolutions.  Their AA works at 150-190 and their GA works 110-150. What yeast strain are you using?

PH could also play a part as yours is fairly high. What is your water source?

@SouthernhighlanderI plan to convert to one of your low pressure steam units down the line a bit as its not in the financial cards quite yet. Still is 400 liters, and there is a cip port on the back near the top of the whiskey helmet I could use for a PR valve. I'll send you an email.

I've read a bunch of other threads pertaining to the proper setup of pressure relief valves and vacuum relief valves for the still, but most of what I see is related to steam heated units. Working on the install of my 400 liter baine marie still and will plan to use water in the jacket for heating. I want to ensure I have the appropriate pressure relief and vacuum relief valves in place before the unit gets fired up. My understanding is that I should have a steam rated 5psi pressure relief valve on the top of the still inner tank and I assume the vacuum relief there too as well as a secondary precaution, now should they be 1/2" or 3/4"? What about PR/VR for the outer heating jacket when heated with electric elements in water as the heat source?

Is this the suitable type suitable VR valve?

Thanks Silk

Thanks, Confirms my suspicions. Was planning on going this route based on other info I've read.

So I'm embarking on assembly of my new still. Is there a preferred orientation and position of the risers and down comers when putting together the bubble plates? Each 8" plate has 19 holes and I have 4 down comers for each. Do they get staggered in any particular fashion? Thoughts on what works for you?

Just sharing my setup since I used this thread as inspiration. I will be changing out the pan to a stainless one but haven't found the right one yet. My bottles come 6 to a carton so I made one to work with them. I ended up using a Fast Rack commonly used by the home brewing crowd as my holder,  but since my bottles are bit wider than a wine bottle I had to stagger them as pictured. I used all stainless steel 1/2" pipe fittings for the plumbing parts along with poly risers from a drip irrigation system, a stainless chugger pump with filter mounted below my work table, a simple outlet located rocker on/off switch and am using StarSan as my rinse agent.  Here's a few pics and a video of it running. 

I just remembered I have a small ozone machine I picked up a few years back when i was more into car detailing. It is gas only but maybe I'll give it a test at gassing used barrels, never thought of that!

I think you'd be ok as long as your mash keep moving. Will you add enzymes to help liquify and prevent the possibility of plugging up your lines? 

Second thought, I will not put anything in the kettle to be safe. I do have other tanks I can use for those ancillary parts to be cleaned and passivated in. Can you elaborate a bit on the ozone comment? 

I hear ya and yes we will be running different stuff. I don't mean a specific schedule per say, more so just want something in place so in the event a cleaning is needed, I have some documented process and chemical requirements with dilution quantities recorded so as to not unnecessarily add any wear to the material.

Thanks Slick. I've a few other posts where you've shared quite a bit of process info regarding cleaning etc and appreciate it. I like to keep my stuff clean and definitely will not allow any build up in there. The unit will have a CIP ball at the top of each column, the gin basket column and 4 plate column are not shown in that image but will exist. I like the thought of removing the copper cap and doing a good cip/passivation of the stainless parts. Think its ok to put the condenser and whatever small piping will fit into the kettle for a heated cip/passivation?

I plan to perform something like this as part of my ongoing processes but will remove the copper head when I do.

Copied from a post you shared some good in depth info:

Cool rinse Spray water

Cool Rinse recirculated water 

Hot Wash recirculated PBW

Hot Rinse Spray water

Cool Rinse Recirculated water

Hot Wash recirculated Acid

Hot rinse spray

cool rinse recirculated

To add - My test still has been nothing more than a 15.5 gallon stainless beer keg with some different columns used based on what I've been making. I've always hot rinsed after every run and have not ever had any buildup. I've ran a bit of PBW in it once or twice just to be sure there wasn't anything hiding in there, have never even done a citric wash on it. I just want to get a good solid SOP in place for this new unit to keep it in top shape for years to come.

Thanks for all the input. I think I'll pick up a 500g of a few varieties and do some playing around. This is the fun part!

ThermoWorks works for me https://www.thermoworks.com/reference-thermometer/

New still is on its way and I'm wondering about its initial cleaning and then a regular cleaning regimen for it. I've scanned the related info here on the forums but didn't find exactly what I'm seeking. Most posts were related to an all copper still. Mine is mostly stainless but has a copper whiskey helmet on it. Most of the threads warned of using a caustic on the copper and suggested PBW . For the initial cleaning I was planning to do a rinse/PBW/rinse/citric acid/rinse/done and then perform a similar regimen periodically. Will this be enough to clean it out and passivate as well. Does this seem like a good plan for this setup? 

Nicely put together. With this level of detail put into this early phase I'm sure you will have no problem making a go of it.

Without knowing anything about your location, it seems that local zoning tends to be the biggest hurdle. Some local issues tend to be meeting fire code if your local authorities having jurisdiction require it, having accessible utilities applicable to meet your needs, and waste water and grain disposal. I'd keep a firm eye on those as you look at potential locations. 

Also, Do you have an idea of size of production? This will also dictate your needs for the above mentioned items, as well as help determine your ROI to keep the business afloat. 

Howdy Mike!

I'll be placing an order with Ferm Solutions for some enzymes and yeasts. I'd like to try a few of their yeasts while experimenting with a few whisky recipes. Does anyone have experience with their yeast strains and have any input on the flavor profiles or mouth feel each gives? I spoke with a Ferm Solutions rep and all they can really say is that their 927 is their most common bourbon yeast and 921 is similar.

I'll be doing bourbon mashes with varying amounts of wheat. Other than trial an error, any input?

They have got to be losing customers left and right lately!

Thanks for the reminder, I do plan to mount it vertically. I'll look into some type of inline strainer as well.

11 hours ago, matren92 said:

My wife received a thermometer in a set along with this coffee maker. I didn't get steamed up and just use it

spammy post there matren