fldme

It might oxidize and Help the taste some. oxidation of wine and low wines which have been distilled are two different animals. In spirits, you want to and there is no reson not to encourage oxidation.

In 48 hours you should be done fermentation.

Why would you need to do that? Are you adding sulfites? Rum does not need sulfites.

Be sure to get good dry, good test weight corn. Flaked will never make good whiskey. And if it did, it would be too costly.

Why would you use a lab to proof? You never would be able to get it proofed down right if you have to wait on a lab to do it.

You never use super heated steam.

It needs calcium to work right has been my observation. I use calcium carbonate. As far as adding the backset to the cooker, that is fine, but you do not need much. So be careful.

There is a high temp alpha amylase that Breaks down corn starch to is does not get too thick.

That is why the big boys still sour mash it works. Put a little in cooker and up to fifty percent in fermenter. I doubt it would keep refrigerated. Needs to be fresh everyday.

If you have your ph at around 4 and enough nutrients, set your fermenter at 95 and it will keep its own heat. If it takes longer to consume all the sugar than2 days, something is bad off. You should never have to keep a rum ferment warm.

Always use fresh backset. While low ph will keep it fresh a couple days, beyond that, I would not use it.

31 posts, and not one mention, unless I missed it about failing on account of poor product. I see this being a huge problem. A lot of bad product is being made. You can fill a lot of store shelves and make money. But if the customer does not like the product, he will not buy it again. It happened with craft brewing and I see it happening with microdistilling.

Continuous distillation is done by steam injection.

Secondary conversions known to happen until all the sugars are consumed. Not much is written on it.

No need to hold any longer than 15 minutes. No need to to iodine test either. As long as you do not raise your temp after the 15 mins you will continue to convert in the fermenter.

Kelvin cooperage is the only reliable supplier I know of.

160 will kill your malt. Malt will not drop your temp as bad as other grains. Add it at 150. Hold it for say 15 mins. Then I would cool it off with fresh backset or water to 90 and yeast it.

For that size batch, I would try 100 ml. Add at no higher than about 120 degrees. Use about a cup of calcium carbonate, and get your ph to around five. If using just rye and malt. Add malt first, then rye at 120. Hold it maybe 15 mins. If adding corn, still do this step first, then take temp up to add your corn.

Add some backset to it.

Here is my two cents. The amount of cider you say you will have is Roughly 8000 gallons. That is not huge. If to had even say a 300 to 400 gallon pot still and a couple or three 1000 gallon fermenters. If all your apples are ready at one time, and I would imagine you to have at least a couple varieties each ripening at different times, if you run let's say a 4 day ferment, you should easily be able to handle that amount of cider. Anything less than that, you will be hard pressed to keep the lights on when sales start anyway. You are only talking about depending on the Brix of the cider 800 proof gallons. If it is good, you will want more than that.

Have you ever toured a large distillery or do you kow any of the actual people running those plants? Obviously not because what you are saying is far from true. There is more craft in lets say four roses for instance than most micros operating today. They use high quality grain, use old techniques such as using lactic bacteria to sour their yeast mashes, cultivate their own yeast, use tradional stills and aging procedures etc. Yes bourbon has a max distillation proof. 160. Not one plant making bourbon today I know of runs over 140. Still proof is higher than it used to be, but I know nobody running over 140. What makes you think they use continuous stripping stills to get as close as they can to 160? A continuous beer still can produce flavorful spirit as low as 100 proof. Yes, there are chemical engineers working in the big plants, so what, they have a degree. But in most plants you have generations of families often times desendants of the original founders as is the case with the Beam family at their families namesake distilleries. And they are not all there just for show. Most of the micro distillers think ill of the big guys. This is a bad thing. Get to know some of the people running these plants, they are all friendly and guess what, most are supportive of the small distillery movement, but are concerned about the quality of the products being turned out. And most will. Be glad to help you figure anything out trouble wise out might run into. I may be wrong, but from your post above, you have no idea what you are talking about. And one should never criticize what they do not know.

Acidulated malt wil drop the ph, it you miss out on the other good stuff from using backset. Maine thing being nutrients. Foam control and continuity from batch to batch.

Once the barrels are up to temp, they hold heat so good the heater does not have to un near as much.

Where such places as Canada, where it stays cold most of the year, it makes sense . Size the heating equipment right and it will not be a huge cost.

You add nothing and come in at 4. I would stil add backset, it will provide a buffer, holding the ph. Good clean backset is not really too acidic. A good rule of thumbe of 30 percent backset. Screened of all solids is the best.