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kleclerc77 last won the day on November 11 2020

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  1. Would it make sense if they were shooting for a lower starting gravity back then? I've heard that was the case back in the day. I've thought about how I'd achieve full conversion without enzymes, and a significantly lower starting gravity - so less grain for the same volume of mash would definitely be my starting point. More for viscosity reasons than anything. I'd still shoot for ~15% mb in this hypothetical scenario though. Just a thought!
  2. The title says it all! We are looking to buy a pallet or so (500-1500 bottles total) of colored glass. Ideally cork closures as opposed to screw top. Ideally they would be 750ml, but are willing to consider really anything 375ml+. Any color, or frosted/opaque would also do. The only stuff I can find is wine/champagne bottles, and they are too clunky. If anyone has extra glass fitting this description they are willing to let go of, please let me know! Send me a PM here, I've noticed my email gets sniped by spammers when I posted it on here in the past. Thank you! PS have fun in Vegas for me!
  3. What sticks out to me right away is your pitch temp. Even though 35C is within the HT's temp range, you want to start way lower. Think more in the 26C range. You didn't note the ferment's temperature as time went on, which without active cooling I'm sure exceeds the HT's temperature range. Reaching 35C towards the end of the ferment may not be the worst, but starting there is what strikes me as the problem here.
  4. You don't need to cook wheat to 75C. 65C-70C is closer to the gel temp for wheat. You also need to actively cool it to yeast pitch temp as quickly as possible. I would personally shoot for ~27C. Leaving it overnight to cool before pitching yeast is a recipe for an infection that the yeast will have no chance of competing against.
  5. It doesn't need to be neutral. We make our gin base out of our rye mashes that we distill a bit differently than the stuff we put into barrels. We take the proof up to the light whiskey range, but not all the way up to neutral. We love what the rye base offers to our gin. That being said, it is definitely not a "dry" gin. I would start with a neutral base if you were aiming for a London / dry gin.
  6. While it's always cool to source local ingredients, juniper in the states can be questionable. There tends to be the a lot of the unmistakably ammonia (think cat pee) forward berries around, and needless to say, they create an offensive gin. I've seen it a few times with distilleries that only meant the best by harvesting their botanicals locally. That scared me straight into sourcing juniper berries from places who know what they're doing. You'd have to be super confident in your juniper ID to pick them yourself in the states. They'll hybridize like crazy too, so half the time I have no idea what I'm looking at. We use an herb supplier we trust, and they tend to come from Italy/Macedonia. The regional differences @Cosmic.Distiller mentioned are very interesting, I'd like to dig more into that one of these days. I only get to make gin once a year though, so who knows when that will be!
  7. Good choice! Their enzymes are workhorses, and we're happy with the yeast as well. Not to mention, they (Dr Pat Heist) are continually helpful in helping with your process and any flaws you may have in it. That being said, they haven't had a whole lot to say in the differences between their yeasts that are suggested for grain fermentations. We've only been laying stuff down for three years, and my palate isn't as fine tuned as it needs to be to determine those differences on my own, so I haven't done much experimenting at all really. We use the 927 for both our rye and bourbon ferments and are happy with the results. We pitch and keep the ferments at 80F +/- 5 degrees for primary fermentation, then double pot distill. Batch distillation vs. continuous distillation will most likely be the biggest difference between us little guys and them, pre barrel anyway. I bet Slick will have some great info on this subject, he knows his shit. I feel like this thread is gonna be a good one.
  8. They sell camlock -> NPT adapters like this https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/2-female-part-b-camlock-x-2-male-npt-pipe-thread?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7O-Z2OaK-wIV4PbjBx1MSgXbEAQYAiABEgJZzPD_BwE . Then you can get NPT -> TC adapters from somewhere like Glacier Tanks. You may need to get 2" NPT -> 2" TC https://www.glaciertanks.com/tri-clamp-nps-and-npt-adapters-22mp-g200-200.html then a 2"TC -> 1.5" TC reducer https://www.glaciertanks.com/tri-clamp-fittings-concentric-reducers-b3114mp-g200-150.html.
  9. Is that too big for Jesse to make for you?
  10. Is there anything wrong with the unit? Who is the manufacturer? We're very interested in buying a system like this for post distillation dewatering. Thank you!
  11. We reduce the proof slowly over 4-8 weeks as well. We make larger proof reductions initially, while slowing down the proof reduction once nearing the 100 proof mark. ~One proof degree per reduction from then on. Some suggest doing small reductions all the way, which probably wouldn't hurt. An important aspect of water additions is good agitation. We mix with a paddle while water is being added, and multiple times per day for the following week or so to encourage proper incorporation. It may be hard to get proper agitation/mixing if you are proofing in the barrel.
  12. We found replacement hoses for ours on one of these sites, I forget which. We were in the same boat looking for a longer length, and we went with whichever one gave us the best price on that length. https://www.homebrewit.com/products/enolmaster-pharmapress-hose-replacement-set?variant=17541712052314&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1-r-1rqR-AIVg5SGCh21MgZKEAQYASABEgJC-_D_BwE https://www.winemakersdepot.com/Spirits-Oil-Suction-Hose-Set-for-Enolmaster-and-Enolmatic-P1463.aspx
  13. A picture of of this phenomenon would go a long way as well.
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