fldme
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Everything posted by fldme
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If you cook a concentrated enough mash, you can cool it and thin it out with cool fresh backset. Water can do it too, but setback is much better.
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If you are crushing fruit, any drain will plug, put an air line in the drain pipe so you can blow the plug out
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In my experience you want some vortex to draw the grain into the mash. Internal coils for coiling and direct injection is the best way. If you have high pressure steam, a jet cooker is best for corn.
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You will take half the day to heat up with that boiler. You need at least 750k btu's.
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You will need cooling coils.
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In good gin, this is normal, it is removed by filtration prior to bottling.
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Bourbon distilleries have traditionally used open top. Why would oxygen cause a problem?
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Certified craft -- setting the record straight
fldme replied to Melkon Khosrovian's topic in General Discussion
Their are a lot of so called craft distillers buying juice from those folks. It amazes me this craft thing. Very few craft distilleries I have seen are what I would call craft at all. So why even worry about it. There is more craft in the big distilleries in ky than there is in I would venture to say 98 percent of all micro distilleries operating today. -
Hammermills are the way to go, I would even use one if lautering. Grind size also is dependent on still type, continuous I find likes a finer grind, pot can stand coarser grind.
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18 percent is more than plenty. 5 percent is enough. Unless you are taking the mash temp up after mashing and killing the enzymes so you get no secondary conversion in the fermenter.
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In all seriousness, I have been to way too many micros where the day was filled with drinking. I have heard this from others as well. Drinking has no place in the production area of a distillery. If you have to taste the distillate to run a still, you have no business running one. A still is run by sight and smell.
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If I do a mash like that, I just bring water up to 120 f and hold it while adding rye. I use a beta glucanase. Add it, get you rye in hold it about fifteen mins, the slowly bring temp up to 145. Hold about fifteen mins, drop to fermentation temp and ferment. I shoot for 12 brix on a beer still, 15 on a pot. The warmer you ferment, the spicier the profile.
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I watched this rye as it was grown for us. It was raw rye. I have several books that reference it as well. I have a hunch that this was how PA pure rye was made originally.
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Ph of 4, use citric to drop it first time, dunder the runs after that.
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Ferment at 90 degrees, 20 brix, good strong yeast, and to start add a pound per 500 gallons of cap, 12 hours in, another pound. 48 hours you should be done. You can distill then or age it a day or so for more esters. Set the fermenter no higher than 4.
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Not just yet, I can say that in trials it outperforms visco ferm hands down.
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There is not a big difference flavor wise. And good unmalted rye will convert on its own, no added enzymes needed.
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Their may be a better product than viscoferm coming very soon.
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The Troubling Success of Tito's Vodka (Forbes)
fldme replied to TetonDistillery's topic in General Discussion
Good for him, he must be making it himself, we just assumed he was not. -
Xpress fill is a pain.
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I would not waste my money on the DMA thirty five, put that money into the other listed items, and you need a bigger still.
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I would use white if available. If not, good clean, dry, about 12 percent moisture and at least sixty pound bushel weight will work. Get a moisture meter and bushel weight hand scale. You may have to try several farmers to get what you want. I have found that air drying or a continuous dryer gets you the best corn. I have seen some corn damn near roasted. So try to hit that 12 percent mark.
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4 gallons a minute on a small beer still is slow enough, I cannot imagine fed one 4 gph.
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Also, the use of thinset or backset in a fementer is critical to flavor production of bourbon and rye whiskey. It adds calcium and nitrogen to the mash that help the yeast do their job.
