jeffw

You can get a tri-clamp mesh sock at a lower mesh and then that problem disappears. Assuming you are just talking about protecting the pump. GW Kent has one that I have been using. I tried going 100 mesh and had a similar problem, just gave up and went to 40 (I think).

Who are you buying 50 gallon barrels from? I see you said ISC on the 53s but you have 50s with 62.5 pg listed on your sheet. Cheers, Jeff

I heard that the shear pumps couldn’t handle corn (though it was suggested if you soak it for a few days it could). That threw that out the window. The shear mixer sounded cool, but when I spoke to the company rep from the artisan article they just didn’t have the knowledge of our industry to get the requirements dialled in to my satisfaction.

Snap 50 is also not precise enough. The snap 50 is .1 v/v%, they told me it needs to be .01 v/v%, though I think it would only need to be .05 v/v. Nothing cheap and easy, cough up money or use a hydrometer and thermometer.

That lab still is pretty bad ass. What is pricing like for that?

Mash Bill: 1400 pounds corn, 300 pound wheat, 200 pounds rye, 150 pounds malt; 800 gallons of water and 350 g of calcium chloride, 500ml sebHTL, 200ml sebFlo, 300ml sebGL. At 35 ppm, it seems like the calcium in the grain would bump you up to around 80, which should be fine. I guess I have been doing it because I would when home brewing to balance chlorides to sulfates. In brewing, however, the boil would dissipate most of the chlorides (I think). In distillation I suppose it might come over as a medicinal taste (though I haven't noticed this). I don't think bumping up the calcium would be necessary (maybe even harmful), just checking with smarter people...

What are people using to bump up their calcium? People bumping up this number or fermenting as is? Local water is 35 ppm calcium. I run a sediment/carbon filter before mash cooker. I have bumped up with calcium chloride and not and can't say I see any difference one way or the other.

Thanks guys! All of that sounds about like what I was planning. I have been making bourbon and rye for several years, but I haven't played with yeast strains in a while. I like the idea of reexamining my procedures and trying some new strains here and there. Started off with 15 and 30 gallon barrels, but now that I am using 53s exclusively, the oak dominates less and it makes me more curious to play around with yeast strains.

You have a temperature range you like on the Nottingham and s-04 (high temp above the list range)? I have never played with an ale yeast because they are ferment so low temp wise. That said, doing a bunch of trial 120 or so gallon wash for malt (lautered), so keeping temp down should be pretty easy. Cheers!

What yeast strain do people like for fruity esters for bourbon and or malt whiskey?

Not sure on those alternatives, but perhaps you can either find a barrel broker for new American oak, so that they are taking full containers and shipping is more reasonable. Otherwise, I would consider using French oak as well, as it is pretty close to you and you cannot call it bourbon anyway, so maybe embrace this difference.

Um, I don't recommend he adds backset from those past fermentations...

How well do the Impeller pumps work for CIP applications? I use a centrifugal, but my Letina's are so low to the ground it is a PITA in terms of priming if I want to use the fancy (though too tall) pump cart I bought with it. I have tried my Air Diaphragm pump, but it really doesn't get the spray ball moving as well with the pulsing action from the pump. Curious what people are using and how they have their CIP setup?

I have to agree with Silk City. Unless you want to sell out of your DSP and do tourism, I wouldn't bother starting with the production facility. There are so many DSP in the US right now that I am sure you can find one that will make the product you want, or even let you do it on their equipment, that I don't think it is worth the investment and starting small.

I have bought some from Woodland Foods (25 lb) sizes, but it is only one source. I think it is Bulgarian but I can't remember off of the top of my head. Cleaner than a lot of the other juniper bags I have bought elsewhere.

Always have had good experiences with Rocky Mountain barrel. I have only ever had one leak, but I never even contacted them about it. I think they would tell you how to fix it, not necessarily switch it out for you. I believe they were starting to do direct shipments from Kentucky. I would imagine you could get some directly from distilleries too that are closer to you as freight would be high to California.

Pics Silk? The poly stand up to those temps?

Presumably without the bourbon?

What are people using for boiler chemicals? Our original chemical company is not longer around and just ran out of chemicals a little while ago. Got a quote from a new company but seemed crazy high that a 5 gallon pail is quote for $800. I see Chem World listing boiler chemicals for $140 for 5 gallons. Anyone have a go to source and recommendation on what to use? I figure I can build a flow meter linked to a raspberry pi board that will auto-dose on water usage, but not sure precisely what chemical to use. All help is appreciated. I don't want to neglect one of my most expensive pieces of equipment, but don't feel like getting ripped off either. Cheers, Jeff

Seems like it might be worth putting fill proof or average fill proof gallons. Just a thought.

When will you have that up and running? Single pass with heads cut?

If the return is cold water, see if the float in your steam trap is stuck...I had that once. Installed a new still and must have done something to the steam trap.

Do you have condensate in your steam line backing up? Open one of the strainer valves in your return line and see if you have steam or just water...If not this, do you have pressure building up in there? Pressure gauge? If you hit this thing with that much steam and it isn't a problem in the steam piping, I would expect you have a lot of pressure in the still.

Dehner, My only issue with using a IBC Tote as a fermenter would be that I can never fully empty one of those things. I use them for low wine storage and there is always 1-1.5 gallons in the damn thing after trying to empty it. Maybe flip it over? What do you do?

Hey Paul, I guess I didn't state it but I do put a fraction of the amount of water in already. I am not trying to drop from malt temp, but rather 120 or so to 90. I am just sending in city water though, not chilled. If I was pumping 35 degree water than I am not sure I would need an external heat exchanger at all.