whiskeytango

1 minute ago, BoydLabBuck said:

Has anyone confirmed whether the TTB is on board with this?  I'm also considering this as an idea to reduce initial capital investment, but reading through the DSP regulations yesterday has me wondering if it's technically allowed.  The CFR made it sound like mashing must be done under the DSP.

I know of a few people mashing off site in brewery then bringing the wart to the dsp and pitching yeast. Until yeast is added its just cooked grain.  Anyone can cook grain no license necessary.  But when you pitch yeast its then on the books.  

but iv been wrong before  

Just now, indyspirits said:

Oh shit. I totally missed the part about the matched mash cooker.  You're sized just fine.  We run our at 10 PSI w/ our pressurtrol set to +/- 2 degrees

Cool thanks..  

6 minutes ago, indyspirits said:

The first question is, "Why??". You're going to be WAY over capacity which will cause no end of short-cycling problems -- this wont harm the boiler, it's just inefficient as hell. Also, it's unlikely (and way about my maths skills) that your jacket is designed to "pass through" 1M BTU/hr of heat so there's that.  Do you a mash cooker or hot liquor tank you're heating?  Generally speaking,  1KBTU/hr will get you about a 1-hour heat up time.  Talk do your boiler people and ask them.  We have a 600 liter still and our boiler is about 270K BTU on the output side. Heat up in about 50 minutes. 

The why would be because the manufacture specked out 600 btu to run each piece of equipment. So if we run both we are at 1200 btu no?  

But back to my question.  What is your normal operations pressure on your system?  

What PSI do you guys usually run your boilers at?  Looking to get a 1.5 mill btu boiler to run a 450 gallon still and matching mash cooker.  It operates between 10 and 15 psi just wondering if that will be sufficient? 

7 minutes ago, Tom Lenerz said:

There are some more issues here too, like how the still is setup, hybrid vs pure pot, how clean your cuts are, etc...

Our real world numbers, we run a 30 gallon beer (30 gallons of volume per bushel) so our mash varies from 7.5% for rye to 9% for bourbon. We do 500 gallons a day on a hybrid, single pass, and we see between 3.8 to 4.5 pg/bushel of hearts. So 16.66 bushels per day, results in 63 to 75 PGs, or a barrel and change a day.

Running pure pot double distilled, we see about 70% of the mash PGs make it to hearts.

Yeah i know there are more variables, really almost to many to consider all the options,   Just trying to get a good idea as to if a 450 gallons still properly ran with a decent mash could yield 53 gallons or so of 120 proof 

Ok so a pretty general question but just a show of hand or posts with answers.  

Can some of you tell me

1 - Still size/mash volume 

2 - % alcohol of said wash

3 - total gallons collected at 120 proof 

Just trying to get an idea of say a 450 gallon still that gets filled with a 10% wash will result in X amount of 120 proof to put in a barrel.  I want to match my still size to a barrel or a little over a day production. Just done want to end up a gallon short on my runs. 

I know the simple math on this says the 10% wash will yield in theory 45 gallons of pure alcohol but we all know it doesn't work like that.  So my guess is that it will actually yield closer to 45 gallons of ~ 160 p that will need ~15 gallons of water to get it into the 120 range.   So my 450 gallon run will fill a fair amount over a barrel.  

Any real world answers appreciated.

What was your timeline like?

I am looking to move as well.  Anyone move lately that can update us as to a estimated time line. 

I say just go for it, no one is watching! 

43 minutes ago, Shindig said:

Thanks @whiskeytango but was hoping @Silk City Distillers Would share too ! 

But @Shindig what about my problems?  I got real issues...  Lol     

@Silk City Distillers I'm trying to add some air to the wash now if that still doesn't work ill give DAP a try 

Ok here are some more info 

2 hours ago, Shindig said:

Would you share your temps,brix,yeast pitch rate and nutrients?  thanks!

Brix is around 14 (max)

PH starts around 5.4 and then drops quickly to about 3.6

Temp I'm just going off the directions on the yeast to to re hydrate as specified then fermenting out at bout 78-82 degrees 

for nutrients in using the fermaid O or whatever its called in the amount specified on the bag, 

the lalamand distillamax SR is a rum yeast,  Seems just as slow as the EC1118

Its actually cain juice (liquid). 

Brix is around 14 

PH starts around 5.4 and then drops quickly to about 3.6

Temp I'm just going off the directions on the yeast to to re hydrate as specified then fermenting out at bout 78-82 degrees 

I am working on a rum agricole wash and i am finding its very slow to ferment. I have tried a few different yeast strains (ec1118 and a lalamand distillamax SR) adding nutrients as well.  its just very slow like weeks to ferment out.  

I am obviously missing something here, any ideas? 

Im having a hard time getting a strait rhum agricole to ferment out. Iv tried a few different yeast strains as well a nutrients and they just go super slow. Any obvious things i could be missing?

Way more impressive than the google search.  

Well google says your a Anglican Pastor so not sure how much that will help your cause.  Might just want to put up a resume. 

For once i can answer Davids question.  I feel so SMRT   

 Idaho Liquor Supplier Representative In Idaho in order to get a general listing you have to have a rep that lives in the state.  You can sell to Idaho without this but you will be special order.  This usually means one case at at time when requested by someone, but a listing is pallets and they stock you in all or most of the state run stores. 

Are you allowed to go over at all?  I was under the impression you could go over up to .15 as long as you payed that extra on your tax filling. 

The difference between 80 proof and 81 proof in the eyes of the TTB is a fairly large error. 

As Huffy said,  Proof can be changed without submitting new label approval.  The only thing to consider here is that all you proofs fall within the allowable limit,  IE you cant bottle whiskey at 60 proof and still call it whiskey,  It has to fall within the allowable limits for that type of spirt but  80 proof on one bottle and 81.5 on the next one is allowable.  You will have to keep this I'm  mind when calculating your Taxes.  

Never more than a day or two

Never is a bold statement, My last one took almost 2 months, No problems with how it was submitted thats just how long it took to get processed.

Is anyone using a on demand type system instead of the traditional liquor tank? Seems like it would be much more efficient.

Any concerns or comments as to why or why not?

There are 3 basic Vodka models :

Craft Vodka brands boils down (no pun intended) to one simple phrase, "where's the column" ? If your column is in your facility, and you do your own fermentation or buy it from a brewery, then you are a craft vodka distiller who's product should realistically demand the price and respect of savy craft engaged consumers.

Mainstream Vodka demand and price points are merely a reflection of the success or failure of each individual marketing budget.

Potemkin Craft Vodka brands that re-bubble previous 190p GNS through 160p stills pretending to make nonexistent head cuts, fall somewhere in between.

You forgot the 5th type, those who buy GNS add local water put into a bottle and have a local made product. Its even better when said distillery has a "master distiller" yet they have no god dam still.

kills me every tim.